General T3i Questions-Color Shift/ SD Monitoring/ LDCVF

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DevonH

Well-known member
Hey All,
I'm about to purchase a t3i to compliment my GH2 (needed a better stills camera), and have a few questions.

1. On the GH2, there is a noticeable color shift on the LCD when pressing record, is this the case with the t3i?

2. I understand the HDMI out is SD, but my DP6 will take that SD stream and fit it to size for the monitor. Is the resulting image usable for focus, or essentially just good for framing?

3. Is a loupe still a subjective "must have" with an external monitor like the DP6?

Thanks!
 
I have my T3i running Magic Lantern and have it set up to show the Standard Picture profile on the LCD when not recording. As soon as I hit the record button it switches to both record and display my much flatter picture style like Marvels 3.4 that I want to capture in. These recording profiles are very flat and make it much more difficult to set focus and thus the reason for using Auto or Standard between clips. From there I use the histogram and focus peaking to set exposure and focus on the LCD. Bottom line is I don't want my image when recording to be the same as setup. Kind of a reference back to your thread on the GH2 shifting when you hit record. Learn how to used the tools the ML and the cam have to offer to get exposure and rely on the picture profile to get as much color and dynamic range as possible for latitude in post.

While the lcd is better on the T3i than the GH2, it strobes terribly under motion with an LCDVF. In otherwords if you are trying to use it as a run and gun setup an lcd magnifier will drive you crazy at first. The lcd's refresh rate is nowhere near fast enough when viewed at 2 - 3x magnification. For static shots and setups, the LCDVF is great. I think your monitor might be a better all around tool though and should work quite well with ML and focus peaking to get critical focus even with the SD output, but I don't have a monitor so I can't speak from first hand experience.

Cheers,
Pete
 
(but if you don't do that ML thing that c3hammer does, the image won't change a bit when you hit record) (also, HDMI out is fullHD, until you hit record, then it's ugly SD with black bars on top and bottom; make sure your monitor know how to handle this)
 
NormanBates said:
(but if you don't do that ML thing that c3hammer does, the image won't change a bit when you hit record) (also, HDMI out is fullHD, until you hit record, then it's ugly SD with black bars on top and bottom; make sure your monitor know how to handle this)
Click to expand...

He has a DP-6 which has a Canon DSLR pre-set on it that scales the image to fill the screen. It's SD, but it's plenty good for focus.
 
Thanks for the input guys, I'll skip the Loupe for now.

My other question would be about the Zebras, is it possible to set 2 sets, or just 1?
 
I think the loupe is far more useful than any monitor; I use a small Marshall and also have a 22" HDTV on a roller stand. But I consistently focus better with the loupe, and there's no messing with cables, power, etc. On the T2i I see no flicker problems with loupes or monitors.

I do enjoy using the Marshall, and the 1:1 button is nice for setting up focus. But I did an all-day shoulder mount shoot with the T2i last week and was able to nail focus constantly with the loupe. A loupe is generally my "buy this first" recommendation for new users - great for focus and indispensable in bright sun. And with monitors, I've consistently found that focus peaking isn't dependable for Canon DSLRs... there's so much aliasing, it shows far too much soft items as being in focus.
 
I think a lot depends on shooting style and preference. I had the Zacuto Z-finder 3X and sold it after a few months because I never used it. Others find them indispensable. It's VERY rare for the camera to come off the sticks, slider, dolly, etc... for me, but I know not everybody shoots that way.
 
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