FX6: The Sony ILME-FX6V Owners Club

Here is a 50 sec example clip of what I'm trying to work out. There are three segments as the sun goes down and I change the settings on the FX6 as the gain hits the 12dB point:
- Part 1: Low Base with Auto ND, when dB gain hits 12dB I then change to;
- Part 2: Low Base with Clear ND, when dB gain hits 12dB I then change to;
- Part 3: High Base with Auto ND.

The transitions look close but not quite right.

FYI, this is shot using S&Q at 1fps on a 50fps timeline @ 360 shutter angle, F4, ungraded but converted to 1080p / 709 rec from UHD/HLG and the 2nd clip is speed ramped by 300% to keep the sample short.
 
I'm not really sure what it is you are hoping to achieve in the final result. You're never going to get it identical in camera.
 
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Anyone figure out how to batch stabilize in Catalyst?

Apparently you can't batch stabilize—it only works one clip at a time.

I like the idea of gyro stabilization and the results seem good but the implementation is terrible right now. It really, really needs to be integrated into NLEs. There's a couple lenses I'm on the fence about because they lack stabilization and I'm hesitant to rely on the Catalyst implementation of stabilization too often.

Sorry nope. I'd rather drink bleach than use that horrible piece of software.

While I generally agree with this sentiment I do use it for copying media. Do you just copy files straight from the card? I've never had a problem doing that but I'm always curious to learn others' workflows for transferring footage.
 
I've used various programs for offloading in the past but none really made me feel any more secure than copying by hand.

Might invest in Hedge at some point though. Looks great. Just been Netflix certified too.
 
It is a bit of a hassle to go through Catalyst and stabilize every clip you need to correct but it works. That being said I would like to see a plug like the Insta360 have for their cameras that stabilize right inside Premiere. They both rely on the same basics with gyro data so it can be done.
 
I've used various programs for offloading in the past but none really made me feel any more secure than copying by hand.

Might invest in Hedge at some point though. Looks great. Just been Netflix certified too.

I use Hedge simply because of the verification which copying in the finder cannot do. Very simple to use.
 
What's it like speedwise?

Verification in the other programs I used to use made it unworkable because it slowed down transfers so much on productions. In the end was better to transfer back at home.
 
So ND 1/4 is cutting 2 stops.

Essentially making base ISO 800/0Db the same exposure as ISO 200 or -6B.

I think.

So it's all relative. And if you were at a different ISO cutting 2 stops with ND would not be the same as -6DB gain.

I think.

Or to put it more accurately - http://www.designimage.co.uk/converting-between-gain-and-f-stops/

6dB is an equivalent of doubling of signal strength. In case of video signal it means 1 stop difference. -6dB means halving the signal strength / -1 stop. So for example if 0dB is 800ISO then -6dB is half of that, 400ISO.


Therefore this is false: "So ND 1/4 is cutting 2 stops. Essentially making base ISO 800/0Db the same exposure as ISO 200 or -6B.
" It is -12dB.
 
6dB is an equivalent of doubling of signal strength. In case of video signal it means 1 stop difference. -6dB means halving the signal strength / -1 stop. So for example if 0dB is 800ISO then -6dB is half of that, 400ISO.


Therefore this is false: "So ND 1/4 is cutting 2 stops. Essentially making base ISO 800/0Db the same exposure as ISO 200 or -6B.
" It is -12dB.

Sorry typo. Had already posted previously..

Been a while but fingers crossed I still remember all this stuff.

There's a few ways of referring to ND strength.

1/4 is 2 stops of ND or 0.6
1/8 is 4 stops of ND or 1.2

6db gain is a doubling of ISO so at base 800 0db +6db is 1600iso.

A doubling of ISO is the equivalent to increasing light intake by 1 stop.
 
Does anyone know what the difference is between HLG Live and HLG Natural? I can find no description of it in the manual or on the Web.
 
There are two HLG Looks that can be selected via the Paint settings in the HDR mode. The default “HLG Live” look is broadly aligned with Rec-709 so it gives a contrasty, dynamic-looking image that doesn’t need any further grading or post production whether viewed in HDR or SDR.

The “HLG Natural” look is more closely aligned with the BT.2100 HDR standard, so this looks a bit flat and dull on an SDR TV, but it looks great in HDR!
https://sonycine.com/articles/fx9-version-2-firmware-overview-with-alister-chapman/
 
Thanks ahalpert! Relevant section is:

There are two HLG Looks that can be selected via the Paint settings in the HDR mode. The default “HLG Live” look is broadly aligned with Rec-709 so it gives a contrasty, dynamic-looking image that doesn’t need any further grading or post production whether viewed in HDR or SDR.

The “HLG Natural” look is more closely aligned with the BT.2100 HDR standard, so this looks a bit flat and dull on an SDR TV, but it looks great in HDR!
 
Sorry nope. I'd rather drink bleach than use that horrible piece of software.

Catalyst is not my favorite software either, but it does have quite a few useful functions that aren't available anywhere else. I use it a few times a week for specific tasks.
 
Has anyone been able to get catalyst working on a Mac Pro 7,1? The program simply refuses to open since I upgraded my old pimped out 5,1.
 
Has anyone been able to get catalyst working on a Mac Pro 7,1? The program simply refuses to open since I upgraded my old pimped out 5,1.

It seems like catalyst may not have support for Big Sur yet. Could that be your issue?
 
I have Catalyst Browse 2020.1.0.594 on my MacBook Pro 2020, with BigSur 11.2.3. It's working fine
 
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