Steady Cam... Great build quality

S

steadycam

Member
Hey,

Check out this steady cam. I am the designer and builder and would like any input you may have.

This is the link to the ebay auction.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...Category=23780&_trkparms=algo=LVI&its=I&otn=1

There are some videos on the ebay listing.

One of the main differences with this design is it has full X and Y control for the gimble. Lots don't have that fine control and that makes it a lot harder to adjust.

Thanks and happy shooting.

A few videos of the steady cam:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AfT-jtSZnW0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u_f_8HQwvAk
 
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Thanks, I have more than one, just wanted to see how it sells. I am not sure of the 'buy it know' price because I am don't know the market. I am going to let this action end and take it from there.

Thanks for the question.
 
I'll probably buy this two weeks from now, provided it's balance-ready for DSLRs without the need for me to drill any holes.
 
Can you explain what effect it has on stability to adjust the rotation of the lower arm, as demonstrated in your video?
 
Right now this is best DIY style merlin steadicam on ebay.
Top plate is same quality as Merlin.

I have some questions about friction in main bearing as I am not sure that this is good thing.
But I am used more to Glidecam style stabs where you use your second hand.

But you clearly need some operator and make mike closer (or use lav).
 
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Vitaliy Kiselev said:
Right now this is best DIY style merlin steadicam on ebay.
Top plate is same quality as Merlin.

I have some questions about friction in main bearing as I am not sure that this is good thing.
But I am used more to Glidecam style stabs where you use your second hand.

But you clearly need some operator and make mike closer (or use lav).
Click to expand...


The main bearings are adjusted to be like that. They are very nice bearings and actually they worked to well, the camera would turn with any slight motion, so I had to adjust it to be like that. If one wanted less friction they could adjust it, but I am not sure I recommend it. There are two high precision bearings one for the torsional load and the other to assist with the radial load.
 
lpowell said:
Can you explain what effect it has on stability to adjust the rotation of the lower arm, as demonstrated in your video?
Click to expand...

Well, this is the coarse adjustment. After you get an idea of what type of weight you need you can adjust the lower arm to make the center of gravity somewhat close. The important thing is to use as little of weight as possible you don't want it to be to lower heavy because the momentum of the weight will try to keep moving when you stop moving.
 
steadycam said:
The main bearings are adjusted to be like that. They are very nice bearings and actually they worked to well, the camera would turn with any slight motion, so I had to adjust it to be like that. If one wanted less friction they could adjust it, but I am not sure I recommend it. There are two high precision bearings one for the torsional load and the other to assist with the radial load.
Click to expand...

Can you make some video or good photos about your gymbal?

I have few other questions concerning design.

I had some talks with authors and found two interesting things:

1) Such design normally do not have weights behind camera, like in this stab
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180548212075&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:US:1123

It looks like frequent weak point is that camera tends to move forward during movements. Can such solution cure this?

2) Also if you look at cheapest Turkish stab it allows you to move gymbal (sadly, only one axis), and not the cam.
Which approach is better?
 
the ebay link has a product photo with a video camera mounted on it...i wouldt mind seeing some video shot with this thing. i'm liking the design.
 
It would look nicer and more "finished" if anodized...preferably using the hard coat process. Since you have used 6061 T6 this would be no problem.

You should also offer international shipping since the price of Merlins overseas (eg Australia) is outrageous. I had my Merlin shipped by USPS for about US$75.
 
My two contrarian cents:

A simple Fig Rig or cheap eBay knockoff thereof can give much better results than any of the admittedly much cooler and more Rube Goldbergy stabilizers. I paid 50 bucks for mine and it's been golden every time I've shot with it. No futzing with washers to balance the thing every time you take it out of e bag, no getting whacked in the nuts when it suddenly decides to spin around, no ship-at-sea tilting under the best of circumstances.

I know some will vehemently disagree, but I feel that this concept of a cheap steadicam is like chasing a mirage. It's never going to work as well as the real thing. Physics and all that. Better to mount the camera on a steering wheel and hold it with both hands, arms absorbing vibration, infinite range of motion, only adds a few ounces to the camera weight itself so you can hold the thing up for longer than a short take without a sore arm.

My hat's off to the intrepid hobbyists hammering out these Merlin knockoffs in their garages, but I feel like if these things really worked so well there'd be better examples than just Vimeos of guys jumping up and down in their bathroom mirror, or walking through their apartment. A Fig Rig type stabilizer doesn't have any geek appeal but it does have the advantage of actually working well.
 
Skeptikal said:
It would look nicer and more "finished" if anodized...preferably using the hard coat process. Since you have used 6061 T6 this would be no problem.

You should also offer international shipping since the price of Merlins overseas (eg Australia) is outrageous. I had my Merlin shipped by USPS for about US$75.
Click to expand...

Over seas shipping is no problem I just didn't know what it cost. What is the best company to ship over sea's. Also, I didn't coat the it to try to keep the cost down. But I plan to offer that in the future if they sell ok. Thanks for the comments.
 
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