T2i Magic Lantern for 550D in progress!

Yes, that's right.

(my message from yesterdey disappeared... or maybe it didn't even arrive in the first place)

There are not many users who tried this method, but those who tried said it worked well.

There are no guarantees that it will remove all traces from ML; that's what we believe it should do :)
 
Appreciate it Alex, thanks very much.
When it comes to re-installing, I guess I just go through the whole install process, (ML firmware to camera, and Autoexec/cropmarks folder to the card as per normal) ?
 
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Havnt tried yet, not taking the camera in till next Monday, so want to use over the weekend. Will let you know if it all goes well. Thanks a lot.
Just tried the latest build. Follow focus is great, works very quickly with my Sigma 18-50 2.8. Just noticed that its very quick when using the up/down buttons, and slower, which is a great help for precise focus when pressing the left/right buttons. Dont know if this is intentional, but it works wonderfully.
 
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follow focus is hot! Too bad I invested in all manual focus lenses... :/

Meanwhile, a1ex, how plausible is it to change the routine that controls analog video output to a monitor? For some inexplicable reason, using the video out cable to a standard def monitor is always forced to be 4:3 ratio, which means the camera always letterboxes the display with a horizontal black bars. I happen to have a widescreen external monitor that I was planning on mounting to the tripod for help with quick focusing, etc. But since the camera only outputs 4:3 letterboxed, the only thing I can do on the screen to keep the image from being warped is set it to display at 4:3, which then places black bars on the left and right of the image as well.
The end result is my live view of video in a TEENY TINY portion of the center of the display, surrounded by a bounding box of annoying black bars on all sides!

I know folks have asked about this before, but its one of those things that's come up again recently. Its ironically better to use the internal LCD for focusing because it actually displays more pixels than outputting to an external standard def one.

I suppose the solution would be to use HDMI, but I can't afford an HD monitor now, not to mention I think it would kill my ability to use audio monitoring.

What do you think? Is this something we can have access to? Or is it so hard-coded into the camera's routine that all hope is futile?
 
can we edit the bmp files in the "cropmrks" folder to our liking? I haven't installed ML yet, but am planning to when I get my new T2i in the next week or so.

Thanks.
 
> how plausible is it to change the routine that controls analog video output to a monitor?

Nope...
 
Follow Focus Record Problems

Follow Focus Record Problems

Hi Alex,
Thanks for your work on this.

Latest build - I tried out the follow focus and works well without recording. When I go to record, record starts, then camera stalls on 'BUSY' (bottom left corner) and follow focus does not work. I have to then switch off camera and take out battery as concerned that it might do damage. - Any thoughts? Others having this problem?

Thanks,
Zerocode
 
Zerocode said:
Hi Alex,
Thanks for your work on this.

Latest build - I tried out the follow focus and works well without recording. When I go to record, record starts, then camera stalls on 'BUSY' (bottom left corner) and follow focus does not work. I have to then switch off camera and take out battery as concerned that it might do damage. - Any thoughts? Others having this problem?

Thanks,
Zerocode
Click to expand...


Uh oh, mine did the exact same thing on the first try.

That was spooky turning off the switch and nothing happened until I pulled the battery.

Edit: This was the build that had the phrase "scotch tape" in the title by the way.



Interesting to see if this is happening across the board on this build.
 
My T2i just totally died. It had the Feb 14th ML build on it. It also had an SDHC card in it that was cracked though.
It had hardly been used recently. Could the card or ML be responsible? It had been cutting on and off very recently but I thought it was just ML being weird.

When I send it in to Canon, will they know I had ML on it if the ML SDHC card is not there?
Lenny
 
Unless they probed the software they would not know.
ML only exists on the card, the first step that you did to the camera was just turning on the boot from SD mode.
They could tell if they really wanted to, but my guess is that they would look at the HW first, and then wipe the firmware with out even looking at what was installed.
 
How did it die? Did you turn it off and it refused to turn back on?

Try starting it without card, or with a formatted card.
 
Tried both no card and a non ML card that I know is good.

When I turn it on the screen stays black. and there are some blinking red lights at the bottom which soon stop. No buttons do anything except the Live view which makes a clicking sound, then I hear another clicking sound and that's it. If I turn the camera on and off there will now be no response at all.

Lenny
 
Lenilenapi said:
Tried both no card and a non ML card that I know is good.

When I turn it on the screen stays black. and there are some blinking red lights at the bottom which soon stop. No buttons do anything except the Live view which makes a clicking sound, then I hear another clicking sound and that's it. If I turn the camera on and off there will now be no response at all.

Lenny
Click to expand...

I know it sounds topical and stupid, but: did you try taking the battery out and charging it again? or, even better: maybe it's your battery charger who died...
 
soren said:
Okay a1ex and other interested parties, here are some basic measurements of current draw on the t2i/550d...


Basic t2i with body cap only. ML NOT present:
LCD brightness at "0" 400 mA
LCD brightness at "4" 430 mA
LCD brightness at "7" 460 mA

Basic t2i with Tamron 17-50 f/2.8 (lens cap on). ML NOT present:
LCD brightness at "0" 420 mA
LCD brightness at "4" 450 mA
LCD brightness at "7" 480 mA


ML t2i with body cap only. ML jan16 build in stock configuration, ie no magic.cfg present at startup.
LCD brightness at "0" 420 mA
LCD brightness at "4" 450 mA
LCD brightness at "7" 480 mA

ML t2i with Tamron 17-50 f/2.8 (lens cap on). ML jan16 build in stock configuration, i.e no magic.cfg present at startup.
LCD brightness at "0" 440 mA
LCD brightness at "4" 470 mA
LCD brightness at "7" 500 mA


ML t2i with body cap only. ML feb12 build in stock configuration, ie no magic.cfg present at startup.
LCD brightness at "0" 420 mA
​
LCD brightness at "4" 450 mA
LCD brightness at "7" 480 mA
With display OFF via ML 380 mA

ML t2i with Tamron 17-50 f/2.8 (lens cap on). ML feb12 build in stock configuration, i.e no magic.cfg present at startup.
LCD brightness at "0" 440 mA
LCD brightness at "4" 470 mA
LCD brightness at "7" 500 mA
With display OFF via ML 400 mA


The above values were taken while in movie mode and on standby, ie while NOT recording.

I used a modified ac adapter with a multimeter configured as an ammeter.

With the display ON, it seems that Magic Lantern only adds about 5% in current draw vs a stock t2i.

With the display OFF, it seems that Magic Lantern saves about 10% to 20% in current draw.

Hope this helps. :)
Click to expand...

Good stuff, thanks man!
 
soren said:
With the display ON, it seems that Magic Lantern only adds about 5% in current draw vs a stock t2i.

With the display OFF, it seems that Magic Lantern saves about 10% to 20% in current draw.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the test, very interesting results. Can you also test the power consumption with GlobalDraw off and/or display off?
 
Norman, its not stupid as I have 2 chargers and one was not connected right & not charging some of them , but alas it wasn't the problem

This is a duplicate of what I have written on the other thread- I just want to make sure Alex sees it - Sorry
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OK more tests. The camera seems to function out of live view in still modes.
I can see the readout in the viewfinder for stills and adjust ASA shutter etc. and it will snap stills.
If I hit the live view button though it I hear it click then it freezes and I see an Err 70 code in the viewfinder.
At that point I have to turn off pull the battery and put it in again and then the viewfinder functions again.

If I just go into movie mode I also hear the click and the freeze and the Error message in the viewfinder.

EOS utility connects OK but when you put it in live view through the software the same thing happens you get an err 70 code and the software freezes as well
 
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