Some field notes - audio with the Tascam DR-60D

[Michael Carter]

Well... shouldn't this be in an Audio thread? Maybe, but amongst all that talk of thousand dollar Schoeps mics and I-wish Lectrosonic rigs, something that's more DSLR-centric might get lost. And the DR does seem designed for DSLR shooting... so:



I've shot a bunch of gigs with the unit - here's some ins and outs:

Audio quality is really great, especially for $199 AND free PluralEyes software. I've dropped the files into ProTools and poked around. VERY nice sounding unit. Noise floor is nice & low.

The limiter is dynamite to my ears. Very unobtrusive. It won't totally kill a huge spike, but for general use, it does the job, no pumping, no breathing.

The meters read high. Don't be afraid to push towards the high end. The ability to record a 2nd set of tracks at -6DB is fantastic and gives you a great failsafe. That said, I've never had to use the -6 tracks, but y'know, there always comes a day - this could be a life saver.

Gain seems a little low - I almost always have the dial at 90% or full.

USE THE LINE OUT if your camera has a mic input. On the D7100, I run a scratch track from the DR to the camera, and get useable levels in camera. The DR has a physical wheel for line out volume (THANKS Tascam - not a menu item!) and the 7100 has audio in controls and meters. This not only gives you a clean scratch track without room delay, making synching faster and easier - if you setup your gain properly, your in-camera audio is useable. Not as clean (on my D7100) as the DR, but really pretty good.

THE BAD:
Batteries. Battery life isn't all that bad - rechargeable NIHMs work well. But, after a minute or so, battery meter drops from 3 bars to 2. Then stays at three bars for hours (not hours of constant recording, but your usual set-day). If you grab a set of older batteries that have, say, a half charge - sometimes the thing says "dead batteries" and won't power up. In fact, you can pull batteries that are currently working (with the meter on the low side), put them back in, and get the no-go. So... ALWAYS have extra batteries.

I'm guessing the battery meter and acceptance could be fixed in firmware. But a great solution (if you don't have a pinch rig or pro power setup) is a $30 Anker USB battery (the DR uses micro USB as a power input). Mounting it can be a problem, but after a 6 hour shoot day, my Anker still shows 4 bars. So load the DR up with NIHMs or alkalines, attach the Anker, and you're covered.

NOTES:

USE THE STOP BUTTON - if you don't want to confuse the heck out of Pluraleyes and editors. To record, pressing the red button puts you in recording standby, press again to record. Press again doesn't stop - it pauses. Do that three or 4 times, and instead of 4 tracks, you get one long track. So your slates will be throughout the track, not at the head of each separate track.

And, the two-touch recording, while not unusual, can be confusing on a busy shoot (am I recording?!??!) Make it a habit to watch the counter. I'm generally "Settle in please", hit camera record, hit the red button twice, wait for the counter to go from 00 to 01, and call "rolling" or "action". If you're running both camera and sound, it may be wise to use the same sequence - roll camera, roll sound, call "cut", cut sound, cut camera - in that scenario your footage will be head and tail a few frames longer than your audio. PluralEyes at least makes more visual sense to me with that habit.

(I don't know if there's a standard on-set way to do this - I assume the standard is somebody else is hitting the audio buttons though...)

LCD BACKLIGHT:

You can set the shutoff time for the backlight - I assume auto shutoff saves some battery power. Just tap the "enter" button to light it back up - this is safe, doesn't launch menus, etc.

FORMATTING CARDS:

Myself - and many web posters - have never successfully done the "full format". it spins and spins its graphics until you freak out 5 minutes later, pull the batteries and card, and try again. The "simple format" works just fine and takes seconds.

CARDS!!!

I bet you have a bunch of legacy slow-speed cards piled up somewhere - they work fine in the DR.

FIRMWARE

Firmware updates are quick and easy. They say (as everyone does) to not be on battery power... but since you're downloading firmware, just plug into your USB port for power.

The USB port also works for data transfer - I had a client with a dead card reader, and the files moved reasonably fast via USB to his system.

That's all I've got, feel free to add more scoop below - overall - this thing is kickass for the $$.

 

[Sol M.]

Thanks for the summary. I agree-- ergonomics, features, and quality are great on this unit. The big downer is the paltry battery life, but as long as you have ample spares, you call roll all day.

 

[AlexNOR]

Thanks for the write up. Does this take external power from i.e. a V-mount battery?

 

[Michael Carter]

Thanks for the write up. Does this take external power from i.e. a V-mount battery?

Yes - easiest setup is a plate with USB power out - the DR ships with a micro to fullsize USB cable. Basically the same as using an Anker or similar phone juice battery. One of those will run it for days.

 

[wgtwo]

Don't forget stepping digital gain control. Makes mid-shot adjustment all but unusable.

 

[Sol M.]

Don't forget stepping digital gain control. Makes mid-shot adjustment all but unusable.

Are you speaking from experience or from reading reviews? It is unfortunate that level control is not completely analog and you can detect the effects in controlled tests. However, in actual use, the stepping not extremely noticeable.

Nothing's perfect, but this unit is far from unusable.

 

[Michael Carter]

If you're riding gain while shooting, chances are you're just managing the sound part of a dual system crew. This unit seems really purpose built for DSLR shooting, small crew, bolt it right to the camera, etc. I'd imagine most scenarios this is intended for, the camera op is operating the recorder as well. If you can afford a waist pack full of Sound Devices stuff, this ain't for you.

People have mentioned the "zipper noise" - audible stepping vs. smooth gain (the pots are smooth with no detents, BTW), but in practice? Tests have been posted showing it's only prevalent with something like steady white noise or testing scenarios designed to expose that issue - for general dialogue, I don't know if it's audible. Ive never heard it myself, but I'm moving the pots during shot setup, not shooting.

I find it to be set & forget - I keep an occasional eye on the meters (and the meters of the D7100 are ever-present, and since they're fed by the line out of the Tascam, it's a good indication of overall range even if it's not the exact DB hitting the card in the DR). With the dual-tracking of normal and minus-6 DB, there's a not a lot of reason to manage the gain unless you're doing some sort of run & gun event I would think - myself, I use a shoulder mounted "professional" camera with XLRs, phantom power, viewfinder & focus peaking, etc. for those situations (to me a DSLR's pretty useless for those gigs - the DSLR is for more methodical work, "pretty" commercial work, etc.) Even then, I'm running mono with one channel at reduced gain and only moving a fader if there's suddenly a hundred people cheering or whatever.

So, unusable? I dunno. We're talking about a $200 piece of gear that ships with a $179 software package. You can certainly spend a little (or a lot) more and get something with smooth gain. Get a zoom and you'll have mounting issues, etc. - there's no perfect device out there, but this is likely to be one of the standards for solo DSLR production.

 

[wgtwo]

Speaking from experience. I can clearly hear it - not always, but in enough situations for it to be a major issue.

 

[AlexNOR]

Yes - easiest setup is a plate with USB power out - the DR ships with a micro to fullsize USB cable. Basically the same as using an Anker or similar phone juice battery. One of those will run it for days.

Thanks!

 

[vainlord]

Nice write-up! Looks like a good unit if the form factor fits your needs!

 

[Michael Carter]

There's a lot of posts on BMCuser of how people have rigged this with waist-pack bags. There's a link to a guy who make custom-fit rigs, too. (I posted a similar write up there since the BMC cams have some audio issues...)

 

[dslr_sc]

Thanks for the review. I've been eyeing one of these also. What's your opinion on the build quality? Another owner online complained that the silver strap handles broke off when he put it in his bag. He didn't drop it or anything, they just broke.

 

[8string]

I've been lucky enough to try a variety of low cost recorders for DSLR's and this one seems to be the best of the bunch. The review certainly seems to hit the points I would mention. If you are trying to 'ride the meters' you probably should buy a more expensive system with better LEDs. Like a SD Mixpre. But I prefer this one to zoom or even my Marantz PMD661, which is technically a better product. Ergonomics on this are designed for us one man bands.

 

[unadog]

I prefer this one to zoom or even my Marantz PMD661, which is technically a better product. Ergonomics on this are designed for us one man bands.

Thanks for this thread!

This is timely. I also have a Marantz PMD661.

I am looking for a very small recorder to use with a very small camera, the Canon EOS M - about the same size as the NEX. I am thinking an ultralight kit only for ambient sound on a B camera, with the Marantz serving as the main sound unit on the A camera, with a Shure FP33, etc.

I am even thinking of a 3.5 mm only unit just for this, with no XLR. With something like the DR-60 as an "in between" system perhaps ... I was looking at the Tascam DR-40, or really the Zoom H2 - something smaller. Or even an Olympus type recorder.

Any thoughts on that? I don't want to derail this thread, but given your experience with different units, I think others might also be interested to knopw how these all "rank" if you will.

Thanks!

 

[Sayhibob]

DR60D no useful strap handles

DR60D no useful strap handles

I don't think those silver rods are useful as strap handles at all, but are at best a somewhat cosmetic means of providing a modicum of standoff protection against frontal damage to the face controls, particularly during transit or storage. In spite of what Tascam claims in the manual, they are simply not secured strongly enough to endure the kind of stresses a shoulder strap would generate. If this device is not operated attached to an articulating arm or a camera in a tripod rig then it should be inside a protective bag with a chest or waist strap. B&H sells several of these bags specifically made for the DR-60D, and that can be used for transit, storage, or for operation. The multifunctional bags are like those carried by a "sound man" and have exit holes matched to the headphone and input ports of the DR-60. They also provide weather protection. One bag has an clear acrylic window that allows visual monitoring of levels. But, be prepared to spend $100+.

The only weakness that I am aware of in this unit is that several people have reported cable lock-ups on one of the XLR ports. I also experienced that on first use. B&H replaced mine under warranty. Otherwise it is a fine unit with excellent features.

 

[Michael Carter]

Thanks for this thread!

This is timely. I also have a Marantz PMD661.

I am looking for a very small recorder to use with a very small camera, the Canon EOS M - about the same size as the NEX. I am thinking an ultralight kit only for ambient sound on a B camera, with the Marantz serving as the main sound unit on the A camera, with a Shure FP33, etc.

I am even thinking of a 3.5 mm only unit just for this, with no XLR. With something like the DR-60 as an "in between" system perhaps ... I was looking at the Tascam DR-40, or really the Zoom H2 - something smaller. Or even an Olympus type recorder.

Any thoughts on that? I don't want to derail this thread, but given your experience with different units, I think others might also be interested to knopw how these all "rank" if you will.

Thanks!

I haven't used a bunch of recorders... my comparisons are more from "real" cams with built in XLRs, and then my protools setup and its associated hardware. My son has the big pro Tascam recorder (don't know the model, like $700) but since he's off in film school I needed a one-man solution for when my "will work for pizza" sound guy (son) isn't around.

Also don't know much about 1/8 gear... I have that Rhode DSLR mic but only for situations where I'm trying to get clearer synch audio into a no-XLR camera... which lately I've just been using the G3 wireless for that.

The tascam does have 1/8 stereo line in, but I assume you'd need a pre-amped signal for that (though many of the consumer-ish 1/8 mics have batteries and pres in 'em). The Tascam line in seems intended for a signal from a mixer, but you can get true 4 track recording based on how you setup the mixer feed into it.

 

[sleroux]

Great review Michael. I don't know how I could have missed it until now (probably because it was not posted on the audio forum )

Gain seems a little low - I almost always have the dial at 90% or full.

That's the one thing that puzzles me while reading the specs. You have the choice between three "gain settings", only the highest going over +50dB:



It feels like if you plan to use low sensibility microphone, either (1) you have to rely on an external preamp to boost the signal up to line level, or (2) use the high-gain setting and turn the dial almost to the max, but according to various reviews, doing so will significantly raise the noise floor.

Could you confirm/infirm that?

 

[wgtwo]

It feels like if you plan to use low sensibility microphone, either (1) you have to rely on an external preamp to boost the signal up to line level, or (2) use the high-gain setting and turn the dial almost to the max, but according to various reviews, doing so will significantly raise the noise floor.

Could you confirm/infirm that?

I use mine with an NTG-1 and it doesn't really reach -12dB with the gain knob turned all the way up on the MID gain setting in typical scenarios. Still pretty happy with the noise floor, though - I opt for raising it in post rather than getting it right in the recorder (by turning gain up to HIGH, meaning that I would have to waste time switching it back if things get loud), which may seem ridiculous, but I did some tests and it doesn't really make much of a difference.

 

[sleroux]

I use mine with an NTG-1 and it doesn't really reach -12dB with the gain knob turned all the way up on the MID gain setting in typical scenarios. Still pretty happy with the noise floor, though - I opt for raising it in post rather than getting it right in the recorder (by turning gain up to HIGH, meaning that I would have to waste time switching it back if things get loud), which may seem ridiculous, [...]

First, thank you for your answer. If I understand it well, on MID setting with dial up to the max (i.e.: +36dB gain) you don't reach -12 dBFS with your NTG-1 in typical scenarios.
For reference, according to the specs, the NTG-1 as a sensibility of 15mV/Pa @ 94dB SPL. Is this considered as high or low sensibility microphone?

Still pretty happy with the noise floor [...] I did some tests and [turning gain to HIGH] doesn't really make much of a difference.

That's a great news. Once again, thank you for your feedback!

 

[Michael Carter]

Mine is always on high gain and pretty much maxed out for a hyper mic (AT4053A) a foot or two from the talent in a blimp. And the AT is no slouch, fairly high end mic. Been very happy with the audio though.

The meters are pretty conservative on the Tascam - go ahead and let them pass the 0DB mark for peaks, you'll see the audio is still clean. I always have the limiter on, with my tests it was inaudible - I spoke softly, them screamed until I got the red LED, and couldn't hear the limiter at all. It's not a total brickwall limiter - really extreme peaks will get through, but in real-world use, I've never made the thing distort. So run it hot, don't let the peak LED light, and activate the minus-6 feature for safety and you should be very happy until you can afford a SoundDevices (or a sound man).