T3i Manual Video Mode AE Lock?

[Ned J. Ferbel]

Hi. I've searched the web and this forum without resolve, but I cannot believe at all this is a new topic...or else there is something extremely obvious I am overlooking.

I just purchased a Canon T3i to replace my Nikon D90. I had been a Nikon fan until they introduced the D5100 without full manual controls. Side note: I have a medley of Sigma (Canon mount), Nikon prime and auto, and Minolta prime lenses which are all working fantastic with the EOS adapters.

My issue is: I cannot get the camera, and the manual states it as well, to lock the auto-exposure compensation in manual mode. This seems absolutely backward to me. It does allow it to be locked in automatic video mode (its the little snowflake looking button). The other backward thing is I cannot get the ae exposure compensation to change in manual mode. It allows +-3 steps in video mode. The lcd image looks really good, but while editing I discover it is a little overexposed. I would like to see what looks good in the lcd, then turn the ae exposure down a notch or two to get it right.

I find it very odd that I can set the ISO, aperture, and shutter speed in manual mode, but when panning from a darker to a lighter point with the camera, it automatically compensates. Today I had a clip where I went from a bright sky through pine tree needles while tilting to the ground. The ground was darker and the camera made an adjustment. I had to go to automatic mode to lock it so that change wouldn't be made.
With that, I also noticed the ISO level was 160, so in automatic mode you get better increments of the ISO?

It is not the end of the world if that is the case. It just cheeses me off a little since I made the switch from Nikon to Canon only to discover an annoyance which makes no sense. Apologies in advance if it is something I am completely overlooking..and it is still better than the trickery crap you have to do with the Nikon to have manual controls. But, if I cannot lock the ae exposure in the Canon...it is basically the same as the Nikon D5100 if I have to use it consistently in automatic video mode.

Otherwise I LOVE the camera. I had to decide between a refurbished T2i from Canon for $639 versus $849 for a new T3i. I opted to spend the extra and the articulated screen and digital zoom (3x looks great) have been completely worth the extra investment. I plopped the HoodLoupe and HoodCrane on it to swing away easily and use the lcd most of the time with a HoodMan. Zooming in for focusing works better than expected on the 3" lcd.

Thanks in advance. Ned.

 

[PhantomVideo]

Ned, the 600d (T3i) is completely manuel assuming you have set the camera to manuel from Auto in the RED shooting menu, (just like the 550d) there is no need for any kind of AE lock because the camera is full manuel as long as that setting is changed, the other thing to look at disarming is the Dynamic Lighting Correction thing which you will find in the custom fuctions menu. This camera is awesome do your self a favour get the new unifed magic lantern custom frmware installed and see what an amazing camera it can be; http://magiclantern.wikia.com/wiki/Unified

 

[laniwolf]

Exactly what PhantomVideo wrote. Its great.

 

[Bruce Foreman]

My issue is: I cannot get the camera, and the manual states it as well, to lock the auto-exposure compensation in manual mode. This seems absolutely backward to me. It does allow it to be locked in automatic video mode (its the little snowflake looking button). The other backward thing is I cannot get the ae exposure compensation to change in manual mode. It allows +-3 steps in video mode. The lcd image looks really good, but while editing I discover it is a little overexposed. I would like to see what looks good in the lcd, then turn the ae exposure down a notch or two to get it right.

I don't use any adapted lenses with any of my Canons (7D, 60D, T3i) so I cannot confirm, but it may be that the exposure compensation may not be available with non EOS compatible lenses. And I've seen mentions that the exposure meter indicator may not read accurately with non EOS compatible lenses. With all of my EF and EF-S lenses, the meter reads right on the money.

If you want to be able to evaluate exposure by appearance on the LCD, you ABSOLUTELY MUST use a viewfinder loupe such as the Zacuto, or Hoodman's "Cinema Pro Kit" to block extraneous light

I find it very odd that I can set the ISO, aperture, and shutter speed in manual mode, but when panning from a darker to a lighter point with the camera, it automatically compensates. Today I had a clip where I went from a bright sky through pine tree needles while tilting to the ground. The ground was darker and the camera made an adjustment. I had to go to automatic mode to lock it so that change wouldn't be made.

Again with EOS compatible lenses if you have aperture set, shutter speed set, and ISO "dialed in" manually (I have mine on AUTO long enough to see what the camera will select, then "dial" that value in manually) your exposure is "locked". If you need to darken or lighten exposure a bit all that is necessary is to adjust ISO or aperture (manually). But I don't know how "adapted" lenses will affect that, I don't have any such.

You may be inadvertently leaving ISO set to AUTO, the camera will compensate exposure for changes in scene brightness if you do.

It is not the end of the world if that is the case. It just cheeses me off a little since I made the switch from Nikon to Canon only to discover an annoyance which makes no sense.

I hope my info helps. It may be something as simple as leaving ISO in AUTO.

 

[Ned J. Ferbel]

Thanks!

Thanks!

I was using manual mode when the issue occurred...I must have had it set to auto ISO. If it ever happens again and everything is locked into manual, I will post a video.

Bruce: I do have a Hoodloupe and Hoodcrane. That's one of the nice things about the articulated screen, lift up the crane and swing the monitor back in to use it. A simple Hoodman does wonders as well for using the lcd. I will likely turn up the brightness level of the monitor to compensate for the exposure...or else I will just learn more about the camera and remember where to be from using it and looking at test footage.

Thank you all much.

Ned.

 

[Bruce Foreman]

I will likely turn up the brightness level of the monitor to compensate for the exposure...or else I will just learn more about the camera and remember where to be from using it and looking at test footage.

Ned, if you mean adjusting the LCD brightness using the menu item to do so, be very careful about doing that. Be very sure that you are able to see all of the individual grey scale steps on the scale to the right of the image. When you select this menu item, the last still image you shot appears with a "stepped" greyscale going from white at the top to black at the bottom.

You need to be able to clearly see each step from white to black as well as normal tonal detail in the image. You should adjust LCD brightness mainly when your eyes have become used to the ambient lighting level in bright daylight/sunlight (even with a loupe you may not be able to see detail on the LCD well so you may need to make it brighter) or outdoors at night (eyes will accomodate to the darkness and when the image looks right on the LCD it may be too dark/underexposed when you get it in the computer).

Best done with the loupe in place and you MUST be able to see each step on the greyscale.

DO NOT FORGET TO RESET IT TO "NORMAL" MIDPOINT WHEN DONE IN EACH LOCATION!

If what you mean is adjusting EXPOSURE until it looks "right" on the LCD, go to the LCD Brightness item on the menu and with a still image shot under current conditions, be sure you can see all the steps on the greyscale.

It's a good tool if used right.