Native 24p Causing Issues

Shawn Storm

Shawn Storm

Active member
Hi Folks,

I just tried shooting 1080p for the first time (I have always done 720p) and I am having all sort of issues with it. I have the factory defaults set with PTool, but I did check the "Native 24p" option so I don't have to deal with removing pulldown. HOWEVER...

1> The first time I tried capturing the footage in 1080p my camera had a disk write error and totally froze the camera to the point where no buttons worked and I had to remove the battery to even get the camera to turn off. I am using a Class 10 Sandisk 8gig SD Card.

2> I can't import the footage with log and transfer.. I get a red exclamation point that says "Stream Error". I played with the log and transfer prefs a bit and still no luck.

So I am about to give up on the 1080p thing.. but hoping someone can give me some advice of how to make it work! Does the native 24p thing really cause all these issues? I am getting ready to reset my firmware to factory default and just deal with the removing pulldown (although it sounds daunting to me) :)

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

-shawn-
 
Shawn Storm said:
Does the native 24p thing really cause all these issues? I am getting ready to reset my firmware to factory default and just deal with the removing pulldown
Click to expand...
Yep, Native 24p is still broken, but for something that does work reliably, you might check out the link in my signature.
 
lpowell said:
Yep, Native 24p is still broken, but for something that does work reliably, you might check out the link in my signature.
Click to expand...

Hi LPowell - So you are saying that checking Native 24p is always a bad idea? When you say "something that does work reliably" are you just talking about the hack settings that don't cause issues such as the "40 Mbps High Reliability Patch"? I assume I would still need to figure out the whole pull down thing?

Honestly I am very daunted by the Pull Down process and after reading tons of posts in this forum I am still baffled about what the best method is exactly...

-Shawn-
 
While some have been satisfied with the GH1's Native 24p footage, it has been shown to produce corrupted video frames, even in cases where the video appears to record and play back without errors. If you don't want to take that risk, sticking with interlaced FHD video is the most reliable option.

The best way to deinterlace the GH1's FHD video depends on which editing tools you prefer to use. On Windows, I've seen excellent results with Adobe After Effects CS5, versus imperfect results with the previous version in CS4. The interlacing is done in AE's Interpret Footage dialog, which provides a number of options for tweaking the results if need be. I've also made use of CineForm to deinterlace and transcode video source files for cross-platform editing.
 
lpowell said:
I've also made use of CineForm to deinterlace and transcode video source files for cross-platform editing.
Click to expand...

+1

if you're going to transcode anyway, you might as well let Cineform (for instance) remove pulldown at the same time, in one click.
 
lpowell said:
While some have been satisfied with the GH1's Native 24p footage, it has been shown to produce corrupted video frames, even in cases where the video appears to record and play back without errors. If you don't want to take that risk, sticking with interlaced FHD video is the most reliable option.
Click to expand...
Considering my one attempt yielded corrupt video, I think it is a sign that I shouldn't go the native 24p route. :)

lpowell said:
The best way to deinterlace the GH1's FHD video depends on which editing tools you prefer to use. On Windows, I've seen excellent results with Adobe After Effects CS5, versus imperfect results with the previous version in CS4. The interlacing is done in AE's Interpret Footage dialog, which provides a number of options for tweaking the results if need be. I've also made use of CineForm to deinterlace and transcode video source files for cross-platform editing.
Click to expand...

I use a Mac and Final Cut Pro. I would prefer to either use FCP or something that is free (unless there is a great solution that doesn't cost much). Also something simple would be nice. What is the best solution for my situation?? I am sure this has been addressed in other posts, but I can't seem to find a clear answer.

-shawn-
 
Too bad you weren't on PC. I could help you through the free way. I don't believe you can get virtual pc running on Mac?
 
mojo43 said:
Too bad you weren't on PC. I could help you through the free way. I don't believe you can get virtual pc running on Mac?
Click to expand...

Thanks for the offer. I would strongly prefer to stick with my Mac OS. I could run PC software but I am not really willing to go down that road.

There must be a relatively easy and high quality method to remove pulldown on a Mac? I will keep digging through other threads to see if I can figure it out. I thought about sticking to interlaced video because it looked fine in FCP, but then I tried exporting the footage and saw all the yucky scan lines... so looks like doing pulldown is a must!

Anyways - I am sure my question has already been answered somewhere on this site so I will keep looking - but if anyone can put me on the fast track (with a link or an in depth response) that would be great! :)

-shawn-
 
Hey shawn,

I'm on a mac and am removing pulldown via compressor (it comes with final cut studio). Does an excellent job and doesnt take very long. Import your footage to prores, locate the prores file in documents>final cut pro documents>capture scratch. Drag any clips into compressor.

In compressor, locate the inspector window. In the inspector window, click on the icon that shows "frame controls". You'll have to turn frame controls on, then under deinterlace change the option to "reverse telecine". Under encoder, choose the file type you want to transcode to, and then under geometry select "same as source" which will yield 1080. Sometimes I choose 720 if I'm going to be mixing in 60p>24p conformed footage in the same timeline. Save these settings so you wont have to select all of these options every time, and drag it up to the clip or clips you had brought into compressor. Click submit and voila... you may need to walk away and let it work, depending on how many clips you are working with.

Or you could save all these steps with a GH2, but you might run into that banding issue... personally I'm looking into the canon and nikon options in addition to my little GH1... I'd take all 3 formats if I could... they all seem great! Good luck!
 
c.cook88 said:
Hey shawn,

I'm on a mac and am removing pulldown via compressor (it comes with final cut studio). Does an excellent job and doesnt take very long. Import your footage to prores, locate the prores file in documents>final cut pro documents>capture scratch. Drag any clips into compressor.....
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip! I am going to try this out as well as the JES Deinterlacer process I have seen outlined in another thread.

-shawn-
 
Shawn Storm said:
I am going to try this out as well as the JES Deinterlacer process I have seen outlined in another thread.

-shawn-
Click to expand...

JES works great too! I did a test awhile back using JES, Neoscene and compressor. The only reason I went with compressor is because on a 10 minute render, compressor was 2 minutes faster, followed by JES and then Neoscene.

There was no difference in quality... all clips rendered to the same file size and quality was overall the same when viewed. I could also down sample 1080 clips to 720 when I was mixing with slo-mo stuff.
 
c.cook88 said:
JES works great too! I did a test awhile back using JES, Neoscene and compressor. The only reason I went with compressor is because on a 10 minute render, compressor was 2 minutes faster, followed by JES and then Neoscene.

There was no difference in quality... all clips rendered to the same file size and quality was overall the same when viewed. I could also down sample 1080 clips to 720 when I was mixing with slo-mo stuff.
Click to expand...

Cool! Thanks again for the great info. I am looking forward to trying all this out (been way too busy with work to deal with it). :)

-shawn-
 
c.cook88 said:
.... Import your footage to prores, locate the prores file in documents....
Click to expand...

Hi Again! Which ProRes format should I use? When looking at the list in Log & Transfer I see all the following options:
Apple ProRes 422 (HQ)
Apple ProRes 422
Apple ProRes 422 (LT)
Apple ProRes 422 (Proxy)

I am guessing the HQ is the highest quality one and I should probably use that? Is it overkill for the GH1? I am torn between ProRes and AIC because I only have a 500 gig HD in my computer and its being consumed very quickly.. how much larger is ProRes than AIC? Does AIC actually degrade GH1 quality at all? Questions questions... :)

-Shawn-
 
Shawn Storm said:
Thanks for the offer. I would strongly prefer to stick with my Mac OS. I could run PC software but I am not really willing to go down that road.

There must be a relatively easy and high quality method to remove pulldown on a Mac? I will keep digging through other threads to see if I can figure it out. I thought about sticking to interlaced video because it looked fine in FCP, but then I tried exporting the footage and saw all the yucky scan lines... so looks like doing pulldown is a must!

Anyways - I am sure my question has already been answered somewhere on this site so I will keep looking - but if anyone can put me on the fast track (with a link or an in depth response) that would be great! :)

-shawn-
Click to expand...

JES DEinterlacer is free but a PITA. I think the camera runs into problems playing back the non native 24p filess, I just installed the 24p thing and it plays clips so far, but stutters on older clips on the card pre 24 p hack.
 
Psynema said:
JES DEinterlacer is free but a PITA. I think the camera runs into problems playing back the non native 24p filess, I just installed the 24p thing and it plays clips so far, but stutters on older clips on the card pre 24 p hack.
Click to expand...
If you change the firmware you should also format the card afterwards. I have had version freeze up the camera tryiing to play back clips in the camera that where recorded with different firmware version I have made.
 
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