Blackout-Powell Native 24p Patch - GH1 FTW!!!

Tried the Vibrant setting this morning, same result. Recording halts after 5-10 seconds. BTW the recording is of leafy poplar stand, but also have had the same problem with scenes that were much less demanding and comparable to the vacation shots. Tried covering the lens for 10 seconds then record the subject, camera stops after another 5 seconds. Tried going handheld, camera kept rolling for 20 seconds. Tried recording on tripod very undemanding scene with only 1/5 of the top left hand corner filled with leafy trees, recording stopped after 20-30 seconds. If I filled the lens 100% with the same undemanding scene the camera didn't stop. There were many very demanding scenes during our vacation and never got a card speed write error. Guess I'll have to find a PC to format the card and see if that helps.

Thanks

GMan
 
You can format the card right in your camera no need to use a PC.

If course, but the PC format first removes ALL the folders and any residual PAL/NTSC connections. I find i need to do this for error free changes from PAL to NTSC recording.
 
I definitely enjoyed the patch, but I'm keeping my GH13. Thanks for all the fish. Hey, I thought you preferred the GH13? Don't tell me you have changed your mind.
 
Hi I'm new to this and just wanted to clarify. If I use this patch on the PAL version the FHD 25p native files are in a 50i container.
 
I got a problem and i was hoping you guys can help. I did the patch and followed the instructions which updated the camera perfectly fine, however @ the end of it all i cant get manual mode to work and i cant confirm if the video is recording @ the correct bitrate. Is there any other instructions or manuals i can read.

Thanks in advance.
 
Folks,
I installed the Blackout-Powell patch a few weeks ago, and I'm very happy except for a 20% failure rate while shooting high detail subjects in very bright sun (ave. F/stop was f/8). I improved my passing rate somewhat by adding ND until I was shooting at f3.5, and under-exposing (as suggested on this forum). However, the occasional failure was a major bummer, and wasted a lot of time.

I wonder if I can improve the reliability even more by dialing down the bitrate or quality, or is the reliability a function of some other variable? I'm quite willing to go with 10% less quality if it means eliminating those failures.

FYI, I'm using FHD 24p, and my card is a freshly formatted Sandisk Extreme class 10 30mb/s.

rgds/ RandyQuimpo
 
Folks,
I installed the Blackout-Powell patch a few weeks ago, and I'm very happy except for a 20% failure rate while shooting high detail subjects in very bright sun (ave. F/stop was f/8). I improved my passing rate somewhat by adding ND until I was shooting at f3.5, and under-exposing (as suggested on this forum). However, the occasional failure was a major bummer, and wasted a lot of time.

I wonder if I can improve the reliability even more by dialing down the bitrate or quality, or is the reliability a function of some other variable? I'm quite willing to go with 10% less quality if it means eliminating those failures.

FYI, I'm using FHD 24p, and my card is a freshly formatted Sandisk Extreme class 10 30mb/s.

rgds/ RandyQuimpo

One way to increase reliability if a particular shot is crashing is to underexpose as you said. I've found that underexposing by a full stop or more will bring the shot back to safety. Also, 720p60 recording failures (at least on my camera) still leave a usable file behind (it just stops recording) whereas 1080p24 failures crash the camera and leave an empty (0 KB) file on the card.
 
hi CColton,
My big problem actually was the harshness of the sun and my lack of sufficient ND because I was shooting 24P at shutter speed 1/50. I already had an ND8 on my cam, and the only way I got the exposure down was to stack a CPL on it. Even then one of my shots was slightly over exposed. Vignetted slightly on a few shots, but I guess thats the price I had to pay in order to make it work.

But I tell ya, the image quality of many of the shots was absolutely stunning. First time I have ever shot in 1080/24P - now I am wondering if I should shoot all my videos in this format from now on.

In the meantime, I'm hoping someone can tell me if dialing the Image quality down will result in an improvement in shooting %, and of course what the right settings for dialing-down are...

rgds/ RandyQ
 
hi CColton,
My big problem actually was the harshness of the sun and my lack of sufficient ND because I was shooting 24P at shutter speed 1/50. I already had an ND8 on my cam, and the only way I got the exposure down was to stack a CPL on it. Even then one of my shots was slightly over exposed. Vignetted slightly on a few shots, but I guess thats the price I had to pay in order to make it work.

But I tell ya, the image quality of many of the shots was absolutely stunning. First time I have ever shot in 1080/24P - now I am wondering if I should shoot all my videos in this format from now on.

In the meantime, I'm hoping someone can tell me if dialing the Image quality down will result in an improvement in shooting %, and of course what the right settings for dialing-down are...

rgds/ RandyQ

Personally I'd be afraid of changing the bitrates too much because lpowell also customized other options in the patch so that they all work together correctly. Best investment I've made in the past 6 months was a variable ND filter. Goes from 2 stops of ND up to essentially opaque. I can shoot 1/50 at f1.7 in direct sunlight and still get correct exposure (or underexpose if necessary) and get beautiful depth of field even in bright light. That would be my recommendation.
 
24 is the film standard in the United States. 25 does not exist in any common broadcast system or cinema system in the US, to my knowledge.
But this is not film, it's video, digital video. Furthermore, if you broadcast 24p material, it will never be aired at 24 frames/sec.
The only place where you'll see actual 24p material as 24 frames/sec is in some older cinemas. Most have already left the 24p format for higher rates, even those in the US.
 
But this is not film, it's video, digital video. Furthermore, if you broadcast 24p material, it will never be aired at 24 frames/sec.
The only place where you'll see actual 24p material as 24 frames/sec is in some older cinemas. Most have already left the 24p format for higher rates, even those in the US.

True, I misspoke on the broadcast part. Those cinemas are still projecting 24p sources though - they repeat frames to make it more pleasant to watch. Most people in the US shoot 24 when they want a "film look." (again, this is my understanding, I don't claim to be an authority).
 
True, I misspoke on the broadcast part. Those cinemas are still projecting 24p sources though - they repeat frames to make it more pleasant to watch. Most people in the US shoot 24 when they want a "film look." (again, this is my understanding, I don't claim to be an authority).
You may be able to do research and find out if humans are 'used to' looking at 24 fps and experience it as 'better' as a result, but I doubt that the human retina will respond in such an advanced manner to what it has seen before. It still prefers to see as true to life video as possible, which is why 1080p50 and 1080p60 are so popular and appreciated now.

As far as I know, the only reason 24 frames/sec was once established long ago was that it was the fastest they could reliably pull film through the projector gate. Before that, the limit was 18 fps, which looked like too much flicker to most human viewers.

If you ever need to publish for PAL video, you need to somehow convert 24 fps to 25 fps, which is a pain in the rear! I still don't believe that 24 fps somehow looks magically brilliant as opposed to 25 fps, which is also easier to multiply and use if you ever need Europe to back your product..
 
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