DIY IndieSlider...

Dumbfounded.

Now I feel really dumb.
Drove out and got the suggested accessories

3/8" Bolts, 3/8" Tap, Tap Hammer

Had to go 20 minutes away to get the tapper..

Get home, unscrew my tripod head and realize the screw is a much smaller diameter.

So few questions.
1) Do I not have a suitable tripod for this?
2) Even if I thread the real, the hole is too big to just screw on the rail...How should I attach it?

Wow. I feel dumb.

Someone is telling me it's actually a 1/4" and 20 thread per inch for smalller tripods.

I have a Velbon DV-7000

Basic idea: (simplifying)

1/4"-20 is consumer mount (small cams)
3/8"-16 is professional mount (big cams)

If your tripod has the smaller 1/4"-20 bolt, you can step that up with an adapter ring called a "bushing". You'll want a 1/4"-20 to 3/8"-16 bushing for that. This would be a good idea for you, since it will hold more weight because it essentially creates a bigger bolt size (well, for whatever a bushing is worth haha) and you won't have to get a titanium drill bit like C2V said to drill a new hole for the smaller 1/4"-20 bolt. I'd suggest chopping the track in half to 1.5' if you want to use it on the your DV-7000 often, so you get reduced weight on the tripod & reduced load on the sides (less flex) when you take your camera out to the extreme ends of the track. You can test it at 1000mm or whatever you ordered first, of course (report back if it works without any flex!). The threaded holes to mount the bolts in are created using 2 parts:

1. Drill
2. Tap

You first drill the hole, then "tap" the threads in. You don't want to use a 3/8" drill for a 3/8"-16 tapped hole because the hole would be too big for you to tap (if the hole is 3/8" already, and you slide a 3/8"-16 tap, there will be nothing to "tap" to create those threads!). So the measurements for the drill bits are:

1/4"-20 tap size = #7 drill bit size
3/8"-16 tap size = 5/16 drill bit size

Since the rail already comes with a bunch of 5/16" holes, all you need to do is pick one and tap it with a 3/8"-16 tap, then slap a bushing on your 1/4"-20 tripod to adapt it for the 3/8"-16 threaded hole that you created. That way your tripod's 1/4"-20 bolt is now a 3/8"-16 bolt (thanks to the bushing adapter) and your track's 5/16" holes are now 3/8"-16 threaded holes (thanks to the tapping). So now they're compatible and you can attach them easily :love4:

Do the same thing to the carriage (sled/platform/whatever) - you can use either 1/4"-20 or 3/8"-16, depending on what you want to attach to it. With your Velbon head, you'd use 1/4"-20, which would include a #7 drill bit, a 1/4"-20 tap, and a 1/4"-20 bolt. If you get a hex head bolt (like in the first post), then you can have something to push snug against the bottom of the carriage's 1/4"-20 hole (this way, when you screw the tripod head down, you can just tighten the hex head up flush against the bottom of the carriage to lock it into place). So let's take that and turn it into steps:

Tripod Workflow:

1. Remove the fluid head from the legs
2. Attach a 1/4"-20 to 3/8"-16 bushing to the 1/4"-20 bolt on the tripod head

Track Workflow:

1. Find a pre-drilled 5/16" hole near the middle of the track
2. Tap it with the 3/8"-16 tap (from the bottom, not the top)
3. Attach the tripod (with the bushing) to the track

Carriage Workflow:

1. Using a #7 drill bit, drill a hole in the center of the carriage (the sled piece)
2. Tap it with the 1/4"-20 tap (again from the bottom up, since we'll be attach the hex bolt underneath first!)
3. Attach a 1/4"-20 bolt (long enough to go through the carriage and allow you to attach the head) into the bottom and screw up until it pops out the top
4. Screw the fluid tripod head to the 1/4"-20 bolt coming out of the carriage and tighten the hex nut underneath with some pliers (you may need to cut off the bolt a bit with a dremel or something to adjust for the bolt length inside the tripod head, so it sits flush on the carriage)

Then just slide the carriage onto the track and rock & roll. Post pics & footage when you're done! You can use a 1/4"-20 hole on the track as well if you'd like (instead of a 3/8"-16).
 
I'm a total newbie but I think I did it.

I have completed the unit thanks to my good friend kaidomac above and his help on MSN.

First, my bad for not unscrewing my tripod head from the start and seeing the tiny little 1/4"-20 bolt.

Oh well life goes on. Who was I to know the instructions weren't one size fits all :-)

I drilled and tapped a new hole about 1/4" from the existing middle hole. I drilled with a 7/32" bit and tapped with a 1/4"-20.

Threaded on the rail and did some preliminary tests to ensure the weight wasn't an issue yet.

Then I drilled my hole for the platform. Same bit and same tap.
Put the platform on the slider and calibrated according to the instructions in the first post. It slides extremely smooth.

Then I added the Velbon DV-7000 head and camera. Did some more weight tests on the far left and far right of the slider...Tried at various levels of height.

I think the camera being so lightweight and the Igus Slider being not too heavy, it works.
Did some preliminary shots in my house with really poor lighting and am uploading them now.

It works. Stoppers are a must. I almost slid my camera right off the end.

Like I said. I just got my camera a few weeks ago and am brand new to all this. I saw the type of shot the slider made and had to make one.

Glad it's done. Thanks Kaidomac.
 
This is a nice tool!
Did anybody come up with a good solution for a slope?
Like a dutch/tilt?

Any info would be great. After page 20 i had to stop reading....

regards,
philip
 
This is a nice tool!
Did anybody come up with a good solution for a slope?
Like a dutch/tilt?

Any info would be great. After page 20 i had to stop reading....

regards,
philip

I keep the rail level (for a nice smooth slide) and just rotate the QR plate in the bottom of the camera 90 degrees. Then you can set your Dutch and slide away.
If I'm understanding your question?
 
I keep the rail level (for a nice smooth slide) and just rotate the QR plate in the bottom of the camera 90 degrees. Then you can set your Dutch and slide away.
If I'm understanding your question?

I´ve read in an earlier post that you use the decline to get a smooth automation.
I was just wondering how you get the camera level again.

cheers,
philip
 
I´ve read in an earlier post that you use the decline to get a smooth automation.
I was just wondering how you get the camera level again.

cheers,
philip

Yes... in the first post you can watch "Graveyard Slide" to see 'slanted' slides (say that fast 10 times!). All I did was extend one of the legs of the tripod and actually tilt the whole thing. You then frame your shot, pull the camera up to the high end of the rail...and let it go. The steeper the angle, the faster the slide.:Drogar-BigGrin(DBG)
 
Has anyone built one of the "shooter" style sliders? Any tips?

Although I already have a 1000mm slider, I just ordered 500mm of rail to build a smaller, more portable unit. (Something that will fit in luggage, etc.)

I'd like to pimp it out to also be a shoulder support like the shooter models. Just curious whether anyone has gone this route DIY.
 
After a bit of thought, and (too) many hours reading this thread off and on, I decided 2 things:

1) I want quick and easy changing from sliding to tripod, and

2) I want to keep my sticks (Sachtler DV-6 head, Miller Solo carbon fiber legs) on the bottom, because the head supports 20 lbs, and the legs spread to ground level, plus it's less gear without a second set of sticks.

I'd have a Sachtler plate on the bottom of the rail.

And a cheap head to go on top of the carriage, i guess a Velbon, or maybe a Manfrotto 701 would be better since it has a level.

But either way, the quick release plate for the head on the carriage goes on the bottom of the camera, but i'd still have to change plates to get the camera back on the Sachtler head for tripod shots, right? Which slightly negates the quick change between slider and sticks.

But does this sound like a reasonable system, Zaza? Or others?
Thanks Zaza!
Chuck
 
Mounting the rail on a QR plate is a great way to go... it adds flexibility to what/how you can shoot, since you can pan/tilt the entire slider as well.

It's helpful, though, to have the tripod head that's on the slider match the head that's on the tripod so that you can interchange quickly.

A note about the 701: it has a leveling bubble, which is handy, but it does not actually level without a bowl. You'd have to get a hi-hat or similar to get leveling out of the head that's on the carriage.
 
Hmmm, I'm on a roll here...
Plates that don't match, and a leveling head that can't level, too funny!
Can't exactly see buying a second Sachtler head for this, that would kinda blow the DIY budget, right?

C2V, do you know if the 8" riser would allow the head to level?
Thanks!
 
C2V, do you know if the 8" riser would allow the head to level?

Are you talking about the Filmtools riser? No. It's a flush mount. Remember, these tripod heads (Bogen 501, 701, etc.) screw onto the half-ball. That is what allows leveling: the half-ball sitting in the bowl.
 
There is an allen screw on the bottom of the lever to the Ball Camera Leveler listed above. Its good to check it periodically. I had mine fall out last week rendering it usless. Luckily I found the screw on the floor. I now carry an allen wrench with my gear just in case.
 
Yup. I just took mine apart and put it back together to get rid of a bit of loose wobble. I find bogen to be like an Italian sports car - It runs superb but needs periodic tuneups and maintenance to keep it running. Lots of little bolts and nuts that need to be tightened snug every once in a while.
 
So the Manfrotto 701 would go on top of the 438 Compact Levelling head which could then go on top of the Filmtools 8" riser (as needed)?

Would the 3 of these on top of the carriage provide a stable foundation, no wobble?


 
> Would the 3 of these on top of the carriage provide a stable foundation, no wobble?

It should be rock solid. I have the compact leveler in between a tripod and a fluid head and it's no problem.
 
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