DVX Scene Settings - In Camera Looks

Help - what has gone wrong

Help - what has gone wrong

Hi!

I´m currently working on a docu about paragliding. But when viewing the material in a 42´plasma it looks like **** -the resolution is really poor!!!
All the settings were set to normal in 24fps interlaced. But V DETAIL FREQ was Thick and I used the squeezemode. Is that why the resolution i so bad???

Cheers

Lars
 
I really appreciate people posting here as well- please fix the previous posts with the pictures missing. It would be nice to print them and take the setting with me when I shoot.
 
fevercity said:
Hey, Gang..... I can't vouch for these as I haven't tried them out. They're borrowed from Marc Levy's post over @ cinematography.com. I've cross-posted my settings there too (GoldenEye, 8Ball, WarmRust, etc.) I wouldn't have made the same choices but here's to keeping this thread alive.


From Marc Levy:
When I've shot with the DVX100B, these are the settings I've used for a "film-look" over and over again. If you want, you can change the chroma level to give you either a more saturated or less saturated image. Also, setting the color temp to -2 or -3 and then manually white balancing can yield a nice warmth that I've used a good bit for day exterior work.

Scene File F5:

Detail Level: -2
V Detail Level: +2
Detail Coring:0
Chroma Level: 0
Chroma Phase: 0
Color Temp: 0
Master Ped: -6
Auto Iris Level: 0
Gamma: Cinelike
Knee: Auto
Matrix: Cinelike
Skin Detail: Off
V Detail: Thin
Gain: 0db
Progressive: 24P
Click to expand...
Would this work well with a 35mm adapter?
 
This may be a dead link, but what's the rule of thumb for shooting with in camera effects?

I ALWAYS crush the blacks in FCP and I shoot with every Scene File set at 0, but I really like the way it looks when the Master Ped is at about -5. Should I should a more untainted image and just fix it in post?

I understand getting a neutral image w/the max amount of info, but shouldn't I light for what it WILL look like?
Thanks guys and gizzles, LL
 
really good writeup but hopefully someone can re-up those missing pictures so we can see them. also anyone have advice on scene files for skateboarding or bmx shooting? outdoor daytime of course.
I'm going towards trying to find a crisper version of the 8ball press high but I'm still new to a dvx and am not sure exactly how to get a crisper image without ruining the image. Any advice would help. I'm going for a realistic, sharp and well toned image. Thanks
 
anyone got any good 30p settings for low light (such as sunset ) something like 8ball but for low light
my footage has been pretty noisy with grain (0gain) in low light
suggestions?
 
Larry:

Have you experimented or come across settings to resemble the blue/grey tint that is featured on the Bourne Identity/Supremacy/Ultimatum series?

I'm looking for something like that (not exactly like it but something with a blue tint) for a short film I want to do.

I grabbed a bunch of paint chips from my local Home Depot too... should I start with a orange tint chip first or something else?

Sincerely,
Dale
 
Does anybody know what scene settings would give you the look of the Transformers film? It has a really cool look and I would like to try to recreate it if possible.

Thanks for any help in advance :)

Thanks,
Virren
 
This is my first post on this website, and I just had to say what a great thread this is for seeing the camera setting results. Keep 'em coming! I just now started using my DVX100A and it seems that the sky's the limit when it comes to this thing.

Wow! :)

And the SG footage I've seen elsewhere on this site is simply amazing. How much $$ do they run?
 
Scene Settings Footage

Scene Settings Footage

I thought I'd get some footage of some of the different settings listed here for my own reference. This was shot on a very warm NYC December day with slight overcast, perfect outdoor winter weather.

Sincere thanks for all the knowledge sharing, from this DVX newbie.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FooxyYpKOSw&fmt=6
 
Last edited:
flimflamfilms said:
Larry,

As a subscriber to this thread, I really enjoy the creativity you show in using different ways to trick the WB, and the looks you get are pretty cool to play with. I've shot some stuff using the looks you describe and have had fun playing with paint chips of my own.

Being new to this whole ability to tweak 'in camera' I'm wondering what the advantages would be to creating these looks in camera as opposed to post. It's fun, it's creative, but doesn't it tie you in to one look? If you shot normally exposed footage wouldn't you have more options in post for what kind of look to achieve?

Lookin' to learn,

John
Click to expand...

I too am wondering the same question... anyone care to put forth an answer?
 
As far as I understand it, any time you put an effect or tweak the footage in any way in post, you're losing some of the information in the original picture... tweak it too much and it won't be as clean as the footage you originally shot. Of course there are always good reasons to tweak footage in post (contrast/brightness/curves/etc.) but doing so in camera makes sure that you get a cleaner image to bring into post.

Obviously there will be varying opinions on the subject. Personally, I'd rather use a scene setting that gets me somewhat close to the look I want in the end product, but not too dark or contrasted or anything, so I still have enough information to work with in post. That way I can do my final tweaking in post, without losing too much clarity.

Hope this helps, I'm no expert, but that's how I understand it.


PS. On the other hand, some people prefer to shoot the flattest image possible to get the most information in camera, and then do all the color balance and contrast settings in post. So, to each his own.
 
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