GH5 ND filter for video: I look for a good filter for gh5

Yes please, I hope the moderator close this thread because I still don't know where I made an error in Africa. You are writing there is a language barrier. it is the most right reply here. Other replies didn't solve my problem because I didn't make any error with my GH5 as I didn't make any error in my country. But only in Africa I got bad clips. Did you ask me why I'm disappointed with my shots? My clips are very dense of colours and very underexposed. But you are still telling me you don't see bad clips. Then you tell me I'm the problem. I don't understand it. But above all I don't understand why I made good shots in some african town but I made bad shots in the villages where there is red earth. Maybe it's a filter problem? What filter could I put? It is very easy to shoot in manual with GH5. When I see aligned cursors the camera viewfinder I start the shots.
 
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Ok for real here...Fox is Italian, yes? Is there seriously no one here who speaks Italian, is married to an Italian, friends with one, etc. , knows an Italian speaker any any way shape or form that Fox could write, fairly succintly, his problems in his native language and go back and forth a bit until all parties are clear? Seems doable enough.
 
Yes please, I hope the moderator close this thread because I still don't know where I made an error in Africa. You are writing there is a language barrier. it is the most right reply here. Other replies didn't solve my problem because I didn't make any error with my GH5 as I didn't make any error in my country. But only in Africa I got bad clips. Did you ask me why I'm disappointed with my shots? My clips are very dense of colours and very underexposed. But you are still telling me you don't see bad clips. Then you tell me I am the problem. I don'0t understand it. But above all I don't understand why I made good shoots in some african town but I made shoots in the villages where there is red earth. Maybe it's a filter problem? What filter could I put? It is very easy to shoot in manual with GH5. When I see aligned cursors the camera viewfinder I start the shots.

Underexposed footage is 100% related to the operator. If you can’t even acknowledge this, then you’ll never be able to move on...same for us. ;)
 
Ok for real here...Fox is Italian, yes? Is there seriously no one here who speaks Italian, is married to an Italian, friends with one, etc. , knows an Italian speaker any any way shape or form that Fox could write, fairly succintly, his problems in his native language and go back and forth a bit until all parties are clear? Seems doable enough.

That’s not even half of the problem. The real problem is that he want us to point out his errors and give him the solution without understanding why.
 
Ok problem solved Fox...I think I remember you mentioning you've been shooting video for 30 for 40 years...could be off by a bit here but sufficient to say you're a grown man! Below is a link to the advanced GH5 User manual in Italian....NO MORE LANGUAGE PROBLEM (excuse the caps for emphasis but this could truly solve the problem for you!)

https://eww.pavc.panasonic.co.jp/dscoi/DC-GH5/EG_EC_EF_EB/DC-GH5_DVQP1124ZB_ita.pdf

PS....I used about 2 minutes of my time to find this for you.
 
Ok problem solved Fox...I think I remember you mentioning you've been shooting video for 30 for 40 years...could be off by a bit here but sufficient to say you're a grown man! Below is a link to the advanced GH5 User manual in Italian....NO MORE LANGUAGE PROBLEM (excuse the caps for emphasis but this could truly solve the problem for you!)

https://eww.pavc.panasonic.co.jp/dscoi/DC-GH5/EG_EC_EF_EB/DC-GH5_DVQP1124ZB_ita.pdf

PS....I used about 2 minutes of my time to find this for you.

Harry on post #35 did the same but I doubt Fox read it.
 
When I see aligned cursors the camera viewfinder I start the shots.
This is your first problem. These indicators are primarily for stills photography. You should use the scopes or zebras for exposure esp if you are shooting LOG or HLG but really for any video profile. All the exposure indicator does is show the brightness of the image is a mid grey brightness so if you have subjects (dark skin) that is darker or lighter than mid grey the overall exposure will be wrong. Also if there are very bright area in the frame like sky then the exposure will be wrong. Correct exposure for video takes skill and experience.
 
I accept this reply because it explains where I made an error. I always shoot with "Natural" preset with -1 Contrast and -1 Sharpness. I don't understand because thos indicators are primarily for stills photography and not for video. You are telling me I have to use the scopes . What is it precisely? I don't understand the english word.
 
I accept this reply because it explains where I made an error. I always shoot with "Natural" preset with -1 Contrast and -1 Sharpness. I don't understand because thos indicators are primarily for stills photography and not for video. You are telling me I have to use the scopes . What is it precisely? I don't understand the english word.

There is a waveform monitor in the display settings ( scopes). Also I would seriously consider using HLG or V-LOG for you picture profile ( setting NR and sharpening to -5) as it gives you more flexibility in post production for correcting exposure mistakes (assuming you are using a 10bit Codec) and uses more of the dynamic range of the sensor.I twill also give you more accurate colour if you understand how to process it. Practice and master these tools and you will be able to get the results you are looking for.
 
I can try to help Adriano so I have to write in italian. Sorry guys.
Adriano, cosa intendi quando dici troppa densità di colore? Le immagini ti sembrano troppo sature? A me sinceramente sembrano buone, niente comunque che non puoi modificare facilmente in post produzione. In ogni caso, prova ad abbassare la saturazione (-3 o più) e la "sharpness" (-5). Abbasserei a -5 anche la riduzione rumore. L'esposizione la puoi ovviamente decidere solo tu, nel momento che effettui la ripresa. La correzione colore in post, in ogni caso, è quasi sempre necessaria per poter ottenere l'immagine che desideri.
 
Francesco, we can't talk in italian language in this forum, otherwise guys complain. Do you mean I can low those parameters in the "Natural" preset in the menu of the GH5? About "dense colours" I mean not only saturation. Saturation is easy to modify. I mean bad clip on everything beside colours. If my clips look so good even if they are underexposed I will not pay attention anymore on exposure on my GH5. But I'd like to understand where I made the error when I shot in Africa. Was it my error or the problem was of the red earth? You can send me a PM, so that I can understand better. I thought the sliders in the GH5 Menu were also used for video. Instead here they told me that sevono only for still images. In short, I was just starting to shoot when the Exposure/shutter speed sliders were aligned. But it seems even in this case I made an error. I thank you for your "pazienza e aiuto".
 
Adriano. You need to learn how to set exposure. If you have fixed the shutter speed at 100 ( correct to the rule for 50P to control appropriate motion blur for the chosen frame rate ), you still have to manage the iso/gain, aperture/iris and the ND filter to get the correct amount of light to the sensor. Zebra setting will show you when you hit the set exposure limit or the waveform monitor can show you the distribution across the image. For light skin tones zebra at 70% for dark skin it will be less but you will have to test and decide what you like. Too low and it will be difficult to recover in editing too high and the detail is lost for ever. As far as menus in GH5 if they are active in the video setting they will work in video. Different presets will have different menu items active. For instance if Like709 is set then the levels parameters are not available to modify since that is exactly what has been set to correspond to REC709. I still do not understand what you mean by ugly. You need to quote things like saturation, colour, detail, sharpness for us to understand. Maybe you and Francesco can talk in Italian and he can explain to us.
 
Ron, it is hard to explain what I mean with "ugly". It is better I attach two original clips to explain better. The first one is with right exposure, only a bit underexposed. In fact there was no red earth.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/mqyfjuhsdixsmy3/B.MOV?dl=0
The second one is a bad clip with dense colours. You never can correct those colors and make it like the first clip. The first clip is only a bit underexposed but with lighter in colors. It is more nice and restful to look at.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/o2arxjumobae8no/A.MOV?dl=0
Now I hope you know what I mean with dense colours.
 
Ha ha ha!!!

A kind Italian fellow offers to help in Italian to eliminate the language issue, and the OP refuses because others would complain???

Oh man... Nuttiest thread in a long while!

I’m leaning towards the performance art / master troll / rogue bot explanation here.
 
The second shot is recoverable if what you mean by ugly is the lady is underexposed to the background that is bright and almost well exposed. Not sure if you are up to this. Using a tracking mask on the lady use combined filters and set inside filters to YUV and raise the levels to get her exposure as you wish. Then set outside filters on the mask to lower the chroma levels on everything else. I am busy this afternoon but will try this in EDIUS 8.53WG ( I know you have EDIUS 9 so should be much the same ) to see if I can approach what you want. The source issue is you underexposed when you took the shot though. That is why you need to learn the exposure tools that are in the GH5.
 
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If in manual the association of the aligned cursors don't make sense, yes, you are right I have to learn the exposure. But it is not easy to know where I can learn it. ;) But don't lose your time please. I already did what you are writing. What I like to know is why I make errors with every shot. Sure I didn't use Zebra because I relied on aligned cursors. It seems incredible those cursors made me swerve so much when in still pics they are OK.
 
I have zebras set all the time and can toggle on waveform monitor to check the whole scene. Would be worthwhile you learning how to use both.

Then if it was the lady you wanted to expose for you can make sure she is has the correct exposure without really blowing out everything else. That way you can grade afterwards. If you overexpose you have lost the detail. Same for too underexposed but this is easier to correct if there is not too much noise when corrected. In you clips they seem fine for correction. Still not sure why you are so upset.
 
It seems to me like the errors in exposure have to do with misunderstanding the GH5 exposure meter (the "cursors" as the OP calls it). If the OP has had success using this method (which I use often but I understand how and why it works), but not in Africa, my guess is that the bright skies are making him underexpose because, as we know, it's a reflectance meter expecting to see middle gray. I suggest the OP learn about how reflectance meters work. Or just how DSLR camera exposure tools work. In short, the camera's meter is calibrated to middle gray. If you fill the frame with an object that is SUPPOSED to be brighter than middle gray, and you set your "cursors" to align, your image will be underexposed, because the meter doesn't know that what you are shooting is supposed to be bright. Make sense? You can also read about The Zone System. All these methods work in both still photography and video.
 
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