About to make my first DSLR purchase... would appreciate analysis.

[refocusedmedia]

Hi... I originally planned to bore you with an introductory paragraph about why I'm finally purchasing a DSLR and "pursuing my desire" and all of that. Instead, I want to cut right to the point to hopefully invite more responses.

I have about $1700+ to work with, and I am 100% set on Canon. I spent weeks debating the merits of T2I w/ lenses and accessories versus used 7D w/ 1 lens and maybe 1 accessory. The 60D was an additional wrench in that internal discussion. The first personal aspect you do need to know is that I'm not 100% sure I want to be anything more than a hobbyist\enthusiast with my camera. Due to that sole fact, I concluded that it makes more sense for me to purchase the T2I with some varying lenses along with some core accessories rather than drop the dime on the "big(ger) boys" just yet. Should this spark inside me turn into a blaze, than I can always sell the T2I body and upgrade at a reduced cost. If not, then I can either sell off the entire package or keep it around as that "one good camera" that every family should have, and I won't feel like I wasted any money or time. The second personal aspect you might need to know is that I while I am very excited about taking up photography, I ultimately intend to use the experience to being my dabbling in filmmaking and cinematography. I feel it is important to understand the technical aspects and basics of photography first however, plus I've always enjoyed photography from a distance. If you feel you need or want more exposition on that, please feel free to request it.

So, with that in mind, please take a look at my suggested purchase options and let me know what you think. One guideline here is that I will be using Amazon (Prime), in one large purchase order... so while I know I might be able to shave $50 here or there by using another website, it's just not an option for me. First off, here is my $500 accessory lineup that I will be adding to whatever order I go with. I am typing it out once and will add the total cost to the purchase options:

$500 Accessory Kit
1. Canon EF 50mm II 1.8 = $105
2. Zeikos ZE-FLK52 3-pc Filter Kit = $8
3. Dolica AX620B100 62" Proline Tripod w/ Ball Head = $41
4. Dolica WT-1003 67" Lightweight Monopod = $14
5. Dolica WB-3592 Camera Case = $25
6. Opteka LP-E8 2000mAh Battery Pack (qty. 4) = $52
7. Canon BG-E8 Battery Grip for T2I = $150
8. Patriot 16GB Class 6 SDHC card (qty. 2) = $70
9. Opteka X-Grip Camera Stabilizer = $35

And, finally, the purchase options:

Option 1 - Kit Friendly Duo
1. Canon T2I + EF-S 18-55 3.5-5.6 IS kit lens = $900
2. Canon EF-S 55-250 4.0-5.6 IS Telephoto lens = $230
3. Zeikos ZE-FLK58 3-pc Filter Kit (qty. 2) = $30
4. Accessory Bundle = $500
TOTAL = $1660

Option 2 - Kit Friendly Easy
1. Canon T2I + EF-S 18-135mm 3.5-5.6 IS UD kit lens = $1100
2. Zeikos ZE-FLK67 3-pc Filter Kit = $15
3. Accessory Bundle = $500
TOTAL = $1615

Option 3 - Body Rogue
1. Canon T2I Body Only = $800
2. Any of the following lenses\filters:
a. Sigma 18-250mm 3.5-6.3 DC OS HSM IF ($479) + Zeikos ZE-FLK72 3-pc Filter kit ($25)
b. Tamron 28-75mm 2.8 SP XR ZL Di LD IF ($499) + Zeikos ZE-FLK67 3-pc Filter kit ($15)
c. Tamron 28-300mm 3.5-6.3 XR Fi LD IF ($390) + Zeikos ZE-FLK62 3-pc Filter kit ($15)
d. Tokina 16.5-135mm 3.5-5.6 AF DX II ($450) + Zeikos ZE-FLK77 3-pc Filter kit ($20)
e. Canon EF-S 15-85mm 3.5-5.6 IS USM UD ($724) + Zeikos ZE-FLK72 3-pc Filter kit ($25) **I would drop the 50mm II 1.8 from the Accessory Bundle to get this one
3. Accessory Bundle = $500
TOTAL = $1705 - $1950

All comments, suggestions, adjustments, etc are more than welcome. I will be making this purchase probably Monday night. Thanks for your time everyone.

 

[Ben_B]

Why the obsession with zoom lenses? With option 3 you could get a great set of primes for the cost of one or two of those lenses.

 

[refocusedmedia]

No obession really, just seem like the most economic sense in terms of ensuring I can practice a wide variety of shots. Excuse my ignorance but how can I get a great set of primes with only $500-$700 to work with for lens purchases?

 

[pianoboy]

If you don't need the autofocus for stills, $500-700 will get you a great set of Nikon AI primes.

 

[Ben_B]

No obession really, just seem like the most economic sense in terms of ensuring I can practice a wide variety of shots. Excuse my ignorance but how can I get a great set of primes with only $500-$700 to work with for lens purchases?

If you don't need the autofocus for stills, $500-700 will get you a great set of Nikon AI primes.

Exactly, go with used Nikons, they work great on the Canons with an adaptor.

 

[Alex H.]

The lenses have been addressed. I'm not so sure I'd trust that tripod you're looking at. $41 does not buy a decent tripod and head. And rather than a ball head, you really need a fluid head (if you are shooting video instead of stills). Whether you move beyond hobbyist level or not, you'll never be happy with pans and tilts on a cheap tripod.

Also, those Zeikos filters may not be a wise use of money. Anything that you put in front of your image sensor is going to affect the image quality, and filters like lenses should have good glass in them. I also find that I don't use the same (or many) filters shooting with my T2i that I did with my DVX. Mostly, I use ND with the T2i when needed.

Your best bet may be to get the camera body with a decent lens kit, extra batteries, and a really good tripod. Plus a sturdy camera bag/case.

And have you even thought about sound? Are you going to be shooting anything where sound will be recorded?

 

[Chris Johnston]

You might want to consider the Canon 17-55 2.8 It 's a little more expensive than some of the other zooms you mentioned and isn't as long, but you get 2.8 through the range on some near L quality glass and IS and auto focus. ( the 3.5-5.6 thing on the kit lens just really really bugs me)

 

[refocusedmedia]

I have certainly considered used glass, but at this point I do not feel confident in my handling or knowledge of lenses to purchase used just yet. I wouldn't know if something was wrong until it was too late. Used glass is something I do intend to consider down the road however, as I've already seen many great values on my local craigslist.

The tripod was chosen due to its ratio of good reviews to price. However, I would be willing to spend up to $100 on a better one if you have any to suggest. A quick search or two reveals that fluid head tripods are "pro" in every sense of the word, especially price. If ball head is not optimal, are there any high quality pan head setups to consider?

As for the filters, I admit I am less than knowledgable there. I see Hoya and Tiffen brand 3-pc sets for around $50, or individual filters from name brands for $15-$30 a piece. Do you have any recommendations?

I have given consideration to sound, but at this point I am not ready to commit to a purchase of anything. That could change over the course of a few months, or immediately, but as of right now I would rather invest in other accessories and lenses while I learn and adjust to this new craft. Of course, if there is a sub-$100 jack-of-all-trades option for decent sound recording, please let me know!

Thanks for all your responses everyone.

 

[saneproductions]

I would just go t2i body only with a tamron 17-50 2.8 VC to start. That will cover you for almost all types of shots. Get a fluid head tripod too. Lived makes some cheap fluid head models that are ok.

 

[Alex H.]

The tripod was chosen due to its ratio of good reviews to price. However, I would be willing to spend up to $100 on a better one if you have any to suggest. A quick search or two reveals that fluid head tripods are "pro" in every sense of the word, especially price. If ball head is not optimal, are there any high quality pan head setups to consider?

You really need to read THIS. Libec and Davis & Sanford both make some kits that are around $200. Some people love them, but even many of those folks admit that these are not kits that are built to last. Bogen also makes some less-expensive kits that are built fairly well.

In all honestly, expect to spend no less than $250, and possibly as much as $500. A cheap tripod is not worth the money... not even as a "quick fix." Buy right and buy once.

As for the filters, I admit I am less than knowledgable there. I see Hoya and Tiffen brand 3-pc sets for around $50, or individual filters from name brands for $15-$30 a piece. Do you have any recommendations?

I wouldn't be so concerned about filters as of yet. Learn what you can do with bare glass, and learn how to get around problems. Once you've mastered that, start buying some problem solvers.

If anything, I'd say get some FaderND filters, just because video on the T2i needs to stay at 1/60 shutter speed if shooting under anything but sunlight (1/50 in PAL territory). That can limit how you adjust your depth of field. ND allows you to control that a little more.

Of course, if there is a sub-$100 jack-of-all-trades option for decent sound recording, please let me know!

There isn't a sub-$100 jack-of-all-trades anything. Sound can cost at least as much as you're spending on your camera, if not more. Just don't expect the T2i to record any usable audio, especially not dialog.

 

[jambredz]

AS c2v says. get a decent tripod. i have http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ...ROVISTA7518B_Provista_7518_Tripod_w_FM18.html and it does well for me so i'm sure it will do ok for you. but just get something decent. I would 2nd getting something like a tamrom 17-50 2.8 (vc) (or sumthing with a bit more range but fast) as the ONLY lens for now...and shoot with that and after shooting some, u can decide what lenes your gonna need after.

 

[refocusedmedia]

You really need to read THIS.

Fantastic post, and I empathize well being from an IT background (and career). I had hoped to NOT come across as one of "those guys", but I guess it was inevitable. I sincerely have zero expectations as I head down this path, other than to have fun and learn a lot. I'm not looking to make any money, gain any notoriety, or shortcut my way to fame and fortune.

That being said, I cant help but be frugal when shopping... however...

Libec and Davis & Sanford both make some kits that are around $200. Some people love them, but even many of those folks admit that these are not kits that are built to last. Bogen also makes some less-expensive kits that are built fairly well.

In all honestly, expect to spend no less than $250, and possibly as much as $500. A cheap tripod is not worth the money... not even as a "quick fix." Buy right and buy once.

...I believe I have been convinced to look into a better tripod. I'm not convinced to drop $250+ quite yet, but I am convinced to lose the $40 one on my list and look more in the $100-$150 range.

I wouldn't be so concerned about filters as of yet. Learn what you can do with bare glass, and learn how to get around problems. Once you've mastered that, start buying some problem solvers.

If anything, I'd say get some FaderND filters, just because video on the T2i needs to stay at 1/60 shutter speed if shooting under anything but sunlight (1/50 in PAL territory). That can limit how you adjust your depth of field. ND allows you to control that a little more.

Interesting... one constant I read about is the necessity of protecting your lens with a UV filter. Is that not a true necessity? I can certainly see the negative of putting cheap filters in front of your image, so I agree with the value of seeing what I can do with a naked lens first before I start trying out filters (especially if theyre going to cost $30+ not $5 haha).

There isn't a sub-$100 jack-of-all-trades anything. Sound can cost at least as much as you're spending on your camera, if not more. Just don't expect the T2i to record any usable audio, especially not dialog.

Oh I know, that was kind of my point. I don't really have a need for audio recording at this moment so unless there's some miracle fix for less than $100 I'm not even going to worry about it for the time being. Sorry if my friendly sarcasm was too subtle, heh.

I am intrigued at the notion of forgoing a telephoto for a really solid mid-zoom. I don't even know what I can do with 3.5-6.3 yet though.. should I really start out with a huge concern that I'm shooting with 2.8 or less?

Thanks for all your help and responses guys, I really am paying attention and appreciating all of it... and purchase day is nearing so I'm getting more and more excited!

 

[Jester2138]

Buy a T2i and a Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8, a $150-250 tripod, and a decent UV filter.

I've shot many shorts with just that (granted, they had no dialogue).

Once you've used that for a bit you'll figure out what focal lengths you like (thus what other lenses you'll want to buy). Some people really like shooting at the long end and do all their best photography there. Some people are the complete opposite.

No one can tell you what lenses you need except you, so start off with a relatively cheap constant-aperture zoom like that Tamron before you go buy anything else.

If you can, get a LCDVF or a Z-Finder.

 

[Disco Robo]

+1 to the Tamron, the VC works for video. These guys know what they're talking about, invest in a few quality pieces instead of a bunch of junk.

I'd argue that an ND filter of at least ND16 is a necessity unless you want to shoot all your daylight footage at f22.

 

[refocusedmedia]

You're talking about this lens, correct?

http://www.amazon.com/Tamron-17-50m...1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1284308758&sr=8-2-fkmr0

I saw some concerns regarding lack of accurate focusing, soft images, and distinct vignetting. Though the more I peruse lens reviews, the more those 3 things seem to be in every single negative comment for every single lens out there that is under $1000... regardless of manufacturer.

The $100 MIR on that lens is appealing though. and it would make it only $250 more than the 18-135 3.5-5.6 IS UD kit that I'm seriously considering. I just don't know enough to commit to a lens is the issue. I see a number of recommended wide zooms to replace the kit lens in the $400-$600 range but I just don't know enough yet or have a good enough "feel" to really commit to one or the other. For every person who recommends the Tamron 17-50 2.8 there is someone who says to spring for the VC, or to skip Tamron all together and get the Tokina 16-50. And so on and so forth.

I think the 18-135 offers me a better quality lens than the standard kit lens, as well as a significantly greater range. This will allow me to try out a number of different shots so that I can further pinpoint which higher quality lenses to invest in down the road. While the aperture isn't optimal, it is sufficient... especially for a noob like me who is needing to just get his feet wet. Of course, the 18-135 could be an awful lens and all my justification could be for nothing.

Lenses are the most nerve-racking aspect of this whole hobby, as far as I can tell... they come at the cost of an entire camera themselves, yet they are the most important aspect of producing your image. Committing to one "super lens" is scary. From an outsider perspective, you never really consider the cost of the lens.. but you don't even bat an eyelash when you see that some cool, fancy camera costs $1000.

I guess what I'm trying to say is, I'm having a difficult time committing to a primary lens (the 50 1.8 is so cheap, that its almost an accessory purchase in my mind). I just don't know enough yet to feel comfortable buying a prime or $700+ lens.

Anyway, thats enough from me for now. Thanks for the food for thought. I'm definitely appreciative of all the responses.

 

[thisisapocalypse]

Curious as to why you are 100% dead set on Canon.

 

[Disco Robo]

That's the lens.

-Accurate focusing is your responsibility. The AF on this lens is definitely not for video.
-Vignetting is not really a concern, but it does have a fair amount of barrel distortion under 24mm.
-Softness could be an issue for wide open shooting with stills but seeing as how we're turning sharpness all the way down and throwing out 16MP I wouldn't worry about it too much.

I'm sure the 18-135 is a fine lens, in fact I've used it and it's leaps and bounds quality wise over the $100 kit lens, but fast zooms as well as primes are always soft wide open. Here are the aperture values of the 18-135
18mm 24mm 35mm 50mm 85mm 135mm
f/3.5 f/4.0 f/4.5 f/5.0 f/5.6 f/5.6

I hope you budgeted for some lights because you're losing .75-1.5 stops within the 17-50 range. I've had lenses that fall off a lot faster than this but for lo/no budget filmmaking it's all about being able to shoot in low light. Not to mention that when you punch in for a close up you're going to have to ISO up or relight because now you've lost a stop.

Keep in mind you can always rent DSLR prime lenses on the cheap. I just rented 5 lenses for a weekend shoot and it was 62 dollars, no L glass of course but nothing slower than f2.8.

BTW the 50 f1.8 is such a cheaply made lens that when you try to pull focus it becomes a tilt shift, I'd avoid it for moving pictures.

Good Luck

 

[PerroneFord]

Oh dear....

Someone invoked the BillyBob post!

Look lwright, you've gotten some terrific advice so far. Let me just add a few things.

1. The T2i is a fine choice. It will take you from beginner to as far as you care to go most likely. I've been shooting almost 30 years, and I use about 1/10 of what the camera can do.

2. Buy a decent tripod. And you're right, you shouldn't buy a $250 one. It will suck and you'll be out a lot of money. Buy a $100 tripod so when you realize how crappy it is, you won't feel like you spent a lot of money. Then go buy the one these guys told you to get in the first place.

3. Take those crap filters off your list. You don't need them, and they will ruin your footage. If you want to buy filters get a set of CLEAR one's from Tiffen or Hoya. UV filters are terrific when you have UV issues. And skylight filters are great when you need to take some blue out. You will NEVER need to that on a T2i. If you shoot film, yes. Digital you want all the blue light you can get. You need a protective filter on each lens, and you need ND filters. Don't buy any kits. The only people that buy them are people who don't know any better. In general any time you see the word "kit" in relation to video, you can assume they are targeted to people who know nothing, because most experienced buyers wouldn't touch the stuff in most "kits".

4. Take that crap 50mm lens off the list. If you want a 50mm buy a Nikon manual prime, or a Fujinon, or Pentax screwmount. You'll spend the same or less money, and get a lens that will outlast you. I wouldn't take that Canon 50 for free. Optically, it's fine. Don't get me wrong. But it's built like crap.

5. Don't be afraid to buy good manual glass. That stuff will outlast us all, and if you want advice about buying some, PM me what you want, and I'll personally shop for glass for you and help you.

6. When you get the camera, learn to take decent photographs. Maybe sign up for a photography course. Stay out of video mode for a while unless you just want to play a bit. Trying to learn to shoot video with no background in basic photography, is like trying to take calculus without knowing algebra. I shot my first video in about 1982. And I still go back to photography now when I am working on new concepts. Just did it last weekend as I took my first ever Macro shots.

Best of luck, and feel free to ask anything. We'll do our best to keep you out of BillyBob status!

 

[refocusedmedia]

Curious as to why you are 100% dead set on Canon.

Mainly because what little experience and knowledge I do have is with Canon. Also, I have a few people I could ask questions to personally, and they are Canon users. I was interested in the new Nikon D3100 until I saw that it doesnt have a 720p/60 option, which is something I definitely intend to use. I don't like the feel of the Pentax models. I guess I could go with Sony or Panasonic, but I just have a preference for Canon that I can't deny.

That's the lens.

-Accurate focusing is your responsibility. The AF on this lens is definitely not for video.
-Vignetting is not really a concern, but it does have a fair amount of barrel distortion under 24mm.
-Softness could be an issue for wide open shooting with stills but seeing as how we're turning sharpness all the way down and throwing out 16MP I wouldn't worry about it too much.

I'm sure the 18-135 is a fine lens, in fact I've used it and it's leaps and bounds quality wise over the $100 kit lens, but fast zooms as well as primes are always soft wide open. Here are the aperture values of the 18-135
18mm 24mm 35mm 50mm 85mm 135mm
f/3.5 f/4.0 f/4.5 f/5.0 f/5.6 f/5.6

I hope you budgeted for some lights because you're losing .75-1.5 stops within the 17-50 range. I've had lenses that fall off a lot faster than this but for lo/no budget filmmaking it's all about being able to shoot in low light. Not to mention that when you punch in for a close up you're going to have to ISO up or relight because now you've lost a stop.

Thanks for laying it out like that. I have not budgeted any lighting into my initial purchase. The reason being is that I fully intend to focus on photography first and foremost. While the eventual goal is to begin dabbling in video, I am not ready to really begin purchasing things like lighting or audio recording equipment. I am trying to get a good foundation to start out with, so I have the best opportunity to learn a wide variety of things is all. Camera, lens(es), filters, tripods, grips.. from what I can tell those are the best basics to start out with for my purposes.

Keep in mind you can always rent DSLR prime lenses on the cheap. I just rented 5 lenses for a weekend shoot and it was 62 dollars, no L glass of course but nothing slower than f2.8.

BTW the 50 f1.8 is such a cheaply made lens that when you try to pull focus it becomes a tilt shift, I'd avoid it for moving pictures.

Good Luck

I did not realize renting lenses was that cheap. Good to know. Also, the only reason I intend to get the 50mm 1.8 is because it is a cheap way for me to experience something completely different (EF mount, wide constant aperature, fixed focal length, etc). Thanks for your response.

Oh dear....

Someone invoked the BillyBob post!

Look lwright, you've gotten some terrific advice so far. Let me just add a few things.

1. The T2i is a fine choice. It will take you from beginner to as far as you care to go most likely. I've been shooting almost 30 years, and I use about 1/10 of what the camera can do.

2. Buy a decent tripod. And you're right, you shouldn't buy a $250 one. It will suck and you'll be out a lot of money. Buy a $100 tripod so when you realize how crappy it is, you won't feel like you spent a lot of money. Then go buy the one these guys told you to get in the first place.

3. Take those crap filters off your list. You don't need them, and they will ruin your footage. If you want to buy filters get a set of CLEAR one's from Tiffen or Hoya. UV filters are terrific when you have UV issues. And skylight filters are great when you need to take some blue out. You will NEVER need to that on a T2i. If you shoot film, yes. Digital you want all the blue light you can get. You need a protective filter on each lens, and you need ND filters. Don't buy any kits. The only people that buy them are people who don't know any better. In general any time you see the word "kit" in relation to video, you can assume they are targeted to people who know nothing, because most experienced buyers wouldn't touch the stuff in most "kits".

4. Take that crap 50mm lens off the list. If you want a 50mm buy a Nikon manual prime, or a Fujinon, or Pentax screwmount. You'll spend the same or less money, and get a lens that will outlast you. I wouldn't take that Canon 50 for free. Optically, it's fine. Don't get me wrong. But it's built like crap.

5. Don't be afraid to buy good manual glass. That stuff will outlast us all, and if you want advice about buying some, PM me what you want, and I'll personally shop for glass for you and help you.

6. When you get the camera, learn to take decent photographs. Maybe sign up for a photography course. Stay out of video mode for a while unless you just want to play a bit. Trying to learn to shoot video with no background in basic photography, is like trying to take calculus without knowing algebra. I shot my first video in about 1982. And I still go back to photography now when I am working on new concepts. Just did it last weekend as I took my first ever Macro shots.

Best of luck, and feel free to ask anything. We'll do our best to keep you out of BillyBob status!

Thanks very much for your reply. I think I've definitely given up on the crap filters. I think I still might get the 50mm 1.8 if for no other reason than I think I need to get a good handle on using regular lenses made for Canon mounts before I feel comfortable installing adapters and buying non-Canon lenses. However, I have had it recommended to me enough times that it is certainly something I intend to do later on down the road.

I had a friend tell me that if I didn't spring the extra couple hundred for the 60D I'd regret it... right after I told him that I had finally decided AGAINST doing just that and simply getting the t2i instead. Now my mind is starting to argue with itself again...

Any t2i user here have large hands? How about hands that easily cramp (carpal tunnel, arthritis, too much gripping of video game controllers or mice and keyboards)? Is the small t2i body a nuisance to your hands after awhile? If you could do it all over again would you drop the extra $200-$300 to have more hand comfort (not to mention any of the additional features)? I know it sounds stupid, but it's honestly my biggest concern lol.

 

[PerroneFord]

Thanks very much for your reply. I think I've definitely given up on the crap filters. I think I still might get the 50mm 1.8 if for no other reason than I think I need to get a good handle on using regular lenses made for Canon mounts before I feel comfortable installing adapters and buying non-Canon lenses. However, I have had it recommended to me enough times that it is certainly something I intend to do later on down the road.

There is no such thing as a "regular lens made for Canon mounts." People remount lenses all the time (usually only for expensive lenses though). There is nothing magic about this. You have glass arranged in a metal (or plastic) tube. Light shines through it. It has an attachment point on the back. Don't make this complex. It's dead simple. If you're determined to buy a cheap Canon lens, at least buy a 35mm or a 28mm. Something that might actually be useful down the road. Or buy that 50mm on Ebay for next to nothing. Don't pay $100 for something that is going to be a dust collector.

Installing an adapter on a lens takes all of 10 seconds, and once it's mounted, it works the same in "video mode" as a Canon lens. In stills mode, the Canon lenses autofocus. Yay.

I had a friend tell me that if I didn't spring the extra couple hundred for the 60D I'd regret it... right after I told him that I had finally decided AGAINST doing just that and simply getting the t2i instead. Now my mind is starting to argue with itself again...

Bah! It will take you YEARS to master all that the 550D will do. Regret buying a 60D. That's funny. By Christmas, the 60D will be old news. Take the money you save NOT buying the 60D and buy a nice lens, or all the filters you'll need.

Any t2i user here have large hands? How about hands that easily cramp (carpal tunnel, arthritis, too much gripping of video game controllers or mice and keyboards)? Is the small t2i body a nuisance to your hands after awhile? If you could do it all over again would you drop the extra $200-$300 to have more hand comfort (not to mention any of the additional features)? I know it sounds stupid, but it's honestly my biggest concern lol.

I have very large hands. Can palm a basketball with ease. If you're holding the camera correctly, your hand won't have any issues. If you hold it with a death grip like most newbies start out doing, you'll be fine. I used to hold my F4s with a grip so loose, the camera was held by only my fingertips. Newbies don't hold $4000 cameras that way!

If I was going to shoot 400-500 photos a day, every day, I'd get a battery grip. I did a portrait shoot this past weekend of my "granddaughter". Shot about 100 photos over 90 minutes. I never once thought about my hand. And for most of that time I was on my 70-300 zoom. It's just a non-issue for most people.