F35: Holy smokes, I bought a F35 too

It's on an old thread. Google will take you there. But saving you some time coz I did a recent search for it for Art before he was a member.

2016.01.1336

Downloadable from Convergent Design. Last version that supported 50p ProResHQ after that the DPX update was developed. Problem is that DPX records huge files for 10bit 422 at 50p... but if you need 2-3 shots, the latest firmware works fine for everything else, except 50p ProResHQ. If you want that downgrade to the firmware above.

PEOPLE of the DVXUser... Start using the search function! :tongue:
 
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Also, very helpful to use Google.

Type the key words you are searching for in the google search bar, and the type:

site:dvxuser.com


So, if you are looking for all the times someone references F35 and Codex, you could probably find it with a simple

F35 codex site:dvxuser.com
 
Anyone has a spare arri-style bottom dovetail plate?
And maybe a convergent design SSD? ( yep mine arrived dead from ebay) any size will do I'm just testing right now.
Thanks
 
I just ordered an Elements dovetail, so I'm ok there. I'm still in need of a working Convergent Design SSD. Yes it must be a an original from CD as I'm still on the original firmware which will not recognize the Samsung's SSDs. So anyone has one I'll buy it. Thank you. It could be one of those Utility Drive too. I have samsung 850s just waiting for the right Firmware.
 
This has been a wonderful thread to read so far.
I wanted to weigh in on the SR-R1's functionality, when paired with F23/35.

Aaveum is correct in that it is a great combo, looks and feels like it was meant to be part of the camera and is a cheap solution to 10 or 12bit 444 (at least in my case).

A few things bothered me about the setup though:
- Without proper integration with the camera, not having a run/stop functionality is annoying for handheld or run and gun type shooting and the control panel needs to be put within reach on a noga arm or similar
- At around 30-something watts operation, when coupled with the F23/F35 the camera as a whole starts to chew a bit of power and further reduces the run and gun capability.
- Being thick cast aluminium or magnesium, it weighs quite a bit.
When I had it coupled to the F23 with all the bits and pieces and a zoom lens it was pretty taxing.
- In my experience the SR-D1 driver support is frustrating.
Sony's driver pages list an up to date driver for Mac OS, but it isn't available for download and I never got in contact with the right person or received replies to the many emails I sent to Sony.
I had to resort to installing OSX Mavericks on a dedicated external hard drive for use when wrangling, as 10.13 onwards don't seem to work.
Windows worked ok but I only have a desktop with that, I also noted that the functionality differs between the windows version and MacOS.
This in my mind is still better than using that SRPC networked though.
- I never had a proper mounting bracket for the setup and have had to resort to drilling and fashioning my own which I totally don't have the patience or proper tools for (if I'm honest), but it'll do the job.
Would have been totally simple if they'd just included a normal locking v-mount wedge instead of the proprietary non-locking slip in one.

Aaveum, I'm curious as to what your custom run/stop button is and how it works if you don't mind sharing with us?
 
Hello everyone, I have a jena carl zeiss-shh(Some say it's not a real Zeiss) 180mm F2.8. I really love this thing, I used in my Blackmagic 4K and to my eyes it produces very poppy organic images. I finally got a PL adapter for it in the mail today. It's a Pentacon 6 , Medium format lens. It's about the weight of cat, the big ones. I really love this thing. However it has a Image Circle much bigger than S35, So I loose a gazillion of Stops. Also feels like a telescope. Is there any Focal length Reducer that would help me salvage this gorgeous Glass? Thank you.

https://mjvphoto.com/carl-zeiss-jena-180mm-fuji-gfx-50s/
 
I dont know what the mount native is on the back of that lens but I feel like you need a speed booster type of thing which can reduce the focal length and have the lens fit into the F35's FOV properly. I dont think anything is made for that kind of lens. I feel your pain though..
 
Hey Mike, its Pentacon Six mount. Old German format. I thought of speedboosters but I never heard of one for S35 sensor. There was one for MFT that was close but not really.
 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/114019950997

Please take a look on this item. I just unpacked it...something is not right. Please look at the last picture. What UnHoley crap is this?Where the freak are the mounting holes? Am I being a noob, please tell me I am being a noob. How is this mounted on a tripod? Thanks

You may have to click on see original item. It's a closed listing.
 
Hey Paul, I understand and that is what I was expecting, but please take a look at this plate. There are no holes. None it must either missing a part or it's meant to squeezed by some type of proprietary tripod head. I have no idea.
Any ideas what this thing is? or used to be?

s-l410.jpgs-l400.jpg
 
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Ok, I messed up and didn't see the actual item as you mentioned the auction passed. If you're stuck with that item and want holes put in it for a modest cost, PM me. I have the right gear to put in the threaded holes.
 
***LOOKING FOR F35 FRONT PLATE***
I'm originally a Medium Format Still shooter. I Have way too many lenses to go to waste. I'm going full blown surgery on this camera. I'm going to build a mount with a built in Speed Booster. I'm going to use my F35 strictly for Medium format lenses. I need your help sourcing a Front Plate. Any one? Please. I have built a wooden rig to calculate the image shrink, and it works. I was able to fit roughly 90% of the image circle on a super35 frame. I think that infinity focus also working. All I need is a plate to build and test this. Help.
 
From my calculations the speed booster needs to sit beyond the IR Glass filter. It's certainly possible, I actually made plans to make a speed booster mount using the holes from IR glass filter but you need to remove that glass and make a new one at the back of the speed booster.

Also word of warning, the ribbon cable from CCD to camera rips very very easily. I would suggest getting the plastic tools for taking apart iPhones.
 
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