5D MKIII specs

I think it's pretty clear that the quality of the pre-amps in the MIII are not going to be mixer or even portable recorder level quality. They might be decent enough for interviews, but I would really want to know the level at which self noise is apparent. The use of in-camera monitoring is very important however. Working off a headphone jack in either a 3rd party box or through a Sescom splitter cable with headphone amp is not going to tell you what you are getting on the camera tracks. So these are welcome advances.
 
I think it's pretty clear that the quality of the pre-amps in the MIII are not going to be mixer or even portable recorder level quality. They might be decent enough for interviews, but I would really want to know the level at which self noise is apparent.

juicedlink preamps are nice and quiet.
 
Why the need for headphone volume if you're adjusting the input mic volume? What you hear is what you get. Pretty sure Canon made it that way and with the meters to read confidence from. Just be glad for internal monitoring. For set up controlled shooting, stick with dual sound anyway. In fact, hire a sound guy if you can. It's not just this microphone is good and that ones cold. Go stand in a recording studio and watch the tech set up the mic for the guitar amp on the big ole' sound board. Then, he'll dial in the piano, the bass amp feed, the 8 mics on the drums. Takes days for them to set this up.... Point is, you can make a $10,000 mic sound like crap if you don't know what you're doing. But you can also make a $100 mic sound like a $1500 mic if you do know what you're doing.
I don't fully understand sound science for recording. I play guitar and can warm my fender or tell my guild is cold in that or this amp. For me, if it's a job and the budget allows, I call up a sound dude.
I should just take my mixer and recorders out with no cameras at least twice a month and just record sound in different environments.

My projects are simple enough to shoot sound in-camera, which can be pro quality if you have enough input gain to hit -12dB with camera volume at 1. If I need ultra quality, I can record 24/96 separate audio (location) or 24/192 in my studio/office. I'm also a sound guy (designed and wrote the software for Myspace Music's online Karaoke product (custom plugins doing audio DSP and HD video capture)). I've got booms+stands, shotguns, and a wireless kit which so far I can handle timewise to set up and work as expected. Filmmaking is a side business; spend most of my time as a software architect. Also play guitar (Ibanez, Martin), keyboards (Kurzweil), and write basic stuff on a sequencer (Reaper, Logic). I used to write video games- sound effects production was really fun. Haven't worked on it in a while, here's the last game (simulation) I created: http://brightland.com/w/amazing-curves-racing/ (custom physics, audio from a car I used to drive, etc.).
 
My projects are simple enough to shoot sound in-camera, which can be pro quality if you have enough input gain to hit -12dB with camera volume at 1. If I need ultra quality, I can record 24/96 separate audio (location) or 24/192 in my studio/office. I'm also a sound guy (designed and wrote the software for Myspace Music's online Karaoke product (custom plugins doing audio DSP and HD video capture)). I've got booms+stands, shotguns, and a wireless kit which so far I can handle timewise to set up and work as expected. Filmmaking is a side business; spend most of my time as a software architect. Also play guitar (Ibanez, Martin), keyboards (Kurzweil), and write basic stuff on a sequencer (Reaper, Logic). I used to write video games- sound effects production was really fun. Haven't worked on it in a while, here's the last game (simulation) I created: http://brightland.com/w/amazing-curves-racing/ (custom physics, audio from a car I used to drive, etc.).

YES.. You then know 60% of film making! I need to spend more time learning sound. With Dslr's I usually record dual, but try to get quality out of the camera just incase (and back up) and if the in cam sound somehow is better, I have it. I'm off the the Apple bookstore to get sound for dummies. Great sound makes ALL the difference...
 
How many of us keep dropping hints on the boards? Haha. I'll stop before someone tells me I'm Jannarding. xD Teehee

The invitations are out - not long before the cat is out of the bag.

We've always known the Canon video division is awhile behind the 8 ball - seems the EOS-C... not so much.

EDIT: And NO I was not petting my C300 whilst I typed that.
 
YES.. You then know 60% of film making! I need to spend more time learning sound. With Dslr's I usually record dual, but try to get quality out of the camera just incase (and back up) and if the in cam sound somehow is better, I have it. I'm off the the Apple bookstore to get sound for dummies. Great sound makes ALL the difference...

Sound is the hardest part...you can exclude just about anything from a frame....you can't block out sound....not easily anyway....try shooting under a flight path or next to the ocean...nightmare!
 
Re: PB's review. I was trying to make this point earlier. I make no claim to know much about video and I always bow to the expertise of established filimmakers. However, I did foresee the point PB is making. I think the articfact free soft video from the 5D mkIII is ideal for applying sharpening to. It may also have other advantages.

This was the point I was trying to make about sharpening earlier. I did start to write a longer post about my experiments with sharpening, but I thought most might not be interested. The main point though is that if you have a very soft, but artifact free image, you can apply far more sharpening than you otherwise could. However, it needs a change of thinking, a paradigm shift. What needs to be done is lots of experimentation with different sharpening regimes. There is no sharpening setting that will work will all images. It depends on image contrast, resolution, and things like highlight clipping. Experiement with very fine pixel radius settings i.e less than 0.5, especially where there is fine detail in the image. Whereas very large pixel radii boost micro contrast and this creates the impression of a far sharper image when viewed at a distance. However, large pixel radii sharpening needs to be applied very subtlely. All artifacts need to be removed including noise prior to applying it, and often afterwards. I have found that several passes of sharpening at different pixel radii can be better than one. Finally, it is best to apply sharpening to a flat image before applying any other tonal adjustments or grading. This is because sharpening can clip highlight areas. So if you clip the highlights first, applying sharpening after will result in an ugly over-sharpened look. All of what I said is drawn from stills image experience, but I think the principles with video will probably be the same.

My experience is bringing out detail in high magnification macro still images shot at small apertures and with a lot of diffraction softening. This is an example of what I can do below. Whilst the nominal aperture is f11, the effective aperture is probably f50 or more. The out of camera image had serious diffraction softening. However, I was able to bring out a lot more detail with aggressive sharpening, without it looking over-sharpened. I had to invent a whole new light diffusion system for this. Whilst it is not really relevant to the 5D mkIII discussion, what is relevant is the creation of a primary artifact free image, which allows much more aggressive sharpening to be applied.
http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6189/6043618893_ab41e4c8f6_o.jpg
 
The invitations are out - not long before the cat is out of the bag.

We've always known the Canon video division is awhile behind the 8 ball - seems the EOS-C... not so much.

EDIT: And NO I was not petting my C300 whilst I typed that.
If this new 4k camera is cheaper than your C300, like a lot of folks think it will be, does that bother you? Seems odd to me that they'll be announcing this so soon after the C300. Perhaps they were taken aback at how Red stole their thunder. I read on Canon Rumors that they are also working on an entry level full frame- well, as entry level as a Canon full frame can be. Maybe something like $1,999? Seems like Canon is releasing a bunch of higher end gear all of a sudden.
 
entry level with 5D3 image, 5D2 stills AF, swivel screen at price of no weather sealing (or just worse), for $1999, and I'm in
 
Btw, did anybody else catch this? http://vimeo.com/39147880 James Miller's music vid shot on MkIII using lens whacking technique. I was pretty impressed with the image and it's available for download.

Was pretty disappointed with this camera until I saw this video and PB's review last night. Now I'm gonna wait until NAB but if the cinema cam is too $$$, I might pick up a MkIII after all.

That said, color me perplexed by how Canon has marketed this camera, video-wise that is.
 
So I did a double check by from Bloom's review download link and watched it on the 1080p big screen.

Seeing the sharpened footage INDEED is very high resolution.
Addressing my knee jerk reaction to the C300, it's not AS 100% resolute, but it's pretty close and definitely comparable when working with both files in editing. It's not as drastic a difference as it was w/ the MKII or 7D/60D. Not even close. But, you could cut this w/ 1080p Red or C300 footage and it wouldn't be very apparent (sharpened, of course).

This may end up being my go to HD camera again, once I see off some of this older camera gear to create a self imposed rebate :)

Here's another thought: what would this footage have looked like if it were with Zeiss, Nikkor AI and or Leica glass? Unless it was, which would help explain even further, was he using the Canon L glass as shown in the review?
 
Just a friendly reminder.

Stay on topic. Remember what the OP asked.

This is a thread is directed to the 5D MKIII specs.

Thank you.
 
I'm gonna wait until NAB but if the cinema cam is too $$$, I might pick up a MkIII after all.

Keep in mind that these are back-ordered so even if you place an order today, you won't get it until at least May. Buy from Amazon and you won't get charged until they ship it...meaning you can cancel your order if something more attractive is announced at NAB and if it's availability fits your timeframe.
 
Keep in mind that these are back-ordered so even if you place an order today, you won't get it until at least May. Buy from Amazon and you won't get charged until they ship it...meaning you can cancel your order if something more attractive is announced at NAB and if it's availability fits your timeframe.

B&H has the kit in stock at the moment.
 
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