DIY IndieSlider...

How does this compare to the automation4less sliders ? The A4L sliders come in at 50-80 bucks.
I'm in Sydney so I cant really test it..

http://www.automation4less.com/store/products.asp?cat=1197

Here is the category link

http://www.automation4less.com/store/categories.asp?cat=1194

I know there's another slider thread that used this (do a search here) company. I can't comment as I went with the one I thought best. Also, you have to buy both the rail & carriage. I think you're just looking at the carriage for 40-50 bucks?

Again, I know I saw another thread for the automation4less stuff.

Found the other thread: http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?t=132115
 
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mine just came in today, looks pretty sturdy, I'll try it out as a basic slider to make sure it works well before I attach a motor drive onto it. this company is pretty cool if your builing something to do with robotics, and you're a student they'll give you anything they make for free.
 
mine just came in today, looks pretty sturdy, I'll try it out as a basic slider to make sure it works well before I attach a motor drive onto it. this company is pretty cool if your builing something to do with robotics, and you're a student they'll give you anything they make for free.

Now thats a heck of a deal... I may have to become a robotics student...
 
Thanks Zaza! I mounted mine on top of a smaller tripod head for ease of setup so I had to reinforce the ends with two painters extension poles. The addition of the second head gives me another axis point.

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As you can see I have a HV20.

Here is a video of me testing it:
 
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Thanks for the photos Boulder. The painter poles: good idea for cheap end supports. I've got the parts for mine but haven't drilled yet. I may work on some sort of "spacer" to fit on top of the slider and raise the camera up higher for longer push-ins without seeing the rail. If anybody has ideas on that please jump in.
 
Cool!!

I am waiting my parts hardly..they should arrive in few days..

Thanks for info, again..

:beer:
 
Sneakle,

Just in case you didn't know, the aluminum block is really easy to drill through even with a cordless hand drill. I haven't drilled with metal much so I didn't know how soft it was.

Also, if you just angle it slightly you can do a push in that looks straight without seeing the rail...I don't know if raising it is necessary.
 
Question: For mounting the rail to the legs. The photos show a bolt going down thru the rail into the legs plate. When I take the head off of my legs I'm looking at a male screw bolt that stays with the legs. These legs are a cheaper level of manfrotto so maybe expensive tripods have a female coupling there?
 
After looking again at the photos I think I see. You just spin the rail round and round on the tripod legs bolt until it comes tight?
 
I know this is going to sound nuts... but try spraying some lemon pledge on the rails.

Also, silicone spray is FANTASTIC stuff. 90% of the time lemon pledge is used but silicone spray is actually made for this kind of stuff and even protects the rubber and plastic parts from drying out.


Although I'm not sure what would be the equivalent of lemon pledge around here (anybody knows of an equivalent product in Germany?), silicone does work well. But I have the impression the lemon pledge is probably cheaper.
 
Great thread! Thanks for taking the time Zaza.

Okay, that said, what do you think about a 2/3" camera being used on this track guage

What did you end up building Erik? The same size as Zaza or did you go up to the 200mm rails like Chenopup?
I also want to build one of these and also have a full sized camera and it would be great to know what you ended up going with and what kind of results you’re getting.
Because I'm thinking I may have to go with Chenopup since my tripod head is an O'Connor 50D which is quite big, although not very heavy.
Thanks.

tap and thread each end and screw in a monopod on each, tripod in the center.

Could it work with two light stands on each end and without the tripod in the center too?Thanks.

Sneakle,

Just in case you didn't know, the aluminum block is really easy to drill through even with a cordless hand drill. I haven't drilled with metal much so I didn't know how soft it was.

Also, if you just angle it slightly you can do a push in that looks straight without seeing the rail...I don't know if raising it is necessary.

Well, but in a 39” dolly in, if the rail is slightly angled down you ouch to see a height difference at the end. For a close up cripple for example that may be a little problem.
 
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