Should I still get a 7D?

[maarek]

The point I was making is that the 5D will take your existing (full frame) lenses - your existing *perspective* and simply give you more frame around the edges.

The op does not have any existing lenses. The perspective maybe the same but the FOV is so different that you can't use for example the 85mm on the 7d in the same role as on the 5d.

 

[vision_filmz]

No...I mean the 60D and 7d can be dialed in at increments: 100, 125, 160, 200, 250, 320, 400, 500, 640, 800, 1000, 1280, 1600 etc.
The T2i (without a hack) and T3i only go in full stops 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, etc.
So for certain low light situations the 60D and 7D can be dialed in more specifically to add brightness without the noise of a full stop...for example if your picture is too dark on a t2i @800 and your aperture is already wide open at lets say 1.8.....you may have to go to the next step up which is 1600..which may bring on the noise. With a 7D or 60D you can dial in 1280 instead which should be cleaner.

You mean 1250, not 1280 . The worst thing about the t2i/t3i is jumping from 800 to 1600, where as you can do 1000, and 1250 on the 60d , 7d, 5d etc.


Also I must say that the best wheel on top to switch between modes is the Canon 60d. You have your actual film camera icon + a button that locks which prevents you from moving it. This is the only Canon dslr that has this awesome function!

 

[ROCKMORE]

The worst thing about the t2i/t3i is jumping from 800 to 1600 .

I find myself shooting at 1000 to 1250 often and it's great to have the option.

 

[M. Gilden]

I find myself shooting at 1000 to 1250 often and it's great to have the option.

Indeed. Its one of the many reasons I don't recommend the T2i to people who aren't willing to install Magic Lantern. If you are, its a fantastic option and on the cheap now.

 

[ROCKMORE]

I'd go for the 60D. Only a little more than the T3 and is quite a better built camera.