What lens is best to use with a steadicam to shoot wedding receptions? I was thinking about going with the canon 50mm f1.8 because I'm somewhat on a budget. I'm afraid it's going to be a little narrow and hard to keep focus while on a steadicam. The widest canon lens I could rent is a 28mm. Thinking about just renting.... What are y'alls thoughts?
Which lens to use with steadicam?
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homestar_kevin
Well-known member
28 will work, and look good, but it really depends on what you're looking for out of the scene/shoot.
Something wider would be very nice for certain shots.
The Tokina 11-16 2.8 is considered the best wide angle, and is pretty much the standard glidecam lens.
It's very very popular, you should be able to rent it most places.
Something wider would be very nice for certain shots.
The Tokina 11-16 2.8 is considered the best wide angle, and is pretty much the standard glidecam lens.
It's very very popular, you should be able to rent it most places.
Stay below 50mm. A lens that long, or longer, will not only make it harder to keep focus but will also enhance any shake or wobble you might encounter.
As Kevin mentioned, 28mm is a decent focal length but it does depend on what you're wanting. I'll second the Tokina 11-16mm as a great lens for stabilizer work, but know that a lens that wide is going to have barrel distortion around the edges. Much less (hardly noticeable) at 16mm, but still... that could work for you, or not. Plus, it sees a lot (very wide frame, harder to get close in). It's also easier to keep focus, especially at larger apertures, since there's not really such a thing as shallow DOF on a wide lens like that.
As Kevin mentioned, 28mm is a decent focal length but it does depend on what you're wanting. I'll second the Tokina 11-16mm as a great lens for stabilizer work, but know that a lens that wide is going to have barrel distortion around the edges. Much less (hardly noticeable) at 16mm, but still... that could work for you, or not. Plus, it sees a lot (very wide frame, harder to get close in). It's also easier to keep focus, especially at larger apertures, since there's not really such a thing as shallow DOF on a wide lens like that.
Between 16mm - 24mm is the sweet spot on a crop cam, IMHO. As you go above 24mm it becomes exponentially harder to keep steady enough for useful footage. I can't do it at all with a 50mm.
As others have suggested, I also get spectacular results at 16mm on the Tokina 11-16mm. It's just so much easier to keep in focus and get that buttery smooth image. You don't need such shallow depth of field when in motion, because the background is blurred and panning with the subject sharp and in frame properly.
A lot of it depends on your skill with the stabilizer. I'd like to think I'm pretty good at it and I still have great difficulty with a 28mm and up. By 50mm it's just not that much fun anymore. I'm in awe of some of the stuff these pro steadicam guys can get with longer lenses, but I don't want to have to spend that much and work that hard
Cheers,
Pete
As others have suggested, I also get spectacular results at 16mm on the Tokina 11-16mm. It's just so much easier to keep in focus and get that buttery smooth image. You don't need such shallow depth of field when in motion, because the background is blurred and panning with the subject sharp and in frame properly.
A lot of it depends on your skill with the stabilizer. I'd like to think I'm pretty good at it and I still have great difficulty with a 28mm and up. By 50mm it's just not that much fun anymore. I'm in awe of some of the stuff these pro steadicam guys can get with longer lenses, but I don't want to have to spend that much and work that hard
Cheers,
Pete
Rick Burnett
Section Moderator
I use my Sigma 30mm F1.4 almost always on my stabilizer.
JoeJITSU
Veteran
On a 7D? 11-16mm Canon
thinking of the sigma 24mm f1.8, want to get that extra help when shooting low light wedding receptions. But not sure if the 24mm is wide enough to use with ease on a steadicam? Have also thought about the bower 14mm 2.8, but I then compromise aperture. Trying to keep the price around $450. Anybody have any ideas?
Rick Burnett
Section Moderator
I use 30mm on my stabilizer ALL the time and no issue. Before buying a lens, just use the stock lens you have if it's like an 18-+ and try it at different settings. You'll get an idea if you like it.
The problem with getting to low, like 15 and below, is perspective distortion starts to become a big issue in moving shots. To me, it's a neat effect, but too much of it takes away from the flow of the image.
The problem with getting to low, like 15 and below, is perspective distortion starts to become a big issue in moving shots. To me, it's a neat effect, but too much of it takes away from the flow of the image.
Rick Burnett
Section Moderator
Cropped...7D originally and then the FS100 now (which is just a tiny bit bigger than APS-C)
Rick Burnett
Section Moderator
Shooting on a t3i, the weight of the lens is only going to help you. On my 7D, I added weight because I wanted to increase the inertia on the camera side more. The heavier you can make it, the more stable it will be and resistant to wind.
Shooting indoors, for light reasons, I love having F1.4. Note, if you are filming a lot of close to you stuff, then the focus can get tricker. But, if the area is big enough so you can focus out further, F1.8 is not going to be a problem (I use the Sigma 30mmF1.4). Some people shoot around F4 to get a deeper focus with a stabilizer, but I don't. It really depends on what you like. Since I do narrative, if I miss the focus, I can reshoot if needed.
I don't buy ANY lenses slower than F2.8 anymore.
Shooting indoors, for light reasons, I love having F1.4. Note, if you are filming a lot of close to you stuff, then the focus can get tricker. But, if the area is big enough so you can focus out further, F1.8 is not going to be a problem (I use the Sigma 30mmF1.4). Some people shoot around F4 to get a deeper focus with a stabilizer, but I don't. It really depends on what you like. Since I do narrative, if I miss the focus, I can reshoot if needed.
I don't buy ANY lenses slower than F2.8 anymore.
G
Guest
Guest
Observations are based on crop sensor cameras. Lens lengths are not referring to zooms, just what the effect is in a given range. There are lenses that can cover what you need.
11-16mm
You almost don't even need a steadicam. These will make your flying much easier. The trade off is that it is some what of an 'effect' lens, meaning it has a hyped unreal look when moving about. Very popular in sidelines sport steadicam work.
18-24mm
These are still very wide, but get you a slightly more normal look. It may be a good beginner length. I don't use it often, as it is a bit mild - meaning, not compressed, and on the other side, no too effecty (that's an intelligent word if it makes sense)
28-35mm
These are very nice compressed wide lenses, and begin to look "cinematic". They actually have very different effects, and depends entirely on content, of course.
The 28mm is a good all-rounder. It can cover just about anything. In that sense, it can also be a bit boring. But that doesn't decrease its importance.
The 35mm is beautiful looking on a steadicam/glidecam. But you start getting cramped, and balance and flying technique begin to become more critical.
40-55mm
Now these start to get unwieldy. Yet, I find this range to be very useful.
70-85mm
Not very popular for the new operator, but these make great shots if you can get the balance and technique right. (and have an incredible 1st AC)
100mm and beyond...? I don't see the point, but that's only because I haven't had a reason yet.
My suggestion to a beginning glide cam operator is to use the stock 18-55mm lens until you know what works for you. That covers the entire most useful ranges, and if you are a beginner than, you probably don't want to be shooting at f2.8 anyways, because you most likely won't have a remote follow focus and a good 1st AC.
11-16mm
You almost don't even need a steadicam. These will make your flying much easier. The trade off is that it is some what of an 'effect' lens, meaning it has a hyped unreal look when moving about. Very popular in sidelines sport steadicam work.
18-24mm
These are still very wide, but get you a slightly more normal look. It may be a good beginner length. I don't use it often, as it is a bit mild - meaning, not compressed, and on the other side, no too effecty (that's an intelligent word if it makes sense)
28-35mm
These are very nice compressed wide lenses, and begin to look "cinematic". They actually have very different effects, and depends entirely on content, of course.
The 28mm is a good all-rounder. It can cover just about anything. In that sense, it can also be a bit boring. But that doesn't decrease its importance.
The 35mm is beautiful looking on a steadicam/glidecam. But you start getting cramped, and balance and flying technique begin to become more critical.
40-55mm
Now these start to get unwieldy. Yet, I find this range to be very useful.
70-85mm
Not very popular for the new operator, but these make great shots if you can get the balance and technique right. (and have an incredible 1st AC)
100mm and beyond...? I don't see the point, but that's only because I haven't had a reason yet.
My suggestion to a beginning glide cam operator is to use the stock 18-55mm lens until you know what works for you. That covers the entire most useful ranges, and if you are a beginner than, you probably don't want to be shooting at f2.8 anyways, because you most likely won't have a remote follow focus and a good 1st AC.
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starcentral
Veteran
old post, but nice summary James
Felipe Henao
Well-known member
Use STM Lenses with a T4i or a 70D, at this point 18-55 STM or 18-135 STM have done a great job with my steady tracker, using 18 mm
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