nyvz
Veteran
Yes it's not too hard to convert unregulated d-tap into regulated 24V. See my previous post:
http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthrea...Panels&p=1986698833&viewfull=1#post1986698833
New Flexible LED Panels
- Thread starter nyvz
- Start date
Yes it's not too hard to convert unregulated d-tap into regulated 24V. See my previous post:
http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthrea...Panels&p=1986698833&viewfull=1#post1986698833
nyvz
Veteran
Yeah I was a bit surprised myself. I actually just bought another 18TD for $230 and ordered the deeper softbox with eggcrate partly because I needed more lights for an upcoming job (my 6 travors are on another job and shipping new ones takes a so long if you don't want to pay a 60% markup) and it's hard to argue with the price and design of the falconeyes and the free <5day DHL shipping from China is really impressive.
I may just test further because frankly the falconeyes looks pretty good to my eye and in other tests I've seen so I will try them in the field a but more and keep CTB and minus green and some binderclips on standby..
gabrielrinaldi
New member
I have just received 4x Travor Fl-3060A from Aliexpress.com.
I can confirm that you can control it using the Milight app over Android with the Milight Remote Wifi controller.
Now, I want to build a large 60x120cm led panel using 4x 3060a panels. I'm looking into different power supplies, dc splitters and DC battery options.
DC splitters are straightforward, but I wonder if someone has used a longer cable, say 10m/30 feet to see if you have light loss because of the cable length.
As for power supplies, has anything had success with 4 panels together in one power supply using a 4-way dc splitter? If yes, which power supply did you use?
And for battery, I read some people talking about using a universal AC/DC adapter. How does it work? I have V-mount batteries. How can I use the V-Mount batteries in order to power these panels? And is it also possible to use v-mount batteries to power 4 3060a panels at once? How would that work?
Thanks for this thread. This has been of incredible help!
I can confirm that you can control it using the Milight app over Android with the Milight Remote Wifi controller.
Now, I want to build a large 60x120cm led panel using 4x 3060a panels. I'm looking into different power supplies, dc splitters and DC battery options.
DC splitters are straightforward, but I wonder if someone has used a longer cable, say 10m/30 feet to see if you have light loss because of the cable length.
As for power supplies, has anything had success with 4 panels together in one power supply using a 4-way dc splitter? If yes, which power supply did you use?
And for battery, I read some people talking about using a universal AC/DC adapter. How does it work? I have V-mount batteries. How can I use the V-Mount batteries in order to power these panels? And is it also possible to use v-mount batteries to power 4 3060a panels at once? How would that work?
Thanks for this thread. This has been of incredible help!
Duncan Craig
Active member
I've sent back the 6A PSU and I'm expecting a 7.5A PSU very soon.
2 panels together seem to pull about 120W, so let's say 5A.
For 4 panels you are going to need a 10A PSU at least which is quite unusual and industrial spec.
You might consider using two large 12v batteries in series or a large 24v battery instead.
I'm using an approx 5 metre DC barrel extension on my setup, but I need another.
I made it using 2 core orange garden cable (approx 10A) with screw terminal DC barrel connectors at either end.
I'm not sure if a single DC barrel will handle a sustained 10A current too well.
I'd suggest hard wiring multiple DC barrel sockets directly to the cabling or maybe make some XLR based tails?
2 panels together seem to pull about 120W, so let's say 5A.
For 4 panels you are going to need a 10A PSU at least which is quite unusual and industrial spec.
You might consider using two large 12v batteries in series or a large 24v battery instead.
I'm using an approx 5 metre DC barrel extension on my setup, but I need another.
I made it using 2 core orange garden cable (approx 10A) with screw terminal DC barrel connectors at either end.
I'm not sure if a single DC barrel will handle a sustained 10A current too well.
I'd suggest hard wiring multiple DC barrel sockets directly to the cabling or maybe make some XLR based tails?
Hi, is there an iphone app for this? What additional hardwear is required for the Milight app? Thanks
gabrielrinaldi
New member
Hi Drcoffee, I think there's a Milight app for iphone as well. You need a Milight Remote Wifi controller like this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Milight-WiF...150452?hash=item5d674e68f4:g:W3oAAMXQeW5TaNiU
You plug in the Milight Remote Wifi controller to power (can be a USB power source or to an AC using a regular cellphone power supply). It creates a WIFI zone. Then you open the app and you add a Device (usually a manual comes with the controller, it's kinda straightforward). Then you find the controller alias that's exactly the same as the one that comes in the Travor kit and follow the instructions to connect the light to the app. It takes about 5-10 minutes figuring it out at first. Sounds complicated but it isn't.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Milight-WiF...150452?hash=item5d674e68f4:g:W3oAAMXQeW5TaNiU
You plug in the Milight Remote Wifi controller to power (can be a USB power source or to an AC using a regular cellphone power supply). It creates a WIFI zone. Then you open the app and you add a Device (usually a manual comes with the controller, it's kinda straightforward). Then you find the controller alias that's exactly the same as the one that comes in the Travor kit and follow the instructions to connect the light to the app. It takes about 5-10 minutes figuring it out at first. Sounds complicated but it isn't.
Please forgive my sudden joining in (awaiting approval) ...
Just wanted to ask if there are now any "real world" findings on the color purity of the Travors?
Are skin tones good and usable (or is it far from i.e. Westcott Flex color)?
Are the Daylight Only units as close to daylight CRI as the bi-color when they're set to full daylight?
With the diffuser on, do the bi-color lights have a "spotty" look (since half the lights are not on when set at full daylight and at full tungsten)? Or is the light diffused well and still has a smooth look?
Thanks!
Just wanted to ask if there are now any "real world" findings on the color purity of the Travors?
Are skin tones good and usable (or is it far from i.e. Westcott Flex color)?
Are the Daylight Only units as close to daylight CRI as the bi-color when they're set to full daylight?
With the diffuser on, do the bi-color lights have a "spotty" look (since half the lights are not on when set at full daylight and at full tungsten)? Or is the light diffused well and still has a smooth look?
Thanks!
That's very cool to hear! Any specific uses/setups to share?
ozmorphasis
Well-known member
I'm very curious what the different scenarios were that made these the faves against HMI pars and fresnels. I understand how they could replace Kinos, but these lights can't have that much throw/punch. Were there scenes that required wide shots with multiple characters in the shot? If so, I'd love to see how these achieved your (and/or the other DP's) desired look.
nyvz,
Could you please provide us with any additional information you have learned about using the FalconEyes? Did you find that you needed to filter the lights, or was everyone satisfied with how the lights balanced with daylight? Have you tried any lighting setups with just the FalconEyes (no daylight) to have an opinion on the "richness" of the color, skin tones, etc. when used alone? (In my results, some LED lights can look like there is a slight color "haze" over them, due to limits in their color spectrum.) I want to purchase and use them, but would hate to battle an off-color look that doesn't have sufficient red / magenta information. I've seen the charts of color spectrum that FalconEyes has provided, and there seems to be good red information in the light range, but then there's the slight green predominance that's been reported. Thanks so much for any insights you might be able to share!
Could you please provide us with any additional information you have learned about using the FalconEyes? Did you find that you needed to filter the lights, or was everyone satisfied with how the lights balanced with daylight? Have you tried any lighting setups with just the FalconEyes (no daylight) to have an opinion on the "richness" of the color, skin tones, etc. when used alone? (In my results, some LED lights can look like there is a slight color "haze" over them, due to limits in their color spectrum.) I want to purchase and use them, but would hate to battle an off-color look that doesn't have sufficient red / magenta information. I've seen the charts of color spectrum that FalconEyes has provided, and there seems to be good red information in the light range, but then there's the slight green predominance that's been reported. Thanks so much for any insights you might be able to share!
Are there any samples using i.e. a 3-light setup? After a bit more time has now passed, more opinions on light quality and skin tones would be appreciated.
I've seen just a few examples with the FalconEyes type lights, and they look good-ish, but is there a color cast (spike in color) still there after filtering, even with the 18T (daylight only)?
There also seems to be just a bit of color cast (spike) in the Travor, although they do look closer to daylight (but perhaps a very slight spike which gives a slight overall color haze over the image)?
I've seen just a few examples with the FalconEyes type lights, and they look good-ish, but is there a color cast (spike in color) still there after filtering, even with the 18T (daylight only)?
There also seems to be just a bit of color cast (spike) in the Travor, although they do look closer to daylight (but perhaps a very slight spike which gives a slight overall color haze over the image)?
nyvz
Veteran
Here are two shorts I used my 18TD on for every setup:
https://vimeo.com/226301756
https://vimeo.com/226299550
Also I noticed falconeyes has released new versions, the RX-29TDX and the RX-24TDX. And they also have a RC-3T 2.4ghz remote sold separately, but it's unclear if it only works with the new X models or if it also works with the older models. The RX-29TDX is pretty cool looking, I like that it rolls up half the length and gives twice as wide of a source and implements a new x-bracket design...
Phil Rhodes
Well-known member
What I don't get is why it's considered particularly useful for an LED panel to be flexible. I've used them. I didn't find much reason to bend them. It makes them fractionally bulkier than an otherwise-equivalent rigid panel would be, and compromises cooling and therefore maximum power density in a situation where LEDs generally aren't powerful enough to begin with.
I don't get this interest in bendy lights.
I don't get this interest in bendy lights.
I have one of the Falcon Eye lights and a few of the Travor lights, and I will say that their 'bendiness' isn't that useful to me, but their weight compared to rigid panels have made them very valuable. Rigging is way easier when something weighs ounces rather than pounds, and a rigid frame adds weights.
nyvz
Veteran
If you've ever used litemats you know that having a thin light led panel doesn't necessarily mean it's highly portable. These pack up to less than 1/4 the size of the equivalent litemats and offer various other benefits. Flexibility is also handy if you want a perfectly even 360deg beam spread or if you want to waste part of the unit to fit it into a smaller space.
nyvz
Veteran
Flexibility isn't a must at all, but modularity and portability is a big plus. A modular rigid lightweight LED panel made up of 12x12" panels that can be folded up or disconnected and reconnected in different configurations would be an amazing tool. Litemats are incredibly popular and basically use similar form factor panels but they only come in particular arrangements determined by the manufacturer. Frankly I'd love to see standalone panels that can dock/edge-mount to eachother without cabling and arrange in many different formats. Throw in RGBAW emitters in there and compact flicker-free drivers that can drive a few panels at a time and you'll have a winner. CRI/TLCI is overrated when it comes to RGBAW panels, just look at digital sputnick's super high end RGBW movie lights. I recently installed a bunch of RGBAW pars in a studio and have been pleasantly surprised at the color and even more impressed by the adjustability. If you can find a way to integrate remote control via wifi or BT or art-net or even proprietary RF etc and use drivers that aren't just controlled as one knob per channel with DIY-style connectors, you'll have a big leg up on even the super-popular litegear litemats.
Spartacus
Veteran
Didn't want to let your examples go by uncommented: Great job, Noah!
Besides the fact you being a skilled professional and you clearly know how to handle light/blocking, it's amazing that the components of lighting setups like in your examples can
simply be ordered via eBay.
Technology/gear simply isn't the entry barrier to make a film happen anymore.