Most awesomess lightkit ....

E

Everts

Veteran
for my 7d with 28-135mm lens and hmc 150
link
285929.jpg


Would this be it ?
These cameras do better and are cleaner with a good amount of light..
I would like to use them for mostly head shots , two person dialogue scenes ......and maybe some greenscreen lighting . I'll probably need more light for that .
And I thought I'd post this here cause nobody is talking about lights anymore these days ...what's up with that ?:)
Any other suggestions are welcome


Thanks,

Everts
 
Having recently used a similar lightkit, I would recommend against it. It all seemed a flimsy and hashed together to me. It can and does work as a very low budget option, but I just didn't like it.

Some other considerations:

1) Silicon chips (as in the 7Ds CMOS chip) like blue light - daylight balanced, really. The set you have isn't a tremendous performer in terms of output, and to gel everything blue nets you even less light. I'd try to find some solutions that are natively daylight balanced - LEDs, Flos, CDM/HMI**, etc.

2) For greenscreen I would definitely want some more big soft sources than I feel that kit can offer.

**Yes, I know, there are issues with each of these. LEDs have CRI and green spikes, Flos can have green spikes and flicker, and HMI is generally expensive.

For the money, I'd personally go with a couple of these or, if you feeling adventurous, these.

Just my opinion, bent by my experiences and needs.
 
I second Cool lights, Richard Andrewski is an awesome individual and makes GREAT products. Affordable HMI's and Fluorescent lights.
 
I would steer clear of pre-built kits. Put together your own light kit piece by piece, buy used, you will get much more for your money and a kit that fits your needs.
 
Everts said:
for my 7d with 28-135mm lens and hmc 150
link
285929.jpg


Would this be it ?
These cameras do better and are cleaner with a good amount of light..
I would like to use them for mostly head shots , two person dialogue scenes ......and maybe some greenscreen lighting . I'll probably need more light for that .
And I thought I'd post this here cause nobody is talking about lights anymore these days ...what's up with that ?:)
Any other suggestions are welcome


Thanks,

Everts
Click to expand...


A 750 watt bulb that most Tota lights use give an F stop of around F4 at 400 ISO at close working distances.

You might need more light than that, you might not, just keep that in mind.

I like the lights, but I would prefer to get (2) Arri 650 fresnels, (2) Arri 300 fresnel
(2) lowel totas, (2) flo fixture china balls, and (2) flolights

Any combination of the above should do you.
 
PaPa said:
that looks about as crap as britek. Fuse? Plz....
Click to expand...

I think its a great light for the cost conscious and a affordable daylight ( expect some green) fixture. It will put out a nice soft light in a compact package for a low cost interchangeable daylight or tungsten cfl/incandescent saving you from having to gel it creating a huge loss of light output.

Whats wrong with a fuse? Its an edison based socket and they know that someone will incandescent bulb it and ignorantly over amp it. For the price its great. And you do realize that similar lowel rifas are used on 'real' movie sets but the cost is 3 times the price of this.

Plz should be held for the 5 minute restart time of cool lights cdm's.
 
Last edited:
dust'n the callipygous said:
this thing looks cool:
http://www.skaeser.com/servlet/the-815/STUDIO-LIGHTING-1600-WATT/Detail

but yeah, Cool Lights are a good way to go if you can
Click to expand...

http://www.skaeser.com/servlet/the-732/900-WATT-EZ-SOFTBOX/Detail

My main concern right now is interviews, headshot ....I do not want to show up with worklamps anymore :) That doesn't mean I've have given up on them.
One thing I love about Lowel is that it so fast to setup ....I do remember losing some light after gelling them out ...

http://www.skaeser.com/servlet/the-732/900-WATT-EZ-SOFTBOX/Detail
I was considering these for a dedicated greenscreen lightsetup... I do need something wider though ...6 meters for the muslin, yeah metric system , that would be around 12'....

And these seem to be great for head shots and some , flolights 500 led .
One thing though if the "led lights" have exceeded their lifetime or got damaged in whatever way do you need to replace the whole unit or just the led's ?
Coollights is out of stock ... I could wait. I think it's better to purchase from one source but it's also great to have so many options.

Lowel totas or ari fresnels and some chinaballs would be good to add to the mix ...SO now I need to budget and make a list.... I will post back .

Thanks a lot guys ....anybodyelse want to share some more tips are welcome.
 
Quick question here: I keep seeing some light manufacturers advertising something like: "Daylight balanced!! (5000K)!!!"

Isn't that like making a car and advertising "Top speed of 100 miles per hour (85mph!!!)"

Isn't Daylight balanced a standard 5600K? Not 6000K, not 5800, nor 5000, nor 5400?
 
Everts said:
That 's one of the things that keeps confusing me .
Click to expand...

Me too. I learned that daylight was 5600. And everything I've used that has been daylight has been 5600. So I'm curious to know if Arri and Mole and so forth have just set an arbitrary standard, or if I learned wrong...

But I can't help thinking that it is actually companies hoping to sell something via less than entirely honest representation...
 
Reasoned it out and am feeling pretty stupid at the moment.

Had to think back to film. Daylight balanced film stock is 5600K, tungsten is 3200K. Those are the hard and fast standards.
 
Last edited:
mico said:
I think its a great light for the cost conscious and a affordable daylight ( expect some green) fixture. It will put out a nice soft light in a compact package for a low cost interchangeable daylight or tungsten cfl/incandescent saving you from having to gel it creating a huge loss of light output.

Whats wrong with a fuse? Its an edison based socket and they know that someone will incandescent bulb it and ignorantly over amp it. For the price its great. And you do realize that similar lowel rifas are used on 'real' movie sets but the cost is 3 times the price of this.

Plz should be held for the 5 minute restart time of cool lights cdm's.
Click to expand...

Mico, go and buy a set of britek lights with fuses, and you will soon learn tha he fuses like to blow for no reason leaving you with a useless fixture.

mind you we found a way to go around that a while back by wrapping the fuse in aluminum foil. It's really a pointless feature.

the plastic is flimsy and will crack easily. If you baby it you will get some decent useage out of it, but be very careful and transport safely. Definitely cannot take ANY type of abuse. I'm coming from experience here. So take these words seriously.
 
Just read the 5 minute cool down comment...

Now, I'm not an expert in lighting. I wouldn't even consider myself well-versed. But I make it a practice not to hot strike anything unless I absolutely have to. It's just rough on the system.
 
Michael Olsen said:
Quick question here: I keep seeing some light manufacturers advertising something like: "Daylight balanced!! (5000K)!!!"

Isn't that like making a car and advertising "Top speed of 100 miles per hour (85mph!!!)"

Isn't Daylight balanced a standard 5600K? Not 6000K, not 5800, nor 5000, nor 5400?
Click to expand...

Natural Daylight has many temperatures during the day. If you're mixing natural daylight with your fixture it could be any number of temperatures from 4800 to 6100 as an example. You would gel your daylight fixture appropriately for that situation. Some DP's are fanatics about it being exactly the same , others don't worry because they look at their shot with their eyes instead of a meter and if they're close enough its not an issue for them. Old or used Hmi bulbs vary in color temperature and if you're renting them you'd spend all day trying to find one thats exactly 5600 if you could find one at all.
 
Last edited:
PaPa said:
Mico, go and buy a set of britek lights with fuses, and you will soon learn tha he fuses like to blow for no reason leaving you with a useless fixture.

mind you we found a way to go around that a while back by wrapping the fuse in aluminum foil. It's really a pointless feature.

the plastic is flimsy and will crack easily. If you baby it you will get some decent useage out of it, but be very careful and transport safely. Definitely cannot take ANY type of abuse. I'm coming from experience here. So take these words seriously.
Click to expand...

We're weren't talking about britek we were talking about Steve Keaser lights. You've used those? So any fixture with a fuse is pointless? Fuses blow for a reason. Having a fuse is a good thing because someone who knows nothing of electricity could screw in a bunch of high wattage incancesdents that the fixture is not rated for and and cause a fire. Pointless it is definitely not . I'm coming from experience here and if you're shoving tin foil to substitute a fuse you're asking for trouble. And how do you know it wasn't safety regulations that mandated the fuse for the fixture. I'm sure that the extra time and money to put it in by the business man making these lights would avoid it if he could. Safety regulations are there for a reason.
 
Last edited:
Michael Olsen said:
Just read the 5 minute cool down comment...

Now, I'm not an expert in lighting. I wouldn't even consider myself well-versed. But I make it a practice not to hot strike anything unless I absolutely have to. It's just rough on the system.
Click to expand...

I am and if you're shooting in a rush situation (and its always a rush situation) and someone accidentally kicks out the power cord of your light or it shuts off for any number of reasons, waiting 5 minutes is not and never will be an option. 5 minutes feels like forever in certain situations. Most new high wattage HMI's have a hot restrike issue that has caused me huge headaches, I never turn them off if I don't have to but there are many factors , some in your control some not, as to why it gets turned off.
 
Last edited:
mico said:
We're weren't talking about britek we were talking about Steve Keaser lights. You've used those? So any fixture with a fuse is pointless? Fuses blow for a reason. Having a fuse is a good thing because someone who knows nothing of electricity could screw in a bunch of high wattage incancesdents that the fixture is not rated for and and cause a fire. Pointless it is definitely not . I'm coming from experience here and if you're shoving tin foil to substitute a fuse you're asking for trouble. And how do you know it wasn't safety regulations that mandated the fuse for the fixture. I'm sure that the extra time and money to put it in by the business man making these lights would avoid it if he could. Safety regulations are there for a reason.
Click to expand...

Use a britek, then come and talk. point finale.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top