New Flexible LED Panels

I am about to start a project that is going to require a bunch of run and gun, and minimal set up time for interviews, AS WELL AS TRAVELING A WHOOOOOLE BUNCH. I have seen the DIY flex guide on the DIY PERKS youtube channel, and am not opposed to making my own. What would be the best set up for my project? Packing space is a SEMI priority, not fussed about the weight, just want the best quality portable lights, happy to make my self.
 
I'd really want space for stands and stand mounts and maybe a battery if going that route though
 
I guess it depends how you are travelling. I tend to travel by car to the majority of my gigs and my assistant is often with me.
I can fit three 3060 panels in the case or maybe two panels with 2 Dedo compact stands and the cabling.
 
Duncan Craig said:
I've been testing the NP battery adaptor for the Travor flex panels.
Using a 3060A panel at full tungsten with 4x DSTE NP970's I got 3 hours and 15mins.

After this time, one of the green LEDs on the battery pack began to flash and the LED panel itself began slowly flashing too.
I checked the batteries charges at this point. The one that was indicated as being low was at 10% while the others were 30,50 and 50
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Thank you for doing this
 
Anyone found a moderately compact battery solution? Using the Dtap and VMount, or going the NP x 4 pack? Is there enough juice to supply with a NP Sony 2 pack? The 4 pack seems a bit big... Would it work with a single NP Sony batt?

Thanks! Been combing eBay and Amazon to find such a beast.
 
Yes I posted about a solution which is a universal power adapter with car input that takes a dc barrel input and you can plug a dtap cable into.
 
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So Duncan.. I take it you can't power up the 3060 or a 3030 with just 2 batts in, or 3 then it appears?
 
Does it have voltage regulation? Because if not the light will slowly get dimmer as the battery voltage drops and likely won't use the full battery capacity. Not to mention weird things that happen to the LEDs as the voltage goes out of spec...

Seems like it wouldn't if it requires 4 batteries in series, since if it had a regulator it could also just have a step adapter.
 
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During my testing the 3060 stayed at a constant brightness for three hours. You can see this on the test images I uploaded recently where the camera exposure was locked down. The battery unit then began slowly flashing the light.
 
I am in for the Falcon eyes ones, they just look very well thought out. Also like that they add extension cable options.
So what would you do, 2 18TD or one 24TDX? I feel like the 24TDX could be too big for some applications.
 
I wanted to update how things have worked out for me with flexible panels. I also want to thank Noah again for all the research he has done. I now have four panels, two 24x12 bicolour Tavor and two 12x12 Tavor. I purchased the recommended ac/dc power supply units as suggested by Noah to run my lights off of my SOny V-lock batteries which are 95w units. I also have an older belt with two xlr outs that also works quite well though it is anything but lightweight.
Simply put I love the bicolour units and use them all the time and I wish my 12x12s were bicolour too but they will do for now and I fit them with Kamerar popup softboxes for interviews and green screen. When you travel as I do all the time these lights are excellent, they weigh nothing and as a result you can use super light stands or other simple mounting options. Recently on a shoot in Barbados where my gear was limited to one checked bag for the director and one for myself they were essential in making the shoot possible and giving me enough light to do setups in the evening outdoors. It is easy to see how all the big players are now in the flexible light biz with bed sheet size instruments now available.
 
I've read through the thread but I'm still unsure of the CRI on these things. Has anyone tested them out with a Spectrometer?

Also, proper footcandle readings for 3030A vs 3060A ?

Cheers, and thank you all for putting together all of this information.
 
doubledark said:
sorry; I meant to ask how to run off Sony NP-F batteries
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Well you would need two per light to power the power supply I listed. You can find Sony NP-F to Sony V-lock adapters on ebay for 40 or 50 bucks maybe less, I believe the are equipped with a D-Tap connector as well. Obviously the lights will use up the NP-F batteries pretty quickly compared to a 95 or larger watt V-Lock or Gold mount. I suppose you could also go with a 12 volt car battery booster unit with lighter output. That would power,depending on the size of unit, a couple of lights. Good luck with it!
As for the CRI question and FootCandle readings..... these are inexpensive at less than $150 a piece, work well and are not precise or at least so I have read. I have not had any issues that could not be dealt with in post with a quick tweek here and there. There are a variety of instruments on the market that will provide you with that for considerably more money. For me, these are great travel lights along with a few other smaller ones like my Z90's in my kit.
 
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