Best nikon hddslr....

eheath

Well-known member
So I own a fs100 and use about 6 nikon lenses, two of them being G lenses made to operate with nikon bodies. I have a canon 40D, but no canon lenses (sold the kit lens) and im sick of using an adapter (currently dont have one too) and figured i'd sell it and buy a nikon body for taking photos when i want to.

I then realize that nikon had recently came out with 3 cameras with 1080p24, the d3100/d5100/d7000, having this could make for a very decent Bcam.

Now, ive been doing some research and the more i read the more upset i get. I have read the d3100/d5100 are worthless for any serious video because you cant control the exposure in live view. I've also heard the d7000 has a few minor problems (doesn't have true live view? is this true?). I think im definitely getting a nikon body, old or new, so i can take photos, but im trying to decide if i should spend the extra 4-500 dollars for the d7000 over the d3100/d5100/d90/other older nikon body.

I can definitely afford the d7000, but its like "oh if i save 500 on that camera i have 500 for something else" kind of thing. what do you guys think? ive heard ALOT of great things about the photos out of the d7000 too, which makes me lean towards on bailing on the 3100/5100 and going with the d7000, but i just wanna make sure everything i have heard is correct.

thanks,

evan
 
evan,

If I were in your shoes, I wouldn't hesitate to pick up a D7000, great camera for photography with good 1080p24 video. I don't know if it has true live view or not, but what I see on LCD during recording video is what I get. It's really really close if not the same. If you do get a d7000, I would appreciate if you could test intercutting with your fs100?

bumki
 
I have a d7000 and have done film shoots, wedding shoots, and completely pleased with it, 5100 and 3100, no do not compare, don't bother with those, ive used all 3...
 
evan,

If I were in your shoes, I wouldn't hesitate to pick up a D7000, great camera for photography with good 1080p24 video. I don't know if it has true live view or not, but what I see on LCD during recording video is what I get. It's really really close if not the same. If you do get a d7000, I would appreciate if you could test intercutting with your fs100?

bumki

ahh wonderful, this is what i needed to hear. Yeah I definitely will be doing my best to cut it with my fs100 and match it up well.
 
Now, ive been doing some research and the more i read the more upset i get. I have read the d3100/d5100 are worthless for any serious video because you cant control the exposure in live view.
You can control exposure on the D5100, it's just not the way people would like. I saved myself some money by going for the D5100 instead of the D7K and I don't regret it.




 
Since u can afford it, go with the d7000. I use it for weddings and corporate videos. While you're stuck with 24p, it still churn out pretty videos. Downside is that---you have to guess your exposure in video mode---no histogram or zebras.
You can control exposure on the D5100, it's just not the way people would like. I saved myself some money by going for the D5100 instead of the D7K and I don't regret it.
http://vimeo.com/27957894
 
I have read the d3100/d5100 are worthless for any serious video because you cant control the exposure in live view. I've also heard the d7000 has a few minor problems...
The D7000 is almost ideal for video, but it lacks two D5100 features that ruled it out for me:

* D7000's 1080p video mode works only in 24p, no 25p nor 30p.
* D7000's rear LCD does not swivel out, makes low tripod use awkward.

As others have reported, D5100 video modes don't use manual exposure settings. After I looked deeper into this, I concluded that it wouldn't be practical to use Manual mode even if it were available. Here's why:

* Neither D5100 nor D7000 show an exposure histogram in Live View video modes.
* Manual mode doesn't display Live View images at actual exposure levels on the LCD.

Without a histogram or WYSIWYG display, there is no reliable way to determine correct manual exposure. The bottom line is that you must rely on the camera's light meter to set correct video exposure for you. As a result, it's best to shoot in Aperture Priority mode, where you can visually confirm exposure levels on the LCD, and use auto-ISO to set exposure. Once you understand how Nikon cameras work in auto-ISO mode, their semi-manual approach to setting exposure makes sense, and is actually very convenient. Here's how to set the camera up for video shooting:

In the ISO Sensitivity Settings sub-menu:

ISO Sensitivity: 100
Auto ISO Sensitivity Control: ON
Maximum Sensitivity: 3200 (set to max ISO you want the camera to use)
Minimum Shutter Speed: 1/60 (preset to your desired shutter speed)

The twist here is that you use Minimum Shutter Speed to manually preset the video shutter speed you want the camera to use. Since I always shoot at 1/60, I've only needed to set this once. The camera then uses its light meter to automatically set exposure with an ISO between the (minimum) ISO Sensitivity and Maximum Sensitivity presets. However, if the required ISO for a scene lies outside your preset ISO range, the camera will override your Minimum Shutter Speed preset. To correct this, you use the Exposure Compensation button to raise or lower exposure until the shutter returns to your preset speed. Once all settings look good, you use the Exposure Lock button to keep the exposure fixed during your shot.

While this may sound convoluted, it gives you just as much control over exposure as Manual mode would. Here's how you use it in practice:

1. Set your desired aperture.
2. If you prefer, adjust focus in viewfinder.
3. Enter Live View mode and confirm focus.
4. If needed, use Exposure Compensation to set desired shutter speed.
5. Press Exposure Lock button.
6. Press Video Record button to start filming.

Another noteworthy thing about the D5100 is that for still photography, it has the same resolution as the D7000, and produces the same level of image quality. For this purpose, the D5100's only major drawback is that it supports auto-focus only with modern AF-S lenses.
 
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In the ISO Sensitivity Settings sub-menu:

ISO Sensitivity: 100
Auto ISO Sensitivity Control: ON
Maximum Sensitivity: 3200 (set to max ISO you want the camera to use)
Minimum Shutter Speed: 1/60 (preset to your desired shutter speed)

The twist here is that you use Minimum Shutter Speed to manually preset the video shutter speed you want the camera to use. Since I always shoot at 1/60, I've only needed to set this once. The camera then uses its light meter to automatically set exposure with an ISO between the (minimum) ISO Sensitivity and Maximum Sensitivity presets. However, if the required ISO for a scene lies outside your preset ISO range, the camera will override yourMinimum Shutter Speed preset. To correct this, you use the Exposure Compensation button to raise or lower exposure until the shutter returns to your preset speed. Once all settings look good, you use the Exposure Lock button to keep the exposure fixed during your shot.
.

Interesting lpowell... I have been doing it differently but this sounds like it would work as well! Thanks for posting.
 
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I've shot Nikon for decades. I currently use a D7000 for stills. You want to shoot video, get a T2i (or a 60D or whatever) and a lens adapter.

Yes, I know, there are workarounds... but if you don't want to jack around, if you want to choose your ISO, shutter speed and aperture, get a Canon (assuming you have some Nikon lenses with aperture rings that is!) Enjoy 24p, 30p, 60p at 720 for smooth slow motion, all kinds of footage profiles, and all the accessories for shooting video with a Canon. I've got about 8 Nikon zooms and primes with aperture rings, and they all kick ass on my Canon.
 
I have shot many videos with the D7000 and I have still yet to experience what anyone is talking about in regards to not being able to judge exposure from the LCD. Everything I have shot in spot on. If you go to, (Shooting Menu -> Movie Settings -> Manual Movie Settings). You will have manual controls over video and LCD in live view shows exposure, albeit with the caveat that you cannot adjust aperture while in live view. WTF, but ya.
 
I've shot Nikon for decades. I currently use a D7000 for stills. You want to shoot video, get a T2i (or a 60D or whatever) and a lens adapter.

Yes, I know, there are workarounds... but if you don't want to jack around, if you want to choose your ISO, shutter speed and aperture, get a Canon (assuming you have some Nikon lenses with aperture rings that is!) Enjoy 24p, 30p, 60p at 720 for smooth slow motion, all kinds of footage profiles, and all the accessories for shooting video with a Canon. I've got about 8 Nikon zooms and primes with aperture rings, and they all kick ass on my Canon.

I think you missed something, I have an fs100 i can shoot 1080p60 with sound. i wouldnt be buying a d7000 for primarily video, it is going to be used mostly for photo. But, i thought it would be a good idea to buy a nikon photo body that can do 1080p24 so i can use it as a bcam if i wished. I dont need 30p or 60p on a b cam and the whole point of buying a nikon body is to use with my nikon lenses.
 
Workarounds? The D7000 is fully manual in video mode. You can choose ISO, shutter speed or aperture manually. Get a T2i if you want to save money. If you want nice image quality, get the D7000.
 
I didn't read all the posts, kinda lazy that way tonight. A few of things to give some consideration to though as you pick.

The D5100 has dozens of settings where the D7000 has hundreds. The "hundreds" for me and my skill level was a detriment, not an asset. If you are very well versed, the "hundreds" offers you a ton of options. If you are like me, the "hundreds" just amplifies all the ways you can screw it up and not even know it.

The articulating screen...... you won't ever miss it until you don't have it. If you are used to having the screen to enhance your creativity and abilities, you are going to hate not having one on the D7000.

Depending on how important autofocus is to you and which types lenses you already have, that could also make a difference in your decision. The D7000 has a focus motor in the body allowing it to autofocus any AF Nikon lens. The D5100 does not have one in the body and all autofocus is done in the lens. These lenses are the ones designated with a G somewhere in the name.

Coming from the video side, really, the articulating screen is the major difference. Where those of us from the video side have had them forever and have used them often, still shooters haven't. IMO because of that, still shooters haven't had the opportunities to understand what a phenomenal asset they are to a camera.
 
I've shot Nikon for decades. I currently use a D7000 for stills. You want to shoot video, get a T2i (or a 60D or whatever) and a lens adapter.

Yes, I know, there are workarounds... but if you don't want to jack around, if you want to choose your ISO, shutter speed and aperture, get a Canon (assuming you have some Nikon lenses with aperture rings that is!) Enjoy 24p, 30p, 60p at 720 for smooth slow motion, all kinds of footage profiles, and all the accessories for shooting video with a Canon. I've got about 8 Nikon zooms and primes with aperture rings, and they all kick ass on my Canon.

nikon lenses on canon bodies can focus past infinity.

I like the 60D for the flip screen and the right hand only settings operation.
I like the nikon for the compatibility with nikon lenses, better color, and slightly better performance in low-light for crop sensor. Hate the two hand settings operation when changing ISO/WB etc.
 
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