My T2i package, help!
- Thread starter Giriki
- Start date
Timbit
Too Quiet Member
refocusedmedia
Veteran
LP-E6 batteries work in the t2i?
Transcend or Patriot cards are just as good, imo.
Transcend or Patriot cards are just as good, imo.
Id drop the caprock filters ,you wont like the outcome.Try replacing fader ND with VariND,FAderND's quality isnt acceptable on 80mm and above.
http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?t=220405
http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?t=220405
Petros Kolyvas
Well-known member
Should have said this first: looks like you have a good start. A few things...
LP-E8 cells for the T2i/550D.
Can I ask why you're getting a Mattebox and the fader ND? The mattebox means you can use proper glass ND filters and not rotating polarizers. One or the other really. I've never been a fan of the rotating "NDs" but that's just me. If you try it (and that can never hurt) you can keep it or sell it.
I'm asking because I see a lot of people putting matte boxes on their cameras to look "pro." If you're not using the mattebox for filters, then why not just use the lens hood/sunshade? Save yourself some money.
NTG2 doesn't work well with the H4n sadly. Check the audio sub-forum here for confirmation - lots of talk about that. I'm not sure what to suggest here instead. Some of it would depend on how you plan on handling sync with the double system audio. If you plan on being a Pluraleyes user (or other software sync tool bases on audio) then the DR-100 might suit you better. If you plan on just using time of day for rough sync and then manual alignment to a clap/slate you want something that can produce broadcast wave files (which the DR-100 can't for some reason.)
For pseudo viewfinders, I've tried (and liked) the Hoodman Cinema Kit, you can move the loupe out of the way really quickly and not have to remove it from the camera.
As with most gear, I do recommend trying it out first. Short of that, don't set your heart on anything. If you buy it and like it, great! Otherwise, get rid of it (sell or take it back) and get what works for you! Your setup should be comfortable to use and you should be able to do/access/manipulate it all without thinking. Some variables won't appear until it's setup and you've had a chance to work with it.
As always, have fun with it!
Oh, and most of this, is just like, my opinion, man.
LP-E8 cells for the T2i/550D.
Can I ask why you're getting a Mattebox and the fader ND? The mattebox means you can use proper glass ND filters and not rotating polarizers. One or the other really. I've never been a fan of the rotating "NDs" but that's just me. If you try it (and that can never hurt) you can keep it or sell it.
I'm asking because I see a lot of people putting matte boxes on their cameras to look "pro." If you're not using the mattebox for filters, then why not just use the lens hood/sunshade? Save yourself some money.
NTG2 doesn't work well with the H4n sadly. Check the audio sub-forum here for confirmation - lots of talk about that. I'm not sure what to suggest here instead. Some of it would depend on how you plan on handling sync with the double system audio. If you plan on being a Pluraleyes user (or other software sync tool bases on audio) then the DR-100 might suit you better. If you plan on just using time of day for rough sync and then manual alignment to a clap/slate you want something that can produce broadcast wave files (which the DR-100 can't for some reason.)
For pseudo viewfinders, I've tried (and liked) the Hoodman Cinema Kit, you can move the loupe out of the way really quickly and not have to remove it from the camera.
As with most gear, I do recommend trying it out first. Short of that, don't set your heart on anything. If you buy it and like it, great! Otherwise, get rid of it (sell or take it back) and get what works for you! Your setup should be comfortable to use and you should be able to do/access/manipulate it all without thinking. Some variables won't appear until it's setup and you've had a chance to work with it.
As always, have fun with it!
Oh, and most of this, is just like, my opinion, man.
Last edited:
Petros Kolyvas
Well-known member
I'm just saying one or the other regarding filters. For shooting outside you need ND filters if you want to keep shooting wide open. Whether that's 4x4 glass filters or screw-on it's up to you. I've seen people using Cookin filters and you couldn't tell that a $30 piece of plastic was doing the dirty work.
You can always buy the ND filters (screw on) and if you need a mattebox later, buy that. Unless you're going to be using quality soft focus, stars or grads (or others), you probably don't need a matte box upfront. Most people are adding those effects in post now - though there is something to be said for committing during production!
If you're not sure if you need something... don't get it at first. Spend a couple days testing the core kit and build it up as you find gaps. Just a thought.
As for Caprock filters, I have no idea.
You can always buy the ND filters (screw on) and if you need a mattebox later, buy that. Unless you're going to be using quality soft focus, stars or grads (or others), you probably don't need a matte box upfront. Most people are adding those effects in post now - though there is something to be said for committing during production!
If you're not sure if you need something... don't get it at first. Spend a couple days testing the core kit and build it up as you find gaps. Just a thought.
As for Caprock filters, I have no idea.
I use both. The reason for a matte box, even if you have/use FaderND filters, is that you get much better light isolation. The ability to add wings and a French Flag are invaluable.
Petros Kolyvas
Well-known member
I still assert they're not a necessary tool for a basic kit.
I would skip the FaderND and grab a linear and circular polarizer. That's all a variable ND consists of. You can even get them for your matte box. Just stack them linear-circular-camera. Doesn't matter which one you turn to adjust the light levels, just make sure the circular is closest to the camera.
TooTallTim
Well-known member
All good advice, but the NTG2 works absolutely fine if you run phantom power on the H4n and remove the battery from the Rode. No problems whatsoever.
Petros Kolyvas
Well-known member
Glad to hear it. I don't own an NTG2... just that there was anecdotal evidence of people complaining about low levels - I thought I would pass that along.
I am glad to be mistaken.
Ted Ramasola
Veteran
Actually caprock Does work. BUT -be careful to choose the right one for specific lenses. For instance,
And while it does remove moire and color aliasing it slightly softens the image. But as to how acceptable it is is up to the user.
I only will use it on wide shots with problematic patterns.
the 1.0 removes moire on 25,35,18mm lenses.
2.8 workes on 85,50,100mm
what doesnt work is using the Zeiss Softar 1 suggested by Philip Bloom on his blog.
The trick to using the caprock is to compensate on contrast as the filter removes a bit of contrast the image. -I actually want this for flexibility in post, kinda like black stretch.
Ted Ramasola
Veteran
You havent listed what head you'll be using with the 055.
Since you're going to use a rig, then get the 503.
Since you're going to use a rig, then get the 503.
Torrey Meeks
Member
Just a quick note, Girki. I noticed you're planning on getting the T2i + kit lens AND the Tamron 17-50mm.
I got the T2i + kit lens before I knew I was going to be getting the Tamron 17-50mm. If you're already planning on getting the Tamron, skip the kit lens and just get the T2i body. The Tamron is a replacement for the kit lens and far superior, in my eyes.
My kit lens is sitting in a box now - all I use is the Tamron. The focal length is almost exactly the same, but the Tamron can maintain a constant f/2.8 aperture throughout.
You'll save a bit of money that you can put to that Tamron lens and other accessories if you just get the T2i body.
Also, definitely look into getting the battery grip for the camera. Having the batteries in the grip keeps heat away from the body, which keeps your sensor from overheating as quickly and extends your shooting time significantly I've found through experience.
(Also check out their sweet deal on the LCD remote timer for time lapses. I haven't got it yet but it's a significant savings over the Canon brand name model)
The Link Delight knockoff battery grip is the one I got, and I've been very satisfied with the restults:
http://www.linkdelight.com/Photogra...el-T2i-As-BG-E8-w/-2xLP-E8-R/flypage.tpl.html
I'd go through their E-bay portal if you order that though. My order through their website got lost, and I had to send a few e-mails to clear it up (they did deliver and have solid customer service).
I got the T2i + kit lens before I knew I was going to be getting the Tamron 17-50mm. If you're already planning on getting the Tamron, skip the kit lens and just get the T2i body. The Tamron is a replacement for the kit lens and far superior, in my eyes.
My kit lens is sitting in a box now - all I use is the Tamron. The focal length is almost exactly the same, but the Tamron can maintain a constant f/2.8 aperture throughout.
You'll save a bit of money that you can put to that Tamron lens and other accessories if you just get the T2i body.
Also, definitely look into getting the battery grip for the camera. Having the batteries in the grip keeps heat away from the body, which keeps your sensor from overheating as quickly and extends your shooting time significantly I've found through experience.
(Also check out their sweet deal on the LCD remote timer for time lapses. I haven't got it yet but it's a significant savings over the Canon brand name model)
The Link Delight knockoff battery grip is the one I got, and I've been very satisfied with the restults:
http://www.linkdelight.com/Photogra...el-T2i-As-BG-E8-w/-2xLP-E8-R/flypage.tpl.html
I'd go through their E-bay portal if you order that though. My order through their website got lost, and I had to send a few e-mails to clear it up (they did deliver and have solid customer service).
aituv
Well-known member
So I'm going to get T2i+kit lens very soon and I've compiled a list of accessories I'll need to get:
Zoom H4N
RedHead windscreen H4N
Shoe mount H4N
Rode NTG2
Rode windscreen
Rode boompole
Headphones
Caprock Anti-moire filters
Fader ND
CPM Shoulder Flyer
Proaim Mattebox
Manhattan HD089b monitor
LCDVF
Manfrotto 055
Canon LP-E6 x2
Transcend 16gb SDHC card x2
Tamron AF 17-50/2.8
The questions is, what else do I need? My biggest concern is the rig, if I only buy the CPM Shoulder Flyer, can I attach all my accessories to it as it is or do I need to buy other parts?
If you have any other tips, bring 'em on.
get the t2i body only (without kit lens), and skip the tamron zoom. get Sigma 30mm f/1.4 for about the same price ... you'll be surprised how much you'll use it. its an amazing lens, here's a highlight of ours/ tokina 11-16mm on the steadicam, and third guy switched between 50mm 1.8 and 85mm 1.8, main was shooting w/ 30mm 1.4 at all times. 30mm/35mm is a must.
Petros Kolyvas
Well-known member
No, the Tamron is a great lens for starting with - decently fast and roughly 3x zoom. In between the 17 and 50 is 30. You'll be set for getting started with just that piece of glass. You can buy primes later and buy/sell as needed, but you'll want more than a 50mm equivalent lens which is essentially what the 30mm Sigma gives you.
