or Sony RX10: What we've been looking for from Panasonic?

Darren, Why do you have steadyshot on while on a tripod? You might wanna try a small clip on the tripod with SS on and SS off and not move the camera to see how the lens floats or pulses.

I found portrait gives the most looking into shadows. But you are right, not a world of difference when changing profiles.
 
philiplipetz said:
Don't make the camera into something it is not. it is great in light, has a nice HDMI feed, and is highly portable with good lens, but it is not the low light camera you are describing. not even close. Everyone who has one says this, and it is the dreamers who try to make it something else. it is time to explore the limits if what it can do, not try to force it to do what it cannot do.
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So are you saying not to take a 1 inch sensor camera and not compare it to a FF low light king?

I found that for a "1INCH" sensor it does a good job in low levels of light. Better than my HVX200 ever did. Better than my XF100 ever has. And on par with the Gh3 I had. But compared to my MK3 or C100, I don't even need to look at the files of the cameras to know the difference. But the RX10 is certainly capable of shooting in the city at nighttime.
 
steadyshot was on since i plan to use this thing mostly handheld, maybe with a shoulder butt, probably a bunch with a very light tripod or monopod, all of which likely aided by the stabilizer. i was looking for floating/pulsing as well, and it's pretty much nonexistent in those shots, so i'm plenty pleased with SS standard. i could have put in active just to see the performance/artifacting hit, but it's already known it will be worse, so i don't ever plan to use active SS except in rare circumstances were it's needed, not just desired
 
Still, its an optical stabilizer and you're on a tripod. That optical element is going to bounce around when you are T-pod mounted. I understand what you are saying, but shooting a tripod mounted rez chart with it on? Try it off. No need to post. Just point the camera at the chart with it on and off and see if the lines pulsate while backing away from the t-pod and I will back away from the saturation slider. LOL. Try a star chart too.
 
you drive a hard bargain. a trade it is. saturation, for SS off ;)

i'm not a huge fan of shooting charts. This i was mostly interested in just the differences in profiles, and how much in camera sharpening affects artifacting. seems leaving sharpening at 0 is totally fine, will have to see if the real world agrees with that.
 
Darren Levine said:
you drive a hard bargain. a trade it is. saturation, for SS off ;)

i'm not a huge fan of shooting charts. This i was mostly interested in just the differences in profiles, and how much in camera sharpening affects artifacting. seems leaving sharpening at 0 is totally fine, will have to see if the real world agrees with that.
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LOL. It's worth kowing how the lens will act with it on and not too much camera movement. Could make the difference in any aliasing you might run across. I have set the SS on/off as one of my quick menu functions.
 
speaking of quick access stuff, im quite pleased with 3 buttons i've mapped:

C button on top: focus magnify
AEL button: ND filter
control wheel: iso (this is by far my most favorite iso quick access on ANY camera
 
philiplipetz said:
Don't make the camera into something it is not. it is great in light, has a nice HDMI feed, and is highly portable with good lens, but it is not the low light camera you are describing. not even close. Everyone who has one says this, and it is the dreamers who try to make it something else. it is time to explore the limits if what it can do, not try to force it to do what it cannot do.
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I think this is right to the point.
I would use this as an outdoor, well lit all-in-one tool with a VND on it pretty much always in order to get the best out of the Zeiss glass and keep it in the range where it can shine.
I rarely shoot full frame, or super35 above 800 and mostly below 400, I'm certainly not going to push a 1" sensor.
Outdoors and professionally lit, this camera may well be awesome at a number of things.
 
dustylense said:
Better than my XF100 ever has. And on par with the Gh3 I had. But compared to my MK3 or C100, I don't even need to look at the files of the cameras to know the difference. But the RX10 is certainly capable of shooting in the city at nighttime.
Click to expand...

Low-light may be a very personal, subjective definition. For the last 2-3 years the GH2/3 with Lumix 12-23 f2.8 provided 99% of my low-light needs. The Lumix 20mm f1.7 was always carried but seldom used. For me, that was the ideal low-light setup.

I agree with Christopher, the RX10 is at least on par with the GH3 w 12-35 f2.8. Add the RX10 feature and lens benefits and it begins to take the lead.
 
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dan.carter said:
Add the RX10 feature and lens benefits and it begins to take the lead.
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As they round the bend, RX10 is in the lead with GH3 trying to stay close but with each stride the gap is widening. The RX10 seems to pull away as they cross the finishing line.......but......

(It's a photo finish..... :grin:)
 
stoneinapond said:

As they round the bend, RX10 is in the lead with GH3 trying to stay close but with each stride the gap is widening. The RX10 seems to pull away as they cross the finishing line.......but......

(It's a photo finish..... :grin:)
Click to expand...

I get the picture :thumbsup:.
 
i actually just did some around town night shots, and keeping in mind i'm used to c100 low light ability, i'd say with iso1600 being the upper limits of it's 'quality', you can just barely squeeze out nighttime lamplight only shots. notching the shutter down to even 1/15 can make the grade in certain situations. again, 3200 isn't terrible, and if i'm just shooting an event or whatnot i'd have no qualms with grabbing shots at the higher isos if it means getting the shot vs not. for my personal uses such as stock footage, i will 9 times out of 10 will draw the line at 1600, which is NOT bad! considering the package size and relative to other small superzooms which will fall apart much quicker, it still puts this as the only game in town for many uses.
 
Good location to use the RX10 200mm optical & 400mm Clear Image Zoom. The two are almost indistinguishable.

Some aquarium clips are well above ISO1600, several are ISO3200. Aquarium shot at 24p, exterior 60p.


Phoenix Wildlife World Zoo and Aquarium.

Sony DSC-RX10
Manfrotto 560B Fluid Monopod
Gitzo GT2531LVL Tripod
Benro S2 Head
Polarizer
 
dan.carter said:
Low-light may be a very personal, subjective definition. For the last 2-3 years the GH2/3 with Lumix 12-23 f2.8 provided 99% of my low-light needs. The Lumix 20mm f1.7 was always carried but seldom used. For me, that was the ideal low-light setup.

I agree with Christopher, the RX10 is at least on par with the GH3 w 12-35 f2.8. Add the RX10 feature and lens benefits and it begins to take the lead.
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Thank you. That is exactly what I wanted to hear. I mainly shoot weddings so getting the shot is more important than getting perfect quality. I just retired my XF100 as the low light performance just wasn't good enough. I replaced it with a Panasonic G6 which is on a par with the GH3 & have been happy with ISO 3200 & F/2.8 so if the RX10 has similar performance then coupled with the convenience & facilities of the whole RX10 package then it looks like you have forced me to buy one:laugh:
 
nigelbb said:
Thank you. That is exactly what I wanted to hear. I mainly shoot weddings so getting the shot is more important than getting perfect quality. I just retired my XF100 as the low light performance just wasn't good enough. I replaced it with a Panasonic G6 which is on a par with the GH3 & have been happy with ISO 3200 & F/2.8 so if the RX10 has similar performance then coupled with the convenience & facilities of the whole RX10 package then it looks like you have forced me to buy one:laugh:
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Yes I would say the videos I have seen on this thread are better than any of the Sony marketing videos. Chris & Dan have also "forced" me to get an RX10. Heh…..
 
nigelbb said:
Thank you. That is exactly what I wanted to hear. I mainly shoot weddings so getting the shot is more important than getting perfect quality. I just retired my XF100 as the low light performance just wasn't good enough. I replaced it with a Panasonic G6 which is on a par with the GH3 & have been happy with ISO 3200 & F/2.8 so if the RX10 has similar performance then coupled with the convenience & facilities of the whole RX10 package then it looks like you have forced me to buy one:laugh:
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Nigel & Micheal,

LOL: I'm happy to have been part of an early RX10 Christmas gift for the two of you.

Careful not to shoot your eye out...
 
dan.carter said:
Nigel & Micheal,

LOL: I'm happy to have been part of an early RX10 Christmas gift for the two of you.

Careful not to shoot your eye out...
Click to expand...
Heh, I also have a little Sony DSC-HX9V that I have been using for family/vacation stuff.
I always said if this little camera could do 24p with manual focus/exposure it would be awesome.
That is what the RX10 is…...
 
Michael Schrengohst said:
Heh, I also have a little Sony DSC-HX9V that I have been using for family/vacation stuff.
I always said if this little camera could do 24p with manual focus/exposure it would be awesome.
That is what the RX10 is…...
Click to expand...
Don't forget a built in ND, peaking, and zebras with an Iris that is declicked.
 
OK I got the RX10 today and have figured most of it out.
I was playing with the app to control the camera with an iPhone.
I can only get it to take still photos?
I have the camera switched to movie?
Is there a secret to switch to wireless movie mode?
 
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