T2i Magic Lantern for 550D in progress!

does anyone think that the qscale settings make a difference as far as image quality goes? i tested it the other night and couldnt see much of a difference if any between having it turned off and at -15.
 
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paulgandersman said:
im using the one thats linked to here on this page:
http://magiclantern.wikia.com/wiki/550D

they don't have the latest file up on the actual tutorial? also how do i go about installing the new build?
Click to expand...

that's an old build, look on this thread for a newer one, there are at least a couple of releases every week

the zip file you download includes a very nice manual, installing instructions, and everything else you need; read it all, then install, then enjoy
 
What do you have to do again to replace the other ML that's on the card? Just drag the file (magiclantern.fir) and onto the card and it should replace the older one?

For the cinema crop marks, what aspect ratio is that?
Is it (2.35:1) or is it (2.39:1)?
 
magiclantern.fir is only the installer. After your first ML install, you have to delete it and forget about it.

Copy the other files from the zip.
 
a1ex said:
magiclantern.fir is only the installer. After your first ML install, you have to delete it and forget about it.
Copy the other files from the zip.
Click to expand...

Oh, I think I meant the autoexc.

So, what should be on the card, and what can I just delete?
 
Sorry, I'm a little confused. How do i go about getting my sd card to show up on my mac? On the left I don't see it show up as it does in the youtube tutorial when i plug my t2i into the computer. I read the directions but maybe I missed something. Do i need some sort of reader to write to my card? Or can i do this by just plugging my camera into the computer via usb.
 
I am very impressed compared to the last old ML I had. Wow!

Whats the aspect ratio on the Cinemascope crop mark?
So how long can I record for continuously? Im testing it out, so far its been going on for 17min, which is a great sign
 
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To clear stuff from the screen, press MENU twice. I've changed the behavior of ClrScr because it was deleting the record dot (and sometimes other useful info from Canon menus).

Blinky logo: turn LCD remote off.

For focus peaking indicator, I can replace it with a small bar (like the ones from movie AF).

QScale is useful for a couple of things. One: recording more than 12 minutes. Two: recording on cheap cards (class 4 or even class 2). Three: get less compression artifacts if you plan to do heavy edits on the video (I don't use that).

Can you do some tests to see whether turning the screen off actually result in more battery life?

The delay for redrawing can be changed by editing magic.cfg.
 
You want to get rid of the Canon rectangle and I've tweaked all the graphics algorithms to leave it there?
(the fact that it gets erases by ML menu is actually a bug :P )

I can remove the focus peaking indicator (now that focus graph does more or less the same job).

Yes, a test with a milliammeter would be very good, if anyone has the possibility of doing it.
 
I don't like the canon rectangle either, could we make a poll to try to prevent it from coming back from the world of the dead?

about the cinemascope ratio: my cropmarks are 2.35:1 (720x306), the one that comes with ML is 2.37:1 (720x304) (if you believe, as I do, that anything that is behind the cropmark lines is supposed not to end up in the final image)
 
This is less than 1% error :)

Some users like the Canon rectangle; I had to add the option of centering it with SET. In standard Canon FW, the Trash button would have centered it (but that's already taken over by ML).

P.S. If you ask an enginer about the value of Pi, he will say "It's about 3" :)
 
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Alex!!! Amazing work as always man the developments have been phenomenal...I just have one request and am not even sure if it is possible. It has to do with the in camera slow motion playback. When ever I shoot a scene and I play it back in slow motion in camera the slow-mo looks amazing. However, in FCP i go to slow it down and cannot achieve the same high quality slow motion as in camera when selecting the slowest speed in camera. The only way to achieve real good super slow-mo is to use Motion or Twixtor and sometimes that even sucks.

So my request is there anyway to either apply or extract the high quality slow motion from the in camera playback to the actual clip so that it has the same quality in camera on a computer for editing? I don't know if this is possible but I am sure a lot of other users would finds this extremely helpful....Thanks again Alex let me know if you have any questions.

-Dave
 
The camera uses exactly the same file as you use in FCP, so the quality is also exactly the same. It probably just looks better on a screen that small.
 
Dave P said:
However, in FCP i go to slow it down and cannot achieve the same high quality slow motion as in camera when selecting the slowest speed in camera. The only way to achieve real good super slow-mo is to use Motion or Twixtor and sometimes that even sucks.
Click to expand...

Dave, Slowing it down in FCP won't get you the smooth slow motion effect you're looking for. You have to use Cinema Tools (comes with your Final Cut Studio) to conform the 59.94 fps to 23.976 fps. A simple explanation is, you're shooting at 60fps, by conforming to 24 fps, you're dividing those 60 frames by 24 to change that one second of footage to 2.5 seconds of 24 fps. (60 = 24 +24 + 12) There should be some tutorials on here on how to do this, or just use google.

Best,
Nik
 
A1ex,

How is ML for the 60D coming? May I jump into the deep end of the pool now?

Thanks for all your efforts. (And please let me know if/how I may help.)
 
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