T2i Magic Lantern for 550D in progress!

No such file or directory. Just realized I forgot to mention that the card reader is built into the laptop. Don't know if that makes a difference.

Id gladly do a screen share with you. If you want me to stop polluting the thread with this just email me at zechproductions(at)gmail.com
 
Is there a way to keep the light readout (ev) online - at all times ? (ie. without pressing any button)

(if it was mentioned somewhere - I'm sorry. I'm trying to grasp info as much as I can...)
 
Would that interfere with other processes that's going on ? (ie. making an emulated half-press vie menu selection and/or lcd+some button)
 
With ML bottom bar, autofocus (if it's not on * button)... and I hope that's all. It might also force you to remove the battery after each use (that happened with Trap Focus in continuous mode, and that's why I've disabled it).
 
I have a simple question to anyone that can answer this, Should i uninstall Magic Lantern from the body of the camera? because i need to send it in to canon for repair, It's making some rattling noise everytime i move the camera =[
 
IS anyone having problems with Magic Zoom? I can't get it to do it anymore on the latest magic lantern update. It's not just magic zoom during recording but I also lost the ability to do a normal zoom.
 
Quite a nice upgrade! The small writing at the bottom of the screen telling the user exactly what each feature actually does is a huge addition - it means you don't have to completely educate a 1st AC or some other user unfamiliar w/ ML.

And would you elaborate on this new feature mentioned on the site?

"- Experimental mode for silent pictures: FullHD."

Thanks - seriously, just awesome!
 
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It is a 3rd party lens. Nikon 24mm to be exact but I didn't have this problems before I upgraded to the latest build?
 
a1ex, two suggestions :

1) As I tend to print the manual every few builds, it would be nice to add a version history (just copy/paste your "what new in this build") in the Manual.

2) This may be Sci Fi but I'll give it a shot (pun not intended...) : can you build some kind of an overlay (like crop marks) of SPLIT PRISM so that those of us that use manual focus (well, a LOT of us) would be able co better confirm the focus (y'know, like in the old days : two half circles that approach each other - or get away from each other - until focus is achieved). I was pondering the idea of buying a new focusing screen for my T2i but then remembered that it won't do me much good as my only monitoring means is the LCD.

Thanks a LOT !

A.
 
Magic Zoom shouldn't be affected by the lens, except for focus ring trigger (which is optional and only works for lenses which report focus distance). Make sure GlobalDraw is on. There is one mode where it overrides normal 5x/10x zoom (use LCD sensor to bypass this).

For split prism... I'm not sure it can be done in software, do you have any idea of the math involved?
 
a1ex said:
For split prism... I'm not sure it can be done in software

Do you have any idea of the math involved?
Click to expand...
No SIR :embarasse

Unfortunately, god has blessed me only with creative (and entrepreneurship) abilities.

I was thinking of this with Morpheus (Matrix 1 movie) in mind :

I can only show you the door.... YOU have to walk through it...
Click to expand...
:)

One general idea that comes to mind (without denoting the math included) :

You set the screen (set either with FF arrows or with real FF) to on extreme of
focus... then you set the screen to the other extreme. the difference will be
mathematically translated in some way to the distance between the two half-prisms.
as you change focus between the two extremes it effectively changes the values of
the "current focus" and as a result - set the current position of the "half-prisms". so
you change the values until they perfectly attach to each other.

I believe that this if feasible with (at least) the built-in FF mechanism.
the question that arises is whether it is feasible with REAL FF (which means that every
PHYSICAL position on the lens circumference most have a mathematical value that can
be read by ML. there must be a mechanism to warn you you have "crossed" the FF
borders and as a result, you need to reset the focus borders values)

//end gabbing :smile:
 
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I don't really get it; some parts of image will be in focus and others will not, and you can't detect that with a simple (i.e. scalar) distance measurement.

Basically, it's just focus peaking with different display?

jdv: in FullHD silent picture mode, ML will record a dummy video (to be able to capture a higher-res silent pic), and it will delete it afterwards. It should result in better resolution for silent timelapse, and it will drain the battery faster. When using it, you can set QScale to +16 to save a few CPU cycles.
 
a1ex said:
I don't really get it; some parts of image will be in focus and others will not
Click to expand...
Umm... what ?

The image stays intact, the MLPM (Magic Lantern Prism Mechanism) is an OVERLAY of two half-circle that approaches each other (or retracts from the other) - depending their "location" value.


a1ex said:
and you can't detect that with a simple (i.e. scalar) distance measurement.
Click to expand...
Can ML assign a value to a current physical circumferential location ? ie. turn the focus ring to
some location and press a button - this is location "A". turn the focus ring to
another location and press a button - this is location "B". now you have two values and
they serve the two extremes of the focus range. every step in between those values will
have value of his own and effectively - a location for the left half-prism and the right half-prism.

The focus in archived by perfectly aligning the two half prisms together.

I hope what I have said makes sense... :undecided
 
I was thinking at what I saw on an old film camera; it was something like the circle from here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Focus-screen-1.jpg and http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Focus-screen-2.jpg

When the image is in focus, that pattern disappears.

For split prism, you need to know whether you have focused too far or too close, and when you have perfect focus. The focus graph tries to do this, but it's not an absolute measure; it works best when you cross the focus point, as it will see a peak there. It won't say in which direction you are out of focus.

It could be interesting to try to have an alternate display of the focus graph, but in the form of a split prism, like you say. This would be a modified magic zoom. What do you think?
 
a1ex said:
I was thinking at what I saw on an old film camera; it was something like the circle from here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Focus-screen-1.jpg and http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Focus-screen-2.jpg

When the image is in focus, that pattern disappears.
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YES SIR :thumbsup: THATS IT !

a1ex said:
For split prism, you need to know whether you have focused too
far or too close, and when you have perfect focus. The focus graph tries to do this, but it's
not an absolute measure; it works best when you cross the focus point, as it will see a
peak there.

It could be interesting to try to have an alternate display of the focus graph, but in the form
of a split prism, like you say. This would be a modified magic zoom. What do you think?
Click to expand...
I think it could help IMMENSELY.
 
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