AC130: Panasonic ag ac130

Predicted future threads:
Hah! Well, most of those can be addressed right now, based on what we know, so let's take a stab...

Ag-ac130\60 vs HMC150
Do you need CCDs instead of CMOS? If you absolutely need a CCD, get the HMC150.
Does weight matter to you a lot? The HMC150 is substantially lighter, like two pounds lighter, than the AC130/60. If you need the lightest handheld camera, the HMC150 has a big advantage.
Does ultimate image sharpness float your boat? The 130/160 will be noticeably and substantially sharper than the HMC150.
If you need zoom range, the 130/160 have a 21x lens, vs. the 150's 13x lens. Both have the same wide-angle capability, so all the improvement is in the telephoto range of the 130/160.
Do you need standard-def DV recording or firewire streaming to a computer? Gotta go with the 130/160 if you need that.
Do you need simultaneous recording so you have two copies of the footage? If so, get the 130/160.
Do you need to hand a copy of the footage off to your client at the end of the shoot? The 130/160 are ideal for that, the HMC150 not as much. You can still do it with the 150, but with the 130/160 you can keep a copy of the footage for yourself too, which can really save your bacon and make your client love you if the client somehow manages to lose or delete or otherwise mess up the card with all the footage.

Ag-ac130 or 160?
No-brainer. If you can possibly afford it, get the 160. If you can't possibly afford the 160, get the 130.

Is the Ag-ac130\60 NTSC \ PAL switchable?
Good question, I don't know. I think so.

Will the HMC batteries work in the Ag-ac130\60?
Definitely.

Is it possible to upgrade my ac130 firmware and make it a 160?
Definitely not.

Which is the best follow focus for the Ag-ac130\60?
No physical follow focus at all would be best. Use an electronic one instead, such as the FoXi, the VariZoom, or the Manfrotto. Physical follow focuses could work, but won't work better than an electronic one (it's an electronic lens after all). And electronic ones can do things that physical ones can't. And as far as pricing goes, you can't really buy a decent physical follow focus for anywhere near what you can get a good electronic one for.

Which is the best SDXC card?
The new line of Panasonic Pro cards, or the Hoodman Raw Steel, or the SanDisk Extremes, or the Panasonic Gold.

Relay or backup recording?
Backup, always. Relay isn't really necessary -- you can get six hours of footage on a 64GB card, do you really, really need more than that? Really? If you do, go with relay, but otherwise use backup. Everything you do, everything you record, every dollar you spend on production, it all comes down to the footage on the cards. Have two copies. It just makes sense. And for people who refuse to follow the advice in the prior question (which is the best card) and who insist on trying to save five bucks by buying from ebay or from some noname seller in the Amazon marketplace and who therefore will get burned by getting a counterfeit card, well, at least having backup recording will give them two shots at getting the footage instead of putting all their eggs in one (counterfeit) basket.

When is Barry Green's Ag-ac130\60 book coming out?
I feel like I just wrote it. :thumbsup:
 
Once again to those who may just be reading -
The AG AC160 differentiates itself by - (otherwise the AC130 and 160 are the same camera)
1. PAL/NTSC switchable
2. Linear PCM Audio
3. HD-SDI
4. VFR recording
 
I am a little confused about the VFR option. Does it mean one can shoot 720 at 5fps, 17fps, 27fps 52fps etc...in addition to the standard 24, 30, 60? If so, why would you ever want to shoot at 23fps instead of 24fps? I would think if you shot something at 30fps and were in working in 30fps (29.97) sequence and you dropped your 19fps footage lets say, it would play sped up?
I'm just not sure I understand the significance of this feature. Any clarification would be great.
 
You forgot to add the question that will be asked like one month after the cams come out: "Should I purchase an AC130/160 now or wait till NAB next year". haha


The 21x zoom with the same wide angle as the HMC150 is really appealing. When I was shooting hockey I could have used that capability.

Barry, is panasonic giving you an early release mdel to play with before they come out? I'd like to see/hear the real skinny on these cams, especially on what the 3MOS/lens combo is really like.
 
You forgot to add the question that will be asked like one month after the cams come out: "Should I purchase an AC130/160 now or wait till NAB next year". haha

I thought the big question will be "Should I buy the AC160/130 or wait for Scarlet?"
 
I am a little confused about the VFR option. Does it mean one can shoot 720 at 5fps, 17fps, 27fps 52fps etc...in addition to the standard 24, 30, 60? If so, why would you ever want to shoot at 23fps instead of 24fps? I would think if you shot something at 30fps and were in working in 30fps (29.97) sequence and you dropped your 19fps footage lets say, it would play sped up?
I'm just not sure I understand the significance of this feature. Any clarification would be great.

VFR is for just that - real nice slow motion and fast motion, without having to do it in post.
 
Thanks Barry for taking the time to answer these questions. I'm really excited by the 160. Can't wait to see footage from it.
 
Is the Ag-ac130\60 NTSC \ PAL switchable?

130 - No
160 - Yes

Although:
the 150 is NTSC only
the 152 is PAL only
but the 151 for Europe is switchable
so it will be interesting to see what is done with the 13X for Europe
 
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Ok. So when I shoot at 60 now and conform to 30 in Cinema tools, I can essentially skip that step with the 160. Thanks for the info.
 
I would like to know if it's going to be viable to shoot an entire event in 1080/60p and edit normaly (the benefit being to have full resolution and decent slo-mo when needed). Or if the VFR mode will record without sound or some other spanner in the works like that.
 
I would like to know if it's going to be viable to shoot an entire event in 1080/60p and edit normaly (the benefit being to have full resolution and decent slo-mo when needed). Or if the VFR mode will record without sound or some other spanner in the works like that.

I think it would be best to shoot 1080 24P or 1080 30P and use the VFR up to 60 for your slow motion. An entire shoot at VFR 60 would chew up your cards so fast, it wouldn't be worth it. It's not made as a normal shooting mode - I can tell you that much.
and - IF it's like the VFR of the AF100, you are correct - no audio will be recorded.
 
I think it would be best to shoot 1080 24P or 1080 30P and use the VFR up to 60 for your slow motion. An entire shoot at VFR 60 would chew up your cards so fast, it wouldn't be worth it. It's not made as a normal shooting mode - I can tell you that much.
and - IF it's like the VFR of the AF100, you are correct - no audio will be recorded.

What do you mean by that? If you shoot at 24p or 30p isn't that the frame rate you're getting? How is it possible to shoot 24p and record 60 frames? My experience with overcranking is shooting at 60 and conforming to 24 or 30....not shooting at 24 but actually recording 60. I'm just kind of confused, obviously.
 
What do you mean by that? If you shoot at 24p or 30p isn't that the frame rate you're getting? How is it possible to shoot 24p and record 60 frames? My experience with overcranking is shooting at 60 and conforming to 24 or 30....not shooting at 24 but actually recording 60. I'm just kind of confused, obviously.

That's the great thing about doing it in camera - no conforming.
For example
1.Set camera @ 1080 24P
2. Enable VFR (your camera is still in 24P mode)
3. Choose anything higher than 24 for the VFR setting, let's say 48 fps.
4. Shoot your sequence
5. Play back will be in slow motion since you recorded 48fps but are playing back at the setting of 24P.

I hope I explained that right and that it makes sense. I see Barry is on tonight - hopefully he can confirm my understanding is correct.
 
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Howdy Green Barry! Long time!

No physical follow focus at all would be best. Use an electronic one instead, such as the FoXi, the VariZoom, or the Manfrotto. Physical follow focuses could work, but won't work better than an electronic one (it's an electronic lens after all). And electronic ones can do things that physical ones can't. And as far as pricing goes, you can't really buy a decent physical follow focus for anywhere near what you can get a good electronic one for.

You really think so? I've tried most or all of the electronic options, and I find them pretty finicky at the focal distances I typically use (usually in the 40-80 foot range). Granted, that's not what one finds in film-style work, but I imagine one could still get more precision and confidence at closer ranges with a physical follow focus? I also find that either the Panny implementation or the focus controllers available seem to have some drift... it's very hard to hit a focus point based on markers. The Manfrotto's ability to kinda set min and max focal distances doesn't work reliably in my range either... it doesn't reliably hit anything beyond 65 feet or so (with that set as max focal distance, I can throw the focus wheel to max and get anything from 55 to 100 or so, in a very non-repeatable manner).

Just some experiences from the back of the theater!
-Barry
 
That 21x lens is very desirable since I shoot sports for a local TV show with my HMC. Ebay/the marketplace are going to be lighting up with HMC's i'm sure
 
Panasonic is so crafty, I wouldn't even consider replacing my 150 but that dual recording is so HUGE!
 
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