HDkilledFILM.
Burnin' down the House
I find that I use the grid to level more often than I use the bubble on my tripod....
T2i Magic Lantern for 550D in progress!
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Samuel H
Major Contributor
Transcend TS16GSDHC10
WS @16k = 2.6 MB/s
RS @16k = 3.2 MB/s
WS @128k = 11.6 MB/s
RS @128k = 12.1 MB/s
WS @16384k = 19.6
I can't use QScale dependable on these cards over -5.
WS @16k = 2.6 MB/s
RS @16k = 3.2 MB/s
WS @128k = 11.6 MB/s
RS @128k = 12.1 MB/s
WS @16384k = 19.6
I can't use QScale dependable on these cards over -5.
Well I'm taking it out on a commercial tomorrow morning. I'm loving the kelvins and the conventional procedure for custom WB.
But the real shot-saver is this latest addition of the Magic Zoom. It's what convinced me to finally, yesterday put in the sleepless night to get up on ML. Setting it for ZF Medium NW with a loupe is just fantastic. The slightest nudge of the focus ring and a nicely-sized zoom square pops in, and it hangs there just long enough after the focus pull to get a quick confirm and disappear. (It would be nice to have a user config for the time it displays though. I might like a longer display in some situations.)
One question on the implementation of rack focus. I am unable to consistently get an accurate automated pull from that feature. Is it taking the same distance data that we see displayed in the ML bottom bar and trying to generate the physical positions of the focus ring based those data? I'm just wondering where the disconnect is between the configuration of the rack focus parameters and the actual rack action.
I'm very excited to use this. You've made the T2i the hottest DSLR on the block!
But the real shot-saver is this latest addition of the Magic Zoom. It's what convinced me to finally, yesterday put in the sleepless night to get up on ML. Setting it for ZF Medium NW with a loupe is just fantastic. The slightest nudge of the focus ring and a nicely-sized zoom square pops in, and it hangs there just long enough after the focus pull to get a quick confirm and disappear. (It would be nice to have a user config for the time it displays though. I might like a longer display in some situations.)
One question on the implementation of rack focus. I am unable to consistently get an accurate automated pull from that feature. Is it taking the same distance data that we see displayed in the ML bottom bar and trying to generate the physical positions of the focus ring based those data? I'm just wondering where the disconnect is between the configuration of the rack focus parameters and the actual rack action.
I'm very excited to use this. You've made the T2i the hottest DSLR on the block!
I'll just share here what you pointed to me. The flicker I was getting was in 720p. In the other HD formats, I have no issues at all with any of the Magic Zoom square size and magnification options you've provided. Thanks.
kgimedia
Well-known member
This is the first time since buying my T2i that I wish I had real Canon glass. My vintage Manual Primes rock, but I like the idea of this new feature very much.
For longer display, use the Zoom In button while recording (it will lock the zoom box on the screen).
The rack focus does not use distance data, since it has a very low resolution (and is not reported by all lenses). It uses motor steps instead (which is a bit better, but still not perfect).
The rack focus does not use distance data, since it has a very low resolution (and is not reported by all lenses). It uses motor steps instead (which is a bit better, but still not perfect).
Firstly, the new magic zoom is bloody amazing. Saved so many shots on my shoot today.
My concern though is audio monitoring. Do you guys find it to be a bit buggy? I have found that if i start the camera with the cable already hooked in then i dont see video on the screen but i do get audio out (its like its sending the video to a monitor) but if i insert the cable afterwards then im good. I have also found that often when i start recording a clip the audio will drop out. Sometimes it starts back up after a second or so, other times it doesn't.
Anybody else having these same problems? I am using the canon av out cable with an adapter like this. I am running audio out of the line out on my zoom h1 which is connected to an azden shotgun.
Edit:
When reviewing the footage, on the clips where i remembered the audio flickering at the start and then getting my headphone feed back i can hear the same thing on the clip. The audio cuts in and then out for a second at the start then levels off and is fine.
I was running at fw default for my bitrate.
My concern though is audio monitoring. Do you guys find it to be a bit buggy? I have found that if i start the camera with the cable already hooked in then i dont see video on the screen but i do get audio out (its like its sending the video to a monitor) but if i insert the cable afterwards then im good. I have also found that often when i start recording a clip the audio will drop out. Sometimes it starts back up after a second or so, other times it doesn't.
Anybody else having these same problems? I am using the canon av out cable with an adapter like this. I am running audio out of the line out on my zoom h1 which is connected to an azden shotgun.
Edit:
When reviewing the footage, on the clips where i remembered the audio flickering at the start and then getting my headphone feed back i can hear the same thing on the clip. The audio cuts in and then out for a second at the start then levels off and is fine.
I was running at fw default for my bitrate.
Last edited:
Chadfish
Veteran
I got that Fiio headphone booster and used the method described by DSLR Film Noob of plugging in the camera's USB to RCA cables. I found you need to have a monitor for that because the camera's LCD goes black. Then I plugged in a monitor and tried to record, but the audio went out. So I'm at a loss... I did not try plugging in after I start recording. So for now it looks like no in-camera audio...
M. Gilden
Canon DSLR Moderator
Chad- when you first boot the camera, it takes a second or two for ML to load, which means the camera will default to using the monitor cables as video out if detected at boot (as treynolds just found out a post above yours).
What you have to do is turn on the camera, THEN plug in your headphone adapter USB, THEN hit record. If the screen is going black, you've already done something wrong.
Trying to really figure out ML. 
Camera keeps shutting off, mostly all the features I have turned off. I can change iso settings but see no change in recording. Is there a good tutorial out there that can help me, at this point I'm ready to uninstall because I feel lost. Any help is greatly appreciated. Running the 3/13 build
Camera keeps shutting off, mostly all the features I have turned off. I can change iso settings but see no change in recording. Is there a good tutorial out there that can help me, at this point I'm ready to uninstall because I feel lost. Any help is greatly appreciated. Running the 3/13 buildAhhhhhh, thanks A1ex. Now how do I keep from the damn camera shutting off. I have a 16g class 6, but I have most the functions turned off. No zebra, no magic focus, etc