Need Advice: Evaluation Settings for Canon EOS 70D

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Denniscasey

Well-known member
I have two cameras out on approval for personal use--will keep one and return one. I will shoot some stills and some video to compare cameras. I have watched "tutorials" and read some articles on 70D (one of cameras I have home to test) and it is clear there is much to learn about the camera to optimize its performance. However I don't have a lot of time so I would appreciate some "baseline" settings I should use to at least shoot some representative stills and video initially having camera on "auto" settings to check auto focus speed and accuracy; auto exposure; dynamic range; etc.

I am used to using video camera (Panasonic HMC40) and am looking to get a camera for shooting high quality stills and also video with shallow DOF look of DSLR. The Canon EOS 70D has good reviews so I want to use it and see real world images and video that fairly represent what camera can do. Whichever camera I keep I will then learn more about manual settings. Thank you, Dennis
 
I should mention it is basic settings I want to be sure to get right--for instance, to get the best auto-focus and ability to keep focus on moving objects while shooting video. In this case I have read that the only way to get full advantage of the "dual pixel" AF is to use LiveView and this applies in both still and video--means using LCD only as mirror has to be up (VF disabled). I will use camera mostly for scenery and shooting vintage sports cars (either stills at car shows or video at races). The other camera I am testing is a mirrorless camera so major pros and cons of mirrorless vs traditional DSLR would be appreciated. Dennis
 
Denniscasey said:
I should mention it is basic settings I want to be sure to get right--for instance, to get the best auto-focus and ability to keep focus on moving objects while shooting video.
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Unless the 70D is light years ahead of any DSLR or video camera in history, you won't be able to use the AF for shooting fast-moving cars.

You will really have to learn to focus when shooting video to get the most out of most cameras these days, if you don't want AF hunting in your shots.

Same with auto exposure - you're not going to be happy with it in most cases. But if you want to evaluate the camera as a sort of consumer video camera, set it all to auto and shoot away. But you'd probably be happier with an actual "video camera" than a DSLR.

YMMV, but I tend to use DSLRs for planned things that need to look pretty first and foremost... narrative, creative, marketing and interview stuff. For events or news type things, where you have to grab what you can as it's happening, I use a video camera (which looks **almost** as good as my DSLRs, but it's a pro-level cam with about 80 tweakable settings, from white balace to color matrix shifts, etc). You'll get the most from a DSLR by evaluating each scene, setting the camera accordingly, adjusting lighting and ND filters, etc.

I can't think of a basic testing setup other than what's been discussed endlessly here since the T2i - neutral profile, lower sharpness and contrast, white balance, 24p, add ND for the f-stop you want, and shoot. Most of that thought process comes from the expectation you'll be grading footage in post.
 
Michael, points taken and agree--as others have also pointed out improving my skills (manual focus, exposure, etc) is a priority, but choosing camera to live with for a while to learn skills is my first step. I am in catch up mode regarding oft discussed settings. One that I noted in your list was "add ND for the f-stop you want." Many videocameras have built in ND filters, but am I correct that 70D does not? I have bought ND filters to use when videocamera's ND is not enough so I will add ND filters to my buy list (ND filters I have are too small for 70D lens).

I typically don't do much grading in post unless I did something really wrong when shooting video with footage I need to keep--for instance in run and gun getting WB wrong and Avid Media Composer has some basic color correction methods to at least pull that back into something close to what video should have been.
 
Sounds like you're on the right track... and yes, DSLRs don't have ND built in, making it another "slow down" thing!

But many lenses lose sharpness due to diffraction at F16 - f22 - ND is used to keep exposure (a) in the sweet spot, and (b) allow you to use exactly the aperture you want to control DOF. (Yes, many people don't just shoot wide open, but decide how soft or sharp the BG should be for the story... amazing, I know!)

I've heard some people are using a magnetic system where ND just snaps onto your lens when using threaded round filters, but haven't seen that. (A matte box is optimal but you're talking a minute or more to add or switch filters, and a big investment - but square filters are truly an "investment" as far as, they'll outlast decades of camera technology). If you go round, get the biggest you think you'll need and adapter rings... you'll also likely need a lens hood that fits the big size, but a $10 rubber hood that can collapse based on focal length can work well. For really wide glass, you may need to get another one and trim it down til it doesn't vignette. (I use rubber hoods to seal off my matte box, they're handy to have for so cheap).

Some people use variable NDs - but those are actually just 2 stacked polarizers. I can't imagine Roger Deakins thinking a shot is too bright and saying "just grab me 2 polas and screw the skin tones!!!". But I guess for run & gun/events they're helpful if you don't have a camera with ND.
 
Just as a guideline:
Set exposure to M. Adjust ISO and shutter and Iris for youyr needs. Iris is decided by your required depth of field, shutter should be set for 1/50s, and ISO should be set to get the proper exposure.
Set the picture style to Neutral, take the contrast all the way down, this increases dynamic range by two stops than normal setting. Keep the sharpness at 2 amd saturation at the middle. That's a nice picture style if you're not planning to grade. If you are, take the values to the minimum. Anyhow experiment and see what suits your intended look, picture styles make a huge difference, for example the Portrait PS (with the same settings) gives lovely skin colour and is ideal when shooting people.

Set Auto lighting optimizer to Off
Set Highlight tone priority to Off

shoot at the highest resolution, 1080p, 24p for film motion of needed

Autofocus in video mode on the 70D is an incridble technology. It really does work. First autofocus on a large sensor video camera really. For manual focus, use the upper left 5-10x magnification button to percisely focus before starting to record.

My take on the 70D image quality, there are better out there. The camera produces quite soft images and produces a lot of image artefacts as aliasing and moire, the softness and aliasing issues are visible in wide detailed shot, while on close ups with shallow dof it looks very very good.

There are many DSLRs with nicer video quality out there, but none have the Autofocus and pro stills features.

Examples of cameras with a higher IQ: Nikon D3300/5200/5300/7100: Sharper + no aliasing + lower noise Sony A6000+A5100: sharper + no aliasing + lower noise, GH4: significantly sharper + no aliasing + a bit worse noise and smaller sensor aesthetic. I would only get the 70D for video if I really need the Autofcous, becasue there's no other choice, but if I am manually focusing (which is better) I'd go with a Nikon/Sony and enjoy the quality jump.
 
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Thank you for helpful baseline settings guidelines, Ebrahim, and your candid comments. Actually the other camera I am looking at is the Sony a6000 and it claims to have "the worlds fastest AF" but compared to what?? In any case would appreciate comments on real world experience with Sony a6000 AF I guess compared to 70D. Dennis
 
The A6000 does have a faster AF when shooting stills, but in video mode the 70D is better, less hunting, better subject tracking, more organic focus pulls overall. It's good you have both cameras to try. Shoot some side by sides to see if the a6000 IQ makes a difference to you, and then also test the AF system in video mode and see which one comes on top. It would be helpful if you post some results.
 
If AF for video is your priority, hang around a bit until the new Samsung NX1 gets tested for video. On paper, it's a freaking beast. $1400 (well, significanty more if you get an NX lens with it, which you'll need for AF - and their new pro lenses are uncharted territory). it **should** trounce anything out there for video AF. 200-some AF points, some new phase detection technology, some serious processing hardware under the hood, 4K at 60fps to standard (affordable) CF cards with 100mbs h.265, no moire filter, etc. Again, that's on paper, but that could be prores territory.

But honestly, if you get serious about this, you're not likely to give a flip about AF in the long run.
 
Ebrahim Saadawi said:
The A6000 does have a faster AF when shooting stills, but in video mode the 70D is better, less hunting, better subject tracking, more organic focus pulls overall. It's good you have both cameras to try. Shoot some side by sides to see if the a6000 IQ makes a difference to you, and then also test the AF system in video mode and see which one comes on top. It would be helpful if you post some results.
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Ebrahim, I appreciate comments from experienced photographers/videographers because you have experience in proper settings to get the best from camera. My issue at this time given multitude of possible settings is lacking experience with camera to be sure I am getting best results (or if results don't look good, is it my fault or camera's fault). That is why your evaluations are so helpful (recognizing some of this of course is individual "look" you want). I will try to post some results comparing cameras, but I am not known for working fast. Dennis
 
Michael, good tip about NX1, but to your point about "getting serious" and eventually doing manual focus anyhow I am thinking I will stick with two selections I have made since I will be the limiting factor for quite some time and not the camera. Dennis
 
Denniscasey said:
Michael, good tip about NX1, but to your point about "getting serious" and eventually doing manual focus anyhow I am thinking I will stick with two selections I have made since I will be the limiting factor for quite some time and not the camera. Dennis
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I did a lot of paying work and some good looking music videos with the lowly T2i... your approach is sound, shoot, shoot shoot, test test test!

Remember when learning this stuff meant a huge lab & film bill?

Anyway, years of DSLR shooting points me to this list of must haves in general order (my opinions only):

--A decent tripod. You can spend a fortune on that alone, but if $$ are tight and you just need something to work with, those "fancier" tripods on Amazon are pretty startling for the money. Got one for my film-school son. He shot b-cam for a pretty a-lister concert and his footage and moves were nice - and he was on an 80-200!

--A loupe. At least for me, that was a must for focus and shooting outdoors. Kemerer QV1 is a great budget loupe.

--A fast lens. The 50 is cheap but on APS-C it's essentially a telephoto. I feel 28mm is the "standard" lens for APS-C and it's a common focal length. The Nikon Series_E is a **decent** 2.8 version for around $100. The Nikkor 28mm 2.8 AIS (not AI) for about $300 is legendary. (You'd need a cheap nikon adapter). Optimally the best first-lens for DSLR video would be something around a 28-70 2.8. But even a 28 will give you a range of DOF to work with and learn about. (Many people prefer a 35 for APS-C "normal", depends if your "normal" pref is a little wide or a little more compressed).

Even if your kit zoom is in that range, it changes aperture, you can't get a full variety of DOF, and the focus ring (and feel) likely suck...

--ND for your lens - even cheap eBay .3, .6 and .9 screw ons. I shot for some time with $20 NDs and really - it's not a huge quality hit, on web footage I couldn't even tell. For for $40 or so you can get a set to at least start learning how to choose ND.

--A follow focus (and thus rails). The Fotga that's under $200 is stunning for the bucks. Their $70 rail system is just fine to start with. All on Amazon.
 
Michael, Thank you again for tips and encouragement. I decided to give the Sony a6000 a trial first and then try the Canon EOS 70D so I am now learning how to use the a6000. The reason is the EVF on the Sony is something I really would like to have based on my video experience with Panasonic AG HMC40. As forum members have all pointed out, each camera has pros and cons (mostly just different pros) so it looks like either one will be ok. Dennis
 
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