Jordan Cadby
Active member
Hey,
This post is about using a GH2 in a real world situation... Mainly about being prepared for a shoot by knowing your camera... And whilst it relates to my specific questions... Hopefully the post will flourish into some interesting knowledge sharing.
So anyways I'm involved in a shoot next week, and I intend to use my GH2 as a support camera to the main camera on location.
I've had my camera for a year now and I've played around with it a bit - and I am quite familiar with it.
However this is really the first time I have put it into a real world situation and basically I don't want to let anyone one down.
So I was hoping for some help/clarification on set up and specific problems I am aware of...
First up... Hack, I have been playing with the hacks since they camera was hacked.
Recently I have started looking at the flow motion hack v2.02, which I believe is the best at capturing motion detail..
The shoot is going to be all hand held and "action" and I would really like to supply the editor with the best quality stuff... What's is the best hack for these requirements?
FYI I would prioritise quality over file size.
As a job I create 3D animation for tv... So I'm used to noise free 32bit images... So when I'm looking at my camera footage... I see the problems... But really I just want to know what the highest quality I can provide is...
Second is... I will have to supply my footage at 29.97p... So no 24p ;(
So as far as I can see... I can shoot at 80% variable speed or HBR..
Both have their little annoying parts...
I will have to either remove the field info of the HBR stuff or supply the 24p stuff at the "correct" speed...
I know I'm guna get a better bit rate from the variable speed footage but I'm not sure of how to supply the footage to the editor... I really don't want to supply terabytes of footage thats been converted to pro- res or something.. I would prefer to give them the native footage... Or a similar sized file that has the format tweaks.
Note: when I use clip wrap it seems to do something odd with the colour.
Would converting in 5D-RGB to pro-res LT be the best way to keep the file sizes small and the quality the same... I should also be able to output the files at 29.97 on 5D- RGB as part of the conversion process shouldn't I? Also, I'm sure this can't be don't as a batch? Or can it?
Penultimate question...
From my observations I have concluded that smooth with negative 2 on all is the flattest image... Anyone disagree? I found an interesting video about utilising the I-dynamic option... But I find it incredibly temperamental, and enjoyed turning itself off when you don't want it to etc... Has anyone got any useful tricks to flatten the image?
Finally, I desperately need to get my head around the ISO bug on GH2. Having done a few tests I have definatly observed it... The problem I find most frustrating is the fact it's there from power up...
Anyways... What exactly is the solve? My research seems to suggest you should simply approach the ISO you want from higher numbers going down... But always missing 640 and 1250... Is that right?
Is there an ISO you can power up into that isn't super noisy?
Absolutely Finally.... I'm making the assumption that the rolling shutter is globally the same throughout all the various frame rates and settings... It this the case or are there any loop holes to limit its appearance?
Few!!!!! That's it's... Thank you for your patience...
Hopefully you can see that I have done some research and I'm not just offloading my learning curve on to you guys
Kind Regards
This post is about using a GH2 in a real world situation... Mainly about being prepared for a shoot by knowing your camera... And whilst it relates to my specific questions... Hopefully the post will flourish into some interesting knowledge sharing.
So anyways I'm involved in a shoot next week, and I intend to use my GH2 as a support camera to the main camera on location.
I've had my camera for a year now and I've played around with it a bit - and I am quite familiar with it.
However this is really the first time I have put it into a real world situation and basically I don't want to let anyone one down.
So I was hoping for some help/clarification on set up and specific problems I am aware of...
First up... Hack, I have been playing with the hacks since they camera was hacked.
Recently I have started looking at the flow motion hack v2.02, which I believe is the best at capturing motion detail..
The shoot is going to be all hand held and "action" and I would really like to supply the editor with the best quality stuff... What's is the best hack for these requirements?
FYI I would prioritise quality over file size.
As a job I create 3D animation for tv... So I'm used to noise free 32bit images... So when I'm looking at my camera footage... I see the problems... But really I just want to know what the highest quality I can provide is...
Second is... I will have to supply my footage at 29.97p... So no 24p ;(
So as far as I can see... I can shoot at 80% variable speed or HBR..
Both have their little annoying parts...
I will have to either remove the field info of the HBR stuff or supply the 24p stuff at the "correct" speed...
I know I'm guna get a better bit rate from the variable speed footage but I'm not sure of how to supply the footage to the editor... I really don't want to supply terabytes of footage thats been converted to pro- res or something.. I would prefer to give them the native footage... Or a similar sized file that has the format tweaks.
Note: when I use clip wrap it seems to do something odd with the colour.
Would converting in 5D-RGB to pro-res LT be the best way to keep the file sizes small and the quality the same... I should also be able to output the files at 29.97 on 5D- RGB as part of the conversion process shouldn't I? Also, I'm sure this can't be don't as a batch? Or can it?
Penultimate question...
From my observations I have concluded that smooth with negative 2 on all is the flattest image... Anyone disagree? I found an interesting video about utilising the I-dynamic option... But I find it incredibly temperamental, and enjoyed turning itself off when you don't want it to etc... Has anyone got any useful tricks to flatten the image?
Finally, I desperately need to get my head around the ISO bug on GH2. Having done a few tests I have definatly observed it... The problem I find most frustrating is the fact it's there from power up...
Anyways... What exactly is the solve? My research seems to suggest you should simply approach the ISO you want from higher numbers going down... But always missing 640 and 1250... Is that right?
Is there an ISO you can power up into that isn't super noisy?
Absolutely Finally.... I'm making the assumption that the rolling shutter is globally the same throughout all the various frame rates and settings... It this the case or are there any loop holes to limit its appearance?
Few!!!!! That's it's... Thank you for your patience...
Hopefully you can see that I have done some research and I'm not just offloading my learning curve on to you guys
Kind Regards