DIY IndieSlider...

Got mine built. I bought the tap/drill kit and handle at lowes. Make sure you get a handle big enough for the drill size. Some only go to 1/4". Might be better to buy the tap stuff at an auto supply store. I needed the Amazing Hulk to help turn the tap handle but I got it done. I also tapped another hole on the rail next to the recessed hole, so I would have more threads to bite. Anxious to try this out soon. Thanks again for the slider tip.
 
I was thinking about building one of these, and don't get me wrong, they can be very useful, but I found their flaw to be the same as when you use a tripod head on a jib-
You can't make a smooth camera move when you're also moving the "base", same problem with pvc dollies that you can't ride on. When you're walking next to it, it's impossible to get smooth camera panning because you're walking speed will never be steady like the dolly speed.

If you have to pull focus too, forget it. It won't be that smooth.
 
>You can't make a smooth camera move when you're also moving the "base", same problem with pvc dollies that you can't ride on. When you're walking next to it, it's impossible to get smooth camera panning because you're walking speed will never be steady like the dolly speed.

I don't think we're talking about long moves here. This isn't going to replace a dolly but it can replace a jib arm in many cases. We have a jib arm and it's a pain to haul and assemble. Usually I just want a pan or push-in less than 2 feet. and this does that quite well. Look at Zazacast's samples.
 
What is the lemon pledge, anyway??

Is that like dish washing soap??

Won't that hurt the lubrication on slider??

Thanks for answer!!!
 
yeehaanow said:
I was thinking about building one of these, and don't get me wrong, they can be very useful, but I found their flaw to be the same as when you use a tripod head on a jib-
You can't make a smooth camera move when you're also moving the "base", same problem with pvc dollies that you can't ride on. When you're walking next to it, it's impossible to get smooth camera panning because you're walking speed will never be steady like the dolly speed.

If you have to pull focus too, forget it. It won't be that smooth.
Click to expand...

A slider won´t substitute a dolly, but for "spicing up" production value it´s perfect.
 
Attaching a Miller head to my slider _hey engineers

Attaching a Miller head to my slider _hey engineers

My Miller DS20 head has a 2 inch threaded bolt coming out the bottom of a 75mm 1/2 ball. So it's too long to screw straight into the slider block without hitting the rail underneath. Any ideas on how I might do this? I've got a cheapo head that will work but would I like to work with this one. Maybe I need to make a spacer of some sort.
miller.jpg
 
Sneakle said:
My Miller DS20 head has a 2 inch threaded bolt coming out the bottom of a 75mm 1/2 ball. So it's too long to screw straight into the slider block without hitting the rail underneath. Any ideas on how I might do this? I've got a cheapo head that will work but would I like to work with this one. Maybe I need to make a spacer of some sort.
miller.jpg
Click to expand...

Does that half of the ball come off the head?
 
No way that I can see, without some major surgery. One possible solution would be to use a lock nut to limit how far the thing screws down in. But not much mass there to make it firm. I can always use the old head I have but just trying to gear down to the minimum I take on a location shoot. And with that in mind, I may trim the rail down to 34" so it's the same length as my stands and tripod.
 
I've neglected this - actually forgot about this thread for a long time. I'll have some stuff from of our "somewhat modified" ZaZaDIYSlider sometime next week. Mwahahaha!!!

e
 
Sneakle
I'd try for a spacer block or cylinder. Basically an alu block or wide cylinder (could be wood, but it has to be hardwood with wide washers either end) that the center rod would go into and leave just enough sticking out the end of the spacer to be able to bolt onto the platform without bottoming out.

It would have to be wider than the bottom of your leveling ball so as to provide support and have the center bolt pull the assembly downwards, as it was deigned to do, rather than to support the weight of the head and camera, which it definitely was not designed to do.

HTH
Cheers
Chris
 
Chris I think that sounds like a good solution. Maybe a machine shop can make that for me. Or the hardwood block could work if I can find some really wide washers.
 
I'm pretty sure you'll just find a common 3/8" shouldered bolt inside the half-bowl if you break the countersunk bolts that hold the lump together. Then you can substitute a 1½" or whatever bolt for the longer one in your picture.

e
 
the ball comes off. You gotta look for the three screw at the bottom and use a flat head to loosen them. Only then can you turn the half ball and unscrew it. There is a 3/8 bolt holding the 2 together.
 
I don't know guys, I can find no screws holding this Miller together. It seems it was created as one sealed chunk by god. Only thing I can see is that maybe that star shape on the bottom of the bowl might unscrew with a special tool.
miller2.jpg
 
I think you should hit it with a hammer. It won't get the half-ball off, but you'll feel better for a moment.

e
 
Yes Eric, give it a good smack. Or find a large nutcracker.

I've made a hardwood spacer that I think will do the trick to make this work.
 
Ordering the longer shuttle today. The 100mm shuttle is too short for the remote head. 200mm will give me the "wheelbase" I need. The shorter carriage will be good for the standard tripod head, but the 200 will be required for the Varizoom MC100.

e
 
After a couple of days of run'n'gun fun I threaded the rail. I suggest not mounting the rail in the unassisted helicopter style (unless you must impress the girls). High rpm, free spinning mounting now has the rail now sitting loosely on the ball mount, and I'm looking for alternatives. I guess I'll have to drill and tap another hole beside that center hole. I'm a little sad now (but happy is still winning the war), and will be more careful in future.
 
Any one tried using a motor drive?I think i remember someone mentioning it earlier in the thread. I'd like to do some timelapses. I have been doing some research but not sure were to start....
 
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