Other: The Sony ILME-FX6V Owners Club

During todays shoot I did some testing swapping lenses, even while recording, changing settings in the menu and in general doing things a little bit more stupid than normal. Everything worked fine this time.
 
Good to hear. Love the phrase "a little bit more stupid than normal". Might nick that for my next marketing campaign ;-)

I know it will be difficult, but I think you should try and put this behind you now. The only thing I think I'd be a little suspicious of is the cards. You've already bought another one. I'm anal about cards and always record to both card slots simultaneously (on my FS5) although I've never, ever had a problem (Sandisk Extreme Pros all the way, up until a recent purchase of 300MBps V90 Angelbirds - in anticipation of getting my FX6 this summer). Been using SxS cards on my other Sony cameras for 13+ years now and never had a problem on those either - but those are the ONLY cards I trust doing relay recording with.
 
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Another thing I noticed while handling the clips. On some clips I couldn't do stabilizing in Catalyst because an error message telling me something like "not enough data to do stabilizing". As I recollect these clips were at the time when the camera started to act up.

I will try to not think to much about it. In worst case scenario I'll loose a few minutes during a shoot while rebuilding media and swapping cards.
 
J.Brown said:
Another thing I noticed while handling the clips. On some clips I couldn't do stabilizing in Catalyst because an error message telling me something like "not enough data to do stabilizing".
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Did you have Steadyshot turned on? If so, that is the cause of the error in post. You can't use Steadyshot if you want to stabilize later in Catalyst.
 
That could be it because on some clips I used the Zeiss Batis 85 with IS. I checked and sure enough the clips that can't be stabilized were the 85mm ones. Thanks Doug!
 
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Ben Scott said:
Haha fair point.

A bit pricey but I think the Wooden Camera full setup is probably the best 'big rig' setup out there. Until Arri does one at least.
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I asked Arri if they were going to make accessories for the Fx6. They stated that they don’t plan to as they did not receive the dimensions from Sony before the camera was released like the other manufacturers. Since it takes months to develop they have lost the possibilities for sales. I think that’s a bad move on Sony’s part and hopefully they don’t do this again in the future as the Arri eco system is by far the best.
 
I wonder what’s happening with the 4k DCI 1-60fps S&Q raw output mode that’s been promised by Atomos (and technically, is supposed to already be working in the current firmware).
 
I did it with the PC/USB connection. Some remarks:
- Don't forget to disable the power & screen saving on the PC
- The update took 13 mn, BUT 100% was reached after 7mn only.... so wait and don't do anything before the message FW completed
- after the update, it's recommended to power OFF, remove the battery and power ON again. I don't know why, but I did it :)
and I did it with the lens

(not related to the update)
I wonder what trigs the hot pixel cleaning ('Execute APR' at power ON). Sometimes I get it one day and the day after, sometimes after one week...
 
I also did the update through the Sony update software. it took a while but I recorded for an hour after and it all worked.
 
Does anyone know what the relationship is between dB (gain), Hi/Low Base, and ND on the FX6? I'm looking for the cross points at which you can keep the same exposure (say during sunset), where you start with Low Base and V-ND then as the light drops you change settings when dB hits a certain dB (say 12dB??), eg
- when dB raises to say "12dB" on Low Base with 1/4 V-ND (lowest) = turn off the ND (Clear) and it goes back to 0dB keeping the same exposure, then;
- when dB raises again to "12dB" = switch to High Base with V-ND and it goes back to 0dB keeping the same exposure, then;
- when dB raises again to "12dB" = turn off the ND (Clear) and it goes back to 0dB keeping the same exposure.

I'm guessing it is 12dB but ... that is just a guess, and I'm using it now filming as night falls.
 
Been a while but fingers crossed I still remember all this stuff.

There's a few ways of referring to ND strength.

1/4 is 2 stops of ND or 0.6
1/8 is 4 stops of ND or 1.2

6db gain is a doubling of ISO so at base 800 0db +6db is 1600iso.

A doubling of ISO is the equivalent to increasing light intake by 1 stop.
 
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