GH3 Thread for Quick GH3 Questions/Responses

I just bought a GH3. I work mostly as union DP/Camera Op. Picked it up the GH3 to shoot doc projects of my own. Everything seems fairly clear but there's one thing that really bugs the crap out of me - aperture being on the top dial. Whenever I change the aperture my Video Mic Pro pics up the clicks. Is there anyway to have aperture control on the back dial. It's way quieter and just a better spot for aperture control (at least for me).

The other thing is when I have a headphone jack plugged in it limits the position of the LCD. Anyone know of a tiny right angle 1/8" jack adaptor?
 
Here:

http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Right-Stereo-Female-Adapter/dp/B004JX82PY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1365388811&sr=8-1&keywords=right+angle+1%2F8"+jack+adapto

And I bought 4 at Radio Shack a couple years ago.

Good luck
 
This may prove to be an uneducated question, but is there any disadvantage to using extended zoom as opposed to forking over for a new lens? For example, I have the 35-100. If I occasionally need further reach, why not use the extended option (that doesn't degrade quality) instead of looking for a longer lens but (more than likely) a higher f stop?
 
@Ianscreations You may want to get a bit more specific about what you are asking about. For instance, do you mean stills or video or both?

In video mode, the sensor capture by default is downsampled to 1080P or 720P from a significantly higher pixel count. In that mode you can use the GH3's version of Extended TeleConverter Mode (ETC or EX) to get a tighter crop while still using the actual data being captured by the sensor. However, if you are talking about full-resolution pictures, there is no free-lunch: the only way the camera can "maintain resolution" while increasing the zoom is by using post-processing to "guess" what those extra pixels should be (this is true for just about every camera I can think of, not just the GH3).

In other words, for full-resolution stills there is a quality/resolution loss when you use the extended option: the sensor is already producing full-resolution pictures normally. Try it out for yourself and see.

As far as the video mode, the extended modes have more prominent noise (normally the downsampling downplays it) but are still usable.
 
@Ianscreations You may want to get a bit more specific about what you are asking about. For instance, do you mean stills or video or both?

In video mode, the sensor capture by default is downsampled to 1080P or 720P from a significantly higher pixel count. In that mode you can use the GH3's version of Extended TeleConverter Mode (ETC or EX) to get a tighter crop while still using the actual data being captured by the sensor. However, if you are talking about full-resolution pictures, there is no free-lunch: the only way the camera can "maintain resolution" while increasing the zoom is by using post-processing to "guess" what those extra pixels should be (this is true for just about every camera I can think of, not just the GH3).

In other words, for full-resolution stills there is a quality/resolution loss when you use the extended option: the sensor is already producing full-resolution pictures normally. Try it out for yourself and see.

As far as the video mode, the extended modes have more prominent noise (normally the downsampling downplays it) but are still usable.

Well, I didn't realize there was a difference! So, for video purpose, there doesn't appear to be a major disadvantage? Does ETC double the zoom length? Thanks for your response!
 
Extended zoom in video, even though the manual says "no degradation", it does soften the image slightly as well as boost the noise.
 
I must say, this camera drops the ball in a few respects.


improvements (that personally matter to me):
- improved video features
- improved sensor for photos and video
- Better ergonomics for grip
- headphone jack
- OLED screen
- weather-sealed (only really worth it if you have the 12-35 and/or 35-100, and I guess that Olympus 12-50?)
- Adjust ISO while recording

steps back:
- Poorer EVF compared to GH2
- EVF window smaller than GH2, harder to see into
- Odd button placements (Play button, WB, ISO, +/-, top dial). Wish the Play button was where the red Record button was, and the red Record button could go...who the hell cares?...up top where it was on the GH2 I guess.
- Dials don't click in. Not incredibly necessary, but if you prefer to just use the rear dial, you can switch between exposure settings this way)
- D-pad buttons not given dual purpose as GH2. Could've had 4 more Fn buttons)
- Jog wheel superfluous in and of itself, but more so because the rubber grip is in the way. If you apply more pressure to avoid the loss of grip on the jog wheel, you end up accidentally clicking in on the d-pad)
- The price. Which is mainly justified by the weather-sealed, magnesium body. Okay, fine. But it's a shame the GH3 took so many steps back while adding a huge price increase. I believe the GH2 was $900 body only when first released. Going from the GH1 to GH2 was an improvement in just about every single way, but not so with the GH2 to GH3. Yet it's $400 more...The GH3 is an upgrade, just not an across the board upgrade.

somewhere in the middle:
- I really thought I would welcome the bigger size, but I just got my 9-18mm today, got my GH3 last week, and yet the 9-18 goes on the GH2 for my first test shoot because, personally, I find the GH2 more fun to shoot with. It's just nifty. I think it's because I feel so clever packing so much quality in such a small camera. The GH3 has me feeling like every other dslr user out there. On the other hand, the GH3 feels a lot better in the hand, looks and feels more substantial which helps in terms of presentation to clients and other pros alike.

- At the end of the day, the GH3 is a definite upgrade for video work, but it's a shame my #1 camera for work will no longer be my #1 camera for play. GH2, congrats, you're still awesome.

Sorry for the rant, had to get it out somewhere.
 
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Anyone have any good links to the best way to compress GH3 video for DVD? Maybe some work flow for HD too.
 
I must say, this camera drops the ball in a few respects.


improvements (that personally matter to me):
- improved video features
- improved sensor for photos and video
- Better ergonomics for grip
- headphone jack
- OLED screen
- weather-sealed (only really worth it if you have the 12-35 and/or 35-100, and I guess that Olympus 12-50?)
- Adjust ISO while recording

steps back:
- Poorer EVF compared to GH2
- EVF window smaller than GH2, harder to see into
- Odd button placements (Play button, WB, ISO, +/-, top dial). Wish the Play button was where the red Record button was, and the red Record button could go...who the hell cares?...up top where it was on the GH2 I guess.
- Dials don't click in. Not incredibly necessary, but if you prefer to just use the rear dial, you can switch between exposure settings this way)
- D-pad buttons not given dual purpose as GH2. Could've had 4 more Fn buttons)
- Jog wheel superfluous in and of itself, but more so because the rubber grip is in the way. If you apply more pressure to avoid the loss of grip on the jog wheel, you end up accidentally clicking in on the d-pad)
- The price. Which is mainly justified by the weather-sealed, magnesium body. Okay, fine. But it's a shame the GH3 took so many steps back while adding a huge price increase. I believe the GH2 was $900 body only when first released. Going from the GH1 to GH2 was an improvement in just about every single way, but not so with the GH2 to GH3. Yet it's $400 more...The GH3 is an upgrade, just not an across the board upgrade.

somewhere in the middle:
- I really thought I would welcome the bigger size, but I just got my 9-18mm today, got my GH3 last week, and yet the 9-18 goes on the GH2 for my first test shoot because, personally, I find the GH2 more fun to shoot with. It's just nifty. I think it's because I feel so clever packing so much quality in such a small camera. The GH3 has me feeling like every other dslr user out there. On the other hand, the GH3 feels a lot better in the hand, looks and feels more substantial which helps in terms of presentation to clients and other pros alike.

- At the end of the day, the GH3 is a definite upgrade for video work, but it's a shame my #1 camera for work will no longer be my #1 camera for play. GH2, congrats, you're still awesome.

Sorry for the rant, had to get it out somewhere.

Honestly I kind of feel the same way. Just sold my GH2 and 20mm f1.7 to be able to buy a GH3. Sure it is an upgrade but I have a hard time feeling it as an upgrade considering the extra price. I know it is better but it is hard to notice it based on the price. The camera feels more solid but yet it lost some of the charm of being so small compared to many other DSLR's. the compactness of the GH2 was actually nice. The GH2 was already difficult to get wide angle with adapted lenses, especially vintage ones. With the GH3 it is a tiny bit harder. Not much different but it is there.

Totally agree about the button placement although I think that is because we were so used to the GH1 and GH2 placement. I hope to eventually get used to it. I would think those who use both the GH2 and GH3 would really find this messing them up a lot.

Honestly I do like the peace of mind of shooting 50mbit without potential crashes or odd issues. Not that they were common on the GH2 but it could happen.

One thing is for sure I really miss my 20mm f1.7 now. Sold it since someday I hope to get a better lens but I'm starting to realize why I bought that lens in the first place. Darn good lens for the money.
 
Extended zoom in video, even though the manual says "no degradation", it does soften the image slightly as well as boost the noise.

It doesn't really soften the image or add more noise. It is more the fact that those things are not hidden by the over sampled sensor. Using a high pixel count and scaling down to 1080p with a bayer sensor will give you sharper results with less noise. The sensor itself always has the same amount of detail and noise. It is the normal mode that just hides it better. Still there just harder to see.

The quality of the lens will make a huge difference as well. ETC mode means using a tiny exaggerated portion of the lens. When shooting video slightly not as sharp lenses get masked by down scaling. With ETC you are using a tiny portion of the lens which it wasn't really designed for so the optical quality may not be as good. Top notch lenses will look better with ETC then some of the cheaper lenses.

In the end ETC ends up looking no worse than a consumer 1/2" single chip bayer sensor native 1080 video camera with a tiny lens. Yes it looks softer but that doesn't have to be a bad thing. You may have to use different profiles with contrast and sharpness settings when you switch to ETC. A sharpness setting will look very different depending on using ETC or not using it. Maybe shoot -5 at normal and 0 with ETC to get the detail to match.
 
Does anyone use the +/- Exposure Button for M Video mode?
Curious he it adjusts exposure. Does it change SS? Does it work while recording?
Wondering if this is a better way for me to adjust exposure when I have a fixed SS and aperture, rather than relying simply on iso.
 
Honestly I kind of feel the same way. Just sold my GH2 and 20mm f1.7 to be able to buy a GH3. Sure it is an upgrade but I have a hard time feeling it as an upgrade considering the extra price. I know it is better but it is hard to notice it based on the price. The camera feels more solid but yet it lost some of the charm of being so small compared to many other DSLR's. the compactness of the GH2 was actually nice. The GH2 was already difficult to get wide angle with adapted lenses, especially vintage ones. With the GH3 it is a tiny bit harder. Not much different but it is there.

Exactly, that was another reason I used the GH2, it is a wide angle lens after all.


Does anyone use the +/- Exposure Button for M Video mode?
Curious he it adjusts exposure. Does it change SS? Does it work while recording?
Wondering if this is a better way for me to adjust exposure when I have a fixed SS and aperture, rather than relying simply on iso.


Doesn't appear to do anything. Were you thinking it would adjust aperture and iso at the same time, or?.. I'm not sure how using the +/- button would be more effective than the aperture dial, and separated ISO button.

edit : I see what you mean, if you can use one of the dials to control ISO as opposed to entering the ISO menu. That would be convenient actually. But yeah, the button doesn't seem to do anything when pushed in M movie mode.
 
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Just in case anyone missed it in my another thread.
Last night, I found the best way (imo) to bring up the display while recording. Instead of touching the screen (and risking a focus shift) or the shutter button halfway (risking record stoppage), I have found you can simply turn the dial on the back. Even just one click works. I discovered it while adjusting the volume of my headphones. I find this to be a great solution as there is very little pressure on the camera itself. Just an FYI.
You know another thing that's odd?
That whole "burn-in" argument doesn't fly with me. The reason is that the monitor still displays some constants, including your record time. If burnin is such an issue, really all of it should disappear.
 
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