groveChuck
U-matic Member
Thanks Bubble- too bad about the EVF!
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morgan_moore
Major Contributor
On another thread the issue of light configs came up, here is my light config..
morgan_moore
Major Contributor
Yes I cradle it .. or put it on my lightwieght sticks.. there are some jobs that handheld is just a no no
I first built this for doing some pickups at a hotel shoot, and IMO buildings and handheld dont mix
I handhold it with the left hand under the lens and the right hand on the mic boom
I dont use top handles because the taller the handle the more the camera can pendulum, and with the FS the top handle needs to be high to clear the onboard monitor which I dont use for looking at but do use the touchscreen of..
This little rig has one real weakness and that is you cant really shoot an interview with good eyeline handheld
But its a sweet little combo with my miller solo sticks which are not really man enough for my bigger build with Vlock etc
S
I first built this for doing some pickups at a hotel shoot, and IMO buildings and handheld dont mix
I handhold it with the left hand under the lens and the right hand on the mic boom
I dont use top handles because the taller the handle the more the camera can pendulum, and with the FS the top handle needs to be high to clear the onboard monitor which I dont use for looking at but do use the touchscreen of..
This little rig has one real weakness and that is you cant really shoot an interview with good eyeline handheld
But its a sweet little combo with my miller solo sticks which are not really man enough for my bigger build with Vlock etc
S
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Rick Burnett
Section Moderator
Just curious, why do you feel buildings and handheld don't mix? I just shot a ton of stuff hand held with the FS100 and I thought it did fantastic. The size of the camera (and weight) really helped to keep a nice smooth motion EVEN without my stabilizer. Other cameras I have just NOT been so lucky. But, maybe it's how I hold it. I put the grip into DSLR position basically, and then rotate it forward another 15 degrees. Then my other hand is under it and touch the lens at almost all times as I rack focus a lot.
morgan_moore
Major Contributor
These were static exteriors lock offs or with maybe a little pan or tilt to create some psuedo movement, often with a telephoto - showing the hotel in its countryside environment
Part of the reason I wanted super light was to hike back a couple of fields and use a tele
It was a very 'corporate' shoot
I find handheld works when the camera is moving in tune with a human in the frame
Also all of the INTs had been shot on a dolly, so cutting to handheld would not really work - think a project or at least a sequence within a project needs to sustain a visual aesthetic
A different project was 'allies farmhouse' I shot a couple of sequences handheld and then moved to a dolly for other sequences.. https://vimeo.com/43093783
S
Part of the reason I wanted super light was to hike back a couple of fields and use a tele
It was a very 'corporate' shoot
I find handheld works when the camera is moving in tune with a human in the frame
Also all of the INTs had been shot on a dolly, so cutting to handheld would not really work - think a project or at least a sequence within a project needs to sustain a visual aesthetic
A different project was 'allies farmhouse' I shot a couple of sequences handheld and then moved to a dolly for other sequences.. https://vimeo.com/43093783
S
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Rick Burnett
Section Moderator
Ahhh, haha, I didn't know you meant exterior! Yes, exterior I lock down. Many times because I do set extension to liven up boring areas 
Or, in some cases, add tanks, helicopters, soldiers, etc! Unless that exterior is of course not a wide and I am following someone around.
Or, in some cases, add tanks, helicopters, soldiers, etc! Unless that exterior is of course not a wide and I am following someone around.morgan_moore
Major Contributor
You could call it a sunset rig! The INTs was a crew shoot with lighting and talent, I then went back solo a few days later to pick up the exts,
Incidentally shooting solo I think one can have a situation where you use smaller batteries that may conk out with little warning, whereas in a crew shoot with talent I like big batts so that I am never holding up the (expensive) proceedings with a batt change..
I dont really trust 5d batts on the monitor for longer runs
S
Incidentally shooting solo I think one can have a situation where you use smaller batteries that may conk out with little warning, whereas in a crew shoot with talent I like big batts so that I am never holding up the (expensive) proceedings with a batt change..
I dont really trust 5d batts on the monitor for longer runs
S
MattDavis
Well-known member
It has to be said, and I too am guilty of this, that I note with increasing scepticism that we're not seeing so many... shall we say... fully 'wired' rigs?
I mean, once you cable them up so that they actually work, and do all the velcro and rubber-band stuff so you don't accidentally unplug something, it kind of puts the hair-net and rollers and the fluffy slippers on our (ooh, matron) 'leggy blondes'.
I mean, once you cable them up so that they actually work, and do all the velcro and rubber-band stuff so you don't accidentally unplug something, it kind of puts the hair-net and rollers and the fluffy slippers on our (ooh, matron) 'leggy blondes'.
David G. Smith
Steak Knife Member
This is not a fancy rig, but I think that the photo turned out very nice... My FS-100 with F mount Vivitar Series 1 28-105mm f2.8-3.5 Macro Zoom lens with Lilliput monitor on Miller sticks and head.
Shoot with a T2i and kit lens.
Shoot with a T2i and kit lens.
Chris Johnston
Veteran
Crafters of Light
Active member
@ David G. Smith
you gotta get a picture of it with the squirrle.
you gotta get a picture of it with the squirrle.
David G. Smith
Steak Knife Member
Ahh... Vilmos Squirrel went union and I can't afford his day rate now!
Ralph Oshiro
Veteran
New FS100 owner; still assembling my rig. A few more doo-dads to order, but here's a preliminary build:
Ralph Oshiro
Veteran
Almost there . . .
Still waiting on one more forgotten part to be delivered until I can mount my Kinotehnik EVF. I was happy to find this Chrosziel cold-shoe rail to fit the top screws on the FS100. The 4.7" rail fits the top of the FS100 nicely (though, I had to put 3/8" thread adapters onto the 1/4"-20 Chrosziel screws to fit the Sony threads). This is where the 15mm rail for the Kinotehnik will mount. I've decided to create two LWS rail systems: 1. Studio set-up with 7" monitor, 2. ENG set-up with the Kinotehnik EVF.
Still waiting on one more forgotten part to be delivered until I can mount my Kinotehnik EVF. I was happy to find this Chrosziel cold-shoe rail to fit the top screws on the FS100. The 4.7" rail fits the top of the FS100 nicely (though, I had to put 3/8" thread adapters onto the 1/4"-20 Chrosziel screws to fit the Sony threads). This is where the 15mm rail for the Kinotehnik will mount. I've decided to create two LWS rail systems: 1. Studio set-up with 7" monitor, 2. ENG set-up with the Kinotehnik EVF.
Ralph Oshiro
Veteran
Now, the quick-release plate I need to build the second rig is on back-order, so my handheld rig will have to wait. This rig is proving a bit more tricky to design--note that the bridge-plate shown here is mounted upside-down for a lower-profile. I may need a second dovetail to extend the mount rearward for a proper CG, but I'm really trying to keep the weight at a minimum on these builds, so the less metal the better. Here it is so far, with my Lectrosonics receiver attached:
I power the 7" monitor (when in studio configuration), and the Kinotehnik EVF with a Gold-Mount Switronix brick (the only non-Anton Bauer bricks I could find which are still compatible with my Anton Bauer quad-charger), so the Gold-Mount adapter will go on the rear. I'm still toying with handle extension ideas, but I think a simple rod extension using a swiveling Shape bracket may be good enough.
I power the 7" monitor (when in studio configuration), and the Kinotehnik EVF with a Gold-Mount Switronix brick (the only non-Anton Bauer bricks I could find which are still compatible with my Anton Bauer quad-charger), so the Gold-Mount adapter will go on the rear. I'm still toying with handle extension ideas, but I think a simple rod extension using a swiveling Shape bracket may be good enough.
Ralph Oshiro
Veteran
I finally received my cold-shoe rod brackets that I forgot to order. I chose not to use the mount included with the Kinotehnik EVF (it's heavy, and I had no idea how it's supposed to tighten on a non-locking cold-shoe). Instead, I used two 15mm rod brackets, screwed-down tightly onto the Chrosziel rail. Adding a second cold-shoe bracket made for a really solid EVF mount. I used an offset bracket to re-position the EVF more forward:
By the way, I'm pretty satisfied with the Kinotehnik EVF (purchased used off of eBay, but looks brand new). It's bright, sharp, and has almost no lag (it does have some). The plastic-ey diopter mechanism is less than ideal, but it works just fine. The included Kinotehnik DC cable works as it should when plugged into my Gold Mount brick adapter's D-tap. Note: Always be sure check the polarity of your D-tap, since some D-taps are un-keyed, and reversing the polarity will fry whatever you're plugging in if it lacks protection circuitry (which many devices lack).
By the way, I'm pretty satisfied with the Kinotehnik EVF (purchased used off of eBay, but looks brand new). It's bright, sharp, and has almost no lag (it does have some). The plastic-ey diopter mechanism is less than ideal, but it works just fine. The included Kinotehnik DC cable works as it should when plugged into my Gold Mount brick adapter's D-tap. Note: Always be sure check the polarity of your D-tap, since some D-taps are un-keyed, and reversing the polarity will fry whatever you're plugging in if it lacks protection circuitry (which many devices lack).