T2i Which stabilizer has prevailed for the tiny t2i?

Spartacus

Spartacus

Veteran
I have a Glidecam smoothshooter for my HVX, but for the t2i it just seems like overkill (even without the vest).
One good reason for the t2i is its portability and I´d like to think of it as my stick-it-in-my-backpack-movie-making-machine.

So, has anything prevailed as the you-don´t-need-more-than-that-it´s-as-smooth-as-it-gets solution?
Like the Manfrotto Modosteady?
Or the Steadicam Merlin?

Stillmotion uses the Flyer with the 7D and it surely is the best out there for smaller cams like the HVX, but is it really needed for something as small and lightweight as the t2i?
 
Nice, looks like a small version of my Glidecam!
Hm, the Merlin has a hefty pricetag, but the name Steadicam just makes it so appealing...
 
At the time I was looking to buy one, most people complained about the way the weight system works and how it is adjusted on the Merlin.

On the blackbird, first thing I did was use the gimbal extender to push the camera farther up from my hand. Then, this allows me to add more weight to the system. The beauty of the sliding T-bar is it is VERY easy to get the balance exactly as you want it AND to quickly make changes depending on the scene you are doing. Sometimes I fly with more weight on the bottom, sometimes less.

Additionally, the pushing of the weight to the outer edges of the bar really helps with the moment of the unit. It's something you have to use to understand, but for me, I can really go crazy with this thing and it stays balanced pretty easily.

There is also a friction control on the gymbal that actually works as a dampner if you fly with different weight ratio settings, again, something that has to be experienced to see how it feels. I actually leave a little resistance on there most of the time.

The only think I have talked with the manufacturer about is I add a manfrotto plate to the top for a quick release of the camera in an EXACT position. It comes with a quick release plate and markings to help you get exactly back, but I wanted a little more weight on my 7D and it worked perfect.

We are actually picking up 2 more units for the third part of our parody series as we were so happy with how they performed, we are going to use them even more.
 
Hm the only thing readily available here is the Merlin.
Of all the above mentioned it also seems to be designed the best for easy transport and use.
But some of the others are just at a more attractive pricetag, I cannot believe that non of the mattebox/rig/accessories manufacturers have come up with the ultimate VDSLR stabilizer!?
Or at least
This one also looks well thought through, but also is on the pricey side:
http://www.abc-products.de/german_09/hm_clipgo_09.html
 
If you were to try all the systems using the same camera, with the rigs all properly setup, the Merlin will show that you actually do get what you pay for. Pricey yes, but if you look at the static weights of all the rigs, and the adjustments possible, and factor in the gimble, the Merlin is the best.
The others all work, since they're all based off Steadicam designs, but they all have limitations, but if your pockets aren't deep they are attractive. The problem is, as you get better at flying them, you will still eventually buy Steadicam.
 
Pookie said:
If you were to try all the systems using the same camera, with the rigs all properly setup, the Merlin will show that you actually do get what you pay for. Pricey yes, but if you look at the static weights of all the rigs, and the adjustments possible, and factor in the gimble, the Merlin is the best.
The others all work, since they're all based off Steadicam designs, but they all have limitations, but if your pockets aren't deep they are attractive. The problem is, as you get better at flying them, you will still eventually buy Steadicam.
Click to expand...

Actually, that is not entirely true :) The blackbird is similar in design to the Merlin, but in my opinion, a better design.

One thing the Merlin has is that it does compact down smaller for portability. But given I bought the EVERYTHING package for the blackbird, I did a lot of research beforehand on both of them AND watched as many videos about both of them I could find. If I was to do it all over again, I'd buy the blackbird in a heartbeat. I really love the design and it didn't take me long AT ALL to both get the unit balanced easily, especially changing lens often, and to be flying around with it getting smooth shots.
 
ajcourtney said:
and this is crucial IMO with these DSLRs. I also own the BB and agree 100% with your assessment.

Incredible work BTW - I'm an instafan!
Click to expand...

Thanks! Ands yes, I was AMAZED how fast you can balance the BB. For example, we needed to do some scenes outside, I popped on an ND filter and some step up rings, time to rebalance, which was simple.

And of course, me forgetting to remove my lens cap, rebalance :)

With the sliding plate design, once you find the right hole on the plate, adjusting the center of gravity is SO easy when you change even from a small lens to a big lens. Luckily, they made their plate long enough to have that freedom.
 
This is probably a dumb question, but are you able to manually focus the camera while it's balanced like that, or do you just set it to auto focus, or maybe some level of fixed focus?
 
Peckhammer said:
This is probably a dumb question, but are you able to manually focus the camera while it's balanced like that, or do you just set it to auto focus, or maybe some level of fixed focus?
Click to expand...

there are many varieties of follow focus systems, it'll be easier to just show you a picture rather than explain it, so here you go

stubling.jpg
 
not a dumb question for sure. I don't have any type of remote control follow focus and all of my lenses are fully manual primes. So what I do is preset my focus with a moderately stopped down aperture for leeway (if ambient light permits) and try to maintain equal distance between me and the subject(s) by moving laterally with the subject(s) or pacing myself with the subject(s) to maintain equal distance. Obviously the running up kind of shots won't work at all if you're also trying to achieve a shallow DOF.

http://www.vimeo.com/12628726

password is mandi

you can see this @ 3:53 - end. This was with a 28/2.8 wide open, so the lens helped quite a bit too, although I was very close to them which helped blur the background.
 
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ajcourtney said:
not a dumb question for sure. I don't have any type of remote control follow focus and all of my lenses are fully manual primes. So what I do is preset my focus with a moderately stopped down aperture for leeway (if ambient light permits) and try to maintain equal distance between me and the subject(s) by moving laterally with the subject(s).

http://www.vimeo.com/12628726

password is mandi

you can see this @ 3:53 - end. This was with a 28/2.8 wide open, so the lens helped quite a bit too, although I was very close to them which helped blur the background.
Click to expand...

Not dumb at all. I do this as well. I track the subject as close as possible. I've done F1.4 as well, but it really depends on how far the subject is from you on how difficult it is too keep them in the range. All manual focus as well.
 
ajcourtney said:
what I do is preset my focus with a moderately stopped down aperture for leeway (if ambient light permits) and try to maintain equal distance between me and the subject(s) by moving laterally with the subject(s) or pacing myself with the subject(s) to maintain equal distance.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the answer. That seems like a practical approach and your results are very good. For those that do use some kind of follow focus, it's hard for me to imagine managing the camera on a blackbird stabilizer, moving, and still being able to focus on the fly without a camera assistant. I am sure there someone out there who can do it, though.

BTW, was that wedding vid shot on a DSLR?
 
most of it on a 550d i borrowed from the person hired to take the stills, LOL.

you can't have things hanging from the camera and maintain perfect balance. like grimepoch said, even a meaningless lens cap will throw off proper balance. everything needs to be locked down and cannot be allowed to move around.
 
Yep, which is why I use primes more than zooms that shift weight, although most of my zooms that I use aren't bad.

The other thing to remember is with a hand held design, you are using BOTH hands to control the stabilizer. One hand holds the handle, the other hand controls the ring above the handle. Both the blackbird and the merlin work this way. For the other style, like the glidecam 4000, your hand controls the shaft. This second hand is used lightly.

I would not expect to be pulling ANY focus on a stabilizer. :) Assistant or not.
 
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