T2i, problem viewing LCD in the SUN, any options?

Cieloent

Well-known member
I know of the Z-Finder but feel that the $300-$400 price range is too expensive. I need to know of anyone that actually owns or is using some type of hood or eye cup for less than $200 that actual works.

I had a shoot this past weekend and a lot of the footage came out bleached as I could not properly adjust because of the blazing sun :angry:


Thank You
 
People with the LCDvf really like them and they fit your budget at right around 200 bucks.
 
Hoodman with the new magnifier eyepiece works for me and I shoot wearing glasses. A little dicey to keep in place but i managed to make it work OK.
 
Hoodman with the new magnifier eyepiece works for me and I shoot wearing glasses. A little dicey to keep in place but i managed to make it work OK.

+1 on the $80 Hoodman. Don't opt for the $20 rubber band. I'm waiting on a hard plastic lcd protector that stays attached via the viewfinder's exterior hinges. If I can attach the Hoodman to the protector, the Hoodman will stay put securely. Another way to save money while making it more comfortable to use is to put a sweat band half-on the eyepiece.
 
How about throwing a black velvet cloth over you head and camera, like in the old days?
That still is how the pros do it!

I know of the Z-Finder but feel that the $300-$400 price range is too expensive. I need to know of anyone that actually owns or is using some type of hood or eye cup for less than $200 that actual works.

I had a shoot this past weekend and a lot of the footage came out bleached as I could not properly adjust because of the blazing sun :angry:


Thank You
 
I'm torn between the hoodman and the sock-loupe. http://www.sock-loupe.com/

Philip Bloom reviewed both and seemed to prefer the sock-loupe

I'm in the same boat as the op, as I gave up trying to film or rather focus in bright sun today.
 
How about throwing a black velvet cloth over you head and camera, like in the old days?
That still is how the pros do it!

Well I'm not sure what a "pro" is but one thing I definitely do not want to do is throw anything black over my head and camera which will attract more heat causing the camera to over heat even faster.
 
Well I'm not sure what a "pro" is but one thing I definitely do not want to do is throw anything black over my head and camera which will attract more heat causing the camera to over heat even faster.

Well, sometimes you have to suffer for your art! Take a look at Ansel Adams below:
AnselAdamsPhoto.Orland.1.jpg
 
I've been pondering over the same lcd issue. Either you can learn to overcompensate knowing it will look darker than it really is. Or what I've done is create a square tube out of thick black paper. I also attached and centered a cheap lense to view through the tube which is about 6" away from the screen. The lense is meant for that precise focal range. It works like a friggin' charm! You only really need it to check the scene value and focus from time to time, so holding it by hand isn't bad. Total cost: $10.
 
I know of the Z-Finder but feel that the $300-$400 price range is too expensive. I need to know of anyone that actually owns or is using some type of hood or eye cup for less than $200 that actual works.

I had a shoot this past weekend and a lot of the footage came out bleached as I could not properly adjust because of the blazing sun :angry:


Thank You

Yeah I couldn't see forking over $400 for an $800 camera body. The Zfinder is probably very good and I may even get one, but this does the job for under 10 bucks till I collect all the lenses I want. Here is the loop I made. If there is one for $80 you should probably get it.

http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?t=204428

I have one good suggestion for you because I don't actually use this loop I made all the time. In fact I only made it to focus manual lenses and not to determine exposure from the view screen.

Try to get your exposure before you go into movie mode.

Use your camera as a light meter.

Look through the lens with the optical viewer in TV mode with your shutter speed set at 1/50th sec then look around and decide what the best exposure is as you would a spot meter.

Then go back to HD movie mode and set it the same.

Trust your light meter, It will be dead on every time once you know your system.

You will find the best exposure will always be predictable.

For example in direct sunlight at 1/50th 100 ISO at 24/25 fps your exposure will fall between f11 and f16.

Learn a system and trust it. That's how Ansel did it.
 
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Yeah I couldn't see forking over $400 for an $800 camera body. The Zfinder is probably very good and I may even get one, but this does the job for under 10 bucks till I collect all the lenses I want. Here is the loop I made. If there is one for $80 you should probably get it.

http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?t=204428

I have one good suggestion for you because I don't actually use this loop I made all the time. In fact I only made it to focus manual lenses and not to determine exposure from the view screen.

Try to get your exposure before you go into movie mode.

Use your camera as a light meter.

Look through the lens with the optical viewer in TV mode with your shutter speed set at 1/50th sec then look around and decide what the best exposure is as you would a spot meter.

Then go back to HD movie mode and set it the same.

Trust your light meter, It will be dead on every time once you know your system.

You will find the best exposure will always be predictable.

For example in direct sunlight at 1/50th 100 ISO at 24/25 fps your exposure will fall between f11 and f16.

Learn a system and trust it. That's how Ansel did it.


Haha, that's great. Thank you for sharing your wisdom and ideas!
 
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