T2i Why can't I ever get the blue of the sky right?

A

altar

Active member
Hi all,
Big noob problem:
I probably set the camera wrong, but when shooting a scene (not the sky specifically), the blue of the sky is always faded. To get the sky color right, I have increase exposure (or shutter speed to the max)
Is that what filters are made for?
Thanks for your advice
 
If you want saturated skies and detailed clouds, you need to work with polarizers and/or graduated NDs. Current video cameras don't have the dynamic range to properly expose what's below the horizon with what is above it -- the range of stops is simply too great. The polarizer is going to bend light in such a way that the sky will render the color you're looking for, but won't solve the dynamic range issue.
 
Thanks, I need to try these filters out to see exactly which one I need.
I suppose that it's impossible to get the colors back in post since what's overexposed is lost right?

P.S. Oh wow, you're a pro! Checking out your IMDB profile :)
 
I'm practicing the crafts...pros never stop learning. I tend to shoot clean, but for color and exposure I always try to do whatever I can in-camera. You can get a lot accomplished in post with today's tools, but it's an expensive and time-consuming proposition.

The pola is going to give you those colors you're wanting. The angle of the sun to the subject does affect the outcome, so keep that in mind. The polarizer is also going to allow you to shoot through windshields, glass and water with reduced reflectivity.

The graduated ND is going to bring the level of the sky down to an exposure better matched to the foreground, but won't necessarily help with saturation / perceived contrast in the sky.
 
Chances are you may need a graduated ND - they come in several "flavors" but essentially they have ND up top and it fades to clear at the center. The amount of ND is measured in stops, 1/2. 1, 2 and even 3 being somewhat common. Also the "hardness" of the fade is variable, from a very soft fade to a harder transition.

So, you need a lot of pricey 4x4 glass filters and a matte box, right? Not necessarily - with the compression Canon adds to footage, even the cheap chinese ebay circular ones may be fine - most certainly better than nothin'. (I shot a TV spot a few weeks ago and the only filter that really worked for a scene on the water was a cheapie in my stills bag - just avoid the plastic ones and get glass.) Get the size to fit your biggest lens, and get step rings for your smaller lenses. You'll need some sort of shade or matte box - a rubber shade sized for the biggest filter should work out - better than nothin'. Bring a few black cards for extreme conditions and hold them up to block flare.

One caveat - the small sensor and crop factor of the T2i will often make the "soft fade" filters all but useless - since almost all of the added density will be out of your crop.
 
Erik Olson said:
The angle of the sun to the subject does affect the outcome, so keep that in mind.
sky.
Click to expand...

This is true. A good test to study is find a clear blue sky and shoot a slow 360 degree pan. You will find that depending on the angle of the sun reflecting light off the sky will greatly darken the blue at some angles while having no effect at other angles. Something you will have to experience for yourself because it will vary in every situation. This will help you be able to find the best angle to point your camera when setting up a shot. Then just practice for a few years and you will get it nailed.
Graduated NDs are tricky because the can be very obvious even in locked off shots. Camera moves with grads are even harder to make look natural. Best to work with the PL and straight ND
filters to knock down exposure on skies. Also try adjusting your white balance. Depending on the subject you may be able to shoot to more of a blue cast for your sky that may work with other elements in the shot. Just experiment and study your results side by side and you will answer your own questions.
 
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