Which is the best settings to achieve the best possible picture with a Canon 60d?

C2V said:
Except that anything other than 1/60 under synthetic light (especially HMI and floros) is going to cause strobing. In PAL country, that's 1/50. The 180º shutter rule is just fine under natural light, but anywhere else it needs to be matched to the electrical system.
Click to expand...

So your saying the double rule only works in outdoor and natural light. What if your shooting with a softbox 3 point lighting setup. (5600k)?? Please explain this in noob language. lol
 
The difference between 1/50 and 1/60 for 24fps is hardly noticeable, so don't feel like you're ruining the image by switching between them if you have to due to the light strobing crap. Do some test shoots if you don't believe me, you will hardly notice the difference. Obviously 50 is ideal since it brings in more light and technically provided the proper motion blur amount.
 
Last edited:
Rayden said:
So your saying the double rule only works in outdoor and natural light. What if your shooting with a softbox 3 point lighting setup. (5600k)?? Please explain this in noob language. lol
Click to expand...

It's not about light temperature. It's about electricity. The electrical supply in NTSC countries is a 60Hz system. That means that it pulses 60 full cycles per second. This causes a pulsation in the light that is created by the electrical system.

CMOS chips have a rolling shutter, as opposed to the global shutter of the CCD. Since it is a rolling shutter, it can react to pulsing or strobing light with uneven peaks in the exposure. Have you ever shot with a CMOS camera in a setting where there was flash photography? Try it some time. The video will turn out with frames that have big, black bars in it. The flash fights with the rolling shutter's refresh rate, and causes partially-exposed frames of video. So if a light is (albeit gently) pulsating due to its electrical supply, you'll see a similar effect even though it is more subtle.

Example:

http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?205539-Horizontal-lines-on-T2i

To combat this, the shutter speed must be matched to the pulse rate of the electrical system. Tungsten lights don't cause this problem nearly as badly as other kinds of light, but pay attention when shooting under any artificial light source and adjust if needed.
 
Last edited:
HansSteinert said:
The difference between 1/50 and 1/60 for 24fps is hardly noticeable, so don't feel like you're ruining the image by switching between them if you have to due to the light strobing crap. Do some test shoots if you don't believe me, you will hardly notice the difference. Obviously 50 is ideal since it brings in more light and technically provided the proper motion blur amount.
Click to expand...

Its actually a 20% difference, which I think IS noticeable in motion blur. But, I'm ok with it.

I wouldn't say you can't notice it, though. I think some folks in another thread are complaining about how DSLR motion "doesn't look like film" for that very reason.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top