T2i , anyone disappointed ?

get better lenses and give urself time to LEARN. u cant expect to just get it and automatically create magic. but it does have the potential to create magic. accept it for what it is...it is not a video camera...i thought everyone buying these things for vidoe would have known that by now.

Given some time i;m sure you can produce steller results :) Good luck.
 
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jambredz said:
get better lenses and give urself time to LEARN. u cant expect to just get it and automatically create magic. but it does has the potential to create magic. accept it for what it is...it is not a video camera...i thought everyone buying these things for vidoe would have known that by now.

Given some time i;m sure you can produce steller results :) Good luck.
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Exactly. People expect to pick these up and start shooting fantastic images. There is a learning curve...it's called photography. ISO, shutter speed, f-stop, picture styles...so many variables but so much control. These remind me of film cameras way more than video cams. I almost never zoom while in a shot, the act of zooming has meaning...it can dictate a voyeristic intent or to make the viewer aware of the camera......or....indicate an amature photographer! Use it wisely. ;)
 
Totally!

I have been shooting on prosumer video cameras for years and totally understood them...but found myself, at first, struggling with a still camera SLR. But once you get it you get it, and you'll become much more knowledgeable in general about this stuff because of it.

And the great news? You can learn EVERYTHING you need to learn right here on DVXUser!
 
...and maybe the flicker is in your computer/nle setup ? There should be no flickering whatsoever unless the framerate is very low .
 
kurth said:
...and maybe the flicker is in your computer/nle setup ? There should be no flickering whatsoever unless the framerate is very low .
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Its an exposure flicker due to the camera re-adjusting the aperture because the aperture is non constant. The camera shouldn't be doing it to begin with but I don't think anyone over at Canon engineering bothered with this scenario. It doesn't affect stills shooting at all so it slipped through the cracks.
 
ditto

ditto

I too have experienced this "flickering" problem coupled with a ticking noise as the iris expands and contracts. It would not bother me if i knew id never be zooming in future videos, or want to use the audio while doing so... I tested a friends much nicer lens on my t2i and it exhibited the same issue. I also set the aperture higher to start with so it shouldn't have to change, but it still ticked.. I suppose it is just an oversight.. Though i find it curious that some people don't have this problem
 
Reptowl said:
I too have experienced this "flickering" problem coupled with a ticking noise as the iris expands and contracts. It would not bother me if i knew id never be zooming in future videos, or want to use the audio while doing so... I tested a friends much nicer lens on my t2i and it exhibited the same issue. I also set the aperture higher to start with so it shouldn't have to change, but it still ticked.. I suppose it is just an oversight.. Though i find it curious that some people don't have this problem
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I noticed the same with mine. I assumed it was the kit lens changing aperture when zooming. I have a sigma 24-70 f2.8 nikon fit lens that I will try later with an adaptor to see if the flickering is present. The aperture of that lens shud be constant, therefore no flickering.
C

update: I've just tested the sigma and there is no flickering when zooming.
 
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Ben_B said:
Barry, as much as I love the GH1 and its great kit lens, it is worth noting that it will also flicker while zooming.

However, it is also worth noting that right now the GH1 is $1200 with a pretty darn amazing kit lens, and the T2i is $900 with a piece of crap kit lens that Canon and Nikon throw into every low-end model that they sell at Costco.

The GH1's kit lens sells for $850 by itself. Which means that for $300 extra over the T2i with kit, or $400 over just the body, you're getting an $850 lens and a camera that is just as good in almost every department, and better in several.
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Can you tell me where I can buy the GH1 with this lens kit that you are talking about? I have been watching this post and am really thinking now of buying a Gh1 instead of the T2i. Thank you
 
Ben_B said:
You know what I like better than a 7D in a GH1 sized body? A GH1 in a GH1 sized body :D

Great advice. Get some cheapo fast Nikon primes ASAP. You will fall in love.
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So your saying on the GH1 you can use the nikon lenses?
 
JoeJITSU said:
Can you tell me where I can buy the GH1 with this lens kit that you are talking about? I have been watching this post and am really thinking now of buying a Gh1 instead of the T2i. Thank you
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The 14-140mm Lumix lens that comes with it just about everywhere. Try Amazon I think they have the camera and lens for $1200. It is worth noting that this lens will also flicker while zooming through and does not solve that problem, but it is a great piece of glass and very versatile.

All of these cameras have their strengths and weaknesses, I would suggest throughly researching everything first. I prefer the Gh1 but things that I don't mind so much (such as the more complicated post workflow) might be dealbreakers for you, just as things a Canon user might not mind so much (the tiny fixed LCD, lack of view finder, record limit) are dealbreakers for me.

JoeJITSU said:
So your saying on the GH1 you can use the nikon lenses?
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Yes, with an adapter it is possible to use just about any lens from any company on M4/3 because of the short flange distance. Luckily Nikon lenses have a slightly longer flange distance than Canon EOS lenses so you can use them with an adapter on the T2i and other Canon cameras as well. The friends I have that shoot with the 5D all use a mix of Canon EOS and Nikon F-mount glass. However, the GH1 does have more varieties of glass that can be adapted to it without the need for optical trickery, such as C-Mount or Canon FD.

One of the reasons I like m4/3 is because I know I can invest in a great variety of glass that will always work with the system I picked. This is also a reason I prefer Nikon glass, because Nikon has stuck with the F-Mount for a very long time, so the system is both past and future proof. Canon switched from FD to EOS after 20 years, and EOS has already been out for 20 years. They could easily switch to another lens mount as technology advances and screw everyone over again...an established paradigm for the company that seems more likely since EOS system uses electronics which have a history of evolving incredibly rapidly.
 
It occurred to me on the first day of shooting outside how spoiled I've been on built-in ND filters for my DVX.

I just bought a screw on .6 and .9, which is working just fine, it just requires a little more work and forethought while shooting.
 
this thread made my mind confused :) lol
so should i invest more money and wait 2 months more for buying 7D or should i just order T2i.
Can anyone tell the difference between 7D and T2i?7D %40 better than T2i ?
 
Kemalettin said:
this thread made my mind confused :) lol
so should i invest more money and wait 2 months more for buying 7D or should i just order T2i.
Can anyone tell the difference between 7D and T2i?7D %40 better than T2i ?
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$900.00. :shocked:

I am being facetious, of course. I have looked at both cameras and just submitted an order for the T2i, which should be delivered this weekend. I have no doubt that the 7D is a "Better" camera. It is built better and offers more options and controls. However, I chose to go with the T2i because I just don't know if the 7D is $900.00 better FOR ME, RIGHT NOW.

I think that all of these HD-DSLRs are just transitional products and are quickly going to be replaced by much more amazing cameras in very short order, so I, personally can not see dropping a sh*t pot full of money to purchase and accessorize these current cameras. That being said, at about a $grand and change for a camera kit and basic accessories, the T2i is just too inexpensive not to get and give it a good little ringing out.
 
I think it's been established by the collective here that a kit zoom with variable aperture (like 15-85 f3.5-5.6) can realistically be used only as a "prime", in other words you can't change the zoom level while shooting or the aperature will change, creating flicker. (Yes, everyone who has had the problem has called it "flicker", check past postings.)

If you want to zoom while shooting, you need a fixed aperture zoom (like 70-200 f2.8). Costs more dough.

Anyway, who zooms while shooting with a DSLR? It's cheesy.
 
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