T2i Magic Lantern for 550D in progress!

This only works on the built-in display, and only displays the colors (and a colorful histogram).

Spotmeter should be the IRE reading.
 
a1ex said:
NormanBates: can you try this build and see if it solves redraw issues?
http://groups.google.com/group/ml-d.../6524eda943eecdcf?show_docid=6524eda943eecdcf
Click to expand...

wow, that was quick!!

it is much, much, much better now, the zebras don't go around erasing everything else on the screen anymore

the only issue I still see is that the "recording" icon dissappears after half-pressing the shutter, but at least now it is a consistent behaviour, and the red light at the lower-right corner of the camera goes on blinking, so I can totally live with that

MAGIC LANTERN FOR THE 550D: NOW WITH BEST-IN-CLASS CUSTOMER SERVICE!!!


edit: oh, and now that it works perfectly, I've updated my cropmark to use single-pixel lines only:
http://www.similaar.com/foto/cropmarks/mlcropmarks.html
use it as you please

is there a way to hide canon's focusing-zone white rectangle?
 
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I see a lot of people claiming that they reformat their SD card often to keep it running fast and efficiently.

With ML, is that necessary? Doesn't reformatting also wipe the boot data? Would we then have to remake the SD card "bootable" each time we reformat, and then copy over the ML files again?

Or is reformatting really not necessary?
 
is there a way to hide canon's focusing-zone white rectangle?
Click to expand...
Press Trash twice :)

reformat their SD card often to keep it running fast and efficiently.
Click to expand...
Formatting the card from the camera will remove ML, and you'll have to make it bootable again. You can use "delete all files". After a crash (err70, freeze) you may get the filesystem corrupted; in this case, you have to format. It happens to me when doing experiments on the camera.
 
a1ex said:
Press Trash twice
Click to expand...
or do a half-press screen redraw :)
nice!

reformatting the card:
the reason it is good to do this often is that flash memory is fastest and most reliable when it is writing over "all zeroes" or something like that, so best practice, which I try to follow, is "never erase anything from the card, except with a low level format on the camera itself"; reinstalling ML is a two-step process that takes about 15 seconds, so try not to be too lazy: just write yourself a nice .bat for copying all the stuff to the SD card and store it on a folder with the EOScard.exe file
(tip: you want to rescue your config file and save it on the PC before formatting the card)

cropmarks:
I'll give mine some more work soon: now it is messing a bit with the layout (makes reading the histogram a bit confusing at times, and the IRE reading erases the central crosshair), and a safe-subtitles marker could be nice
so, if anybody has any more ideas on things they'd like to get in a custom cropmark, now is the perfect time: drop your suggestions here, I can easily create a bunch of different options now that I've got the know-how in my head (knowing how my memory works, I'll forget everything about this in about a week...)
 
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I've uploaded four new cropmarks

differences with the standard CineScop.bmp:

* just lines instead of dark blocks to show how the image will look when cropped; some people prefer to block it all, I prefer this setting (I can use it both for 16:9 and 2.35:1, and even when shooting 2.35:1 knowing what's beyond the frame can be useful sometimes)

* correct aspect ratio: for a 720 pixels wide image, CineScop.bmp marks just 302 lines as "your image should fit here", which means 2.38:1 (that is: when you crop your 2.35:1 image, part of what was behind the red lines will be visible); I've changed that to 306 lines, which means 2.35:1 (whatever is below my white lines won't appear on the final image)

* top and bottom bars are now color number 20, instead of color number 2; this is the same color that alex is using as background for text, so now it looks less cluttered after a redraw (color 20 looks purple on the PC, but is semitransparent dark gray on the camera)

* trimmed my vertical lines to avoid messing up with the histogram

* changed the central crosshair for a bracket, to a void messing up with the IRE information

* lines now in white ("w") or black ("b")

* with ("3") or without ("2") subtitle-safe area

here are the files:
http://www.similaar.com/foto/cropmarks/mlcropmarks.html
http://www.similaar.com/video/similaar2b.bmp
use as you please
 
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NormanBates said:
or do a half-press screen redraw :)
nice!

reformatting the card:
the reason it is good to do this often is that flash memory is fastest and most reliable when it is writing over "all zeroes" or something like that, so best practice, which I try to follow, is "never erase anything from the card, except with a low level format on the camera itself"; reinstalling ML is a two-step process that takes about 15 seconds, so try not to be too lazy: just write yourself a nice .bat for copying all the stuff to the SD card and store it on a folder with the EOScard.exe file
(tip: you want to rescue your config file and save it on the PC before formatting the card)

cropmarks:
I'll give mine some more work soon: now it is messing a bit with the layout (makes reading the histogram a bit confusing at times, and the IRE reading erases the central crosshair), and a safe-subtitles marker could be nice
so, if anybody has any more ideas on things they'd like to get in a custom cropmark, now is the perfect time: drop your suggestions here, I can easily create a bunch of different options now that I've got the know-how in my head (knowing how my memory works, I'll forget everything about this in about a week...)
Click to expand...

Thanks! Can you create a custom cropmork that includes two vertical lines, splitting the frame in thirds? Thanks again.
 
just that? I mean... do I put that on top of my similaar2w cropmark, or just the vertical lines and nothing else? And if it is to be set on top of the similaar2w cropmark, is it fine if I just put a 100-or-so-pixels-high line, as the ones I've already got on similaar2w, or do you want it top-to-bottom?

edit: I mean... is this what you want, or should I prolong those lines to the top and bottom and erase the horizontal lines and/or the central bracket?
http://www.similaar.com/foto/cropmarks/mlcropmarks.html

(right now, the vertical lines are 1/3-of-cinemascope high)
(it wasn't so before on cropmarks 2 and 3, but it sounded like a good idea, so I just updated them too)
 
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NormanBates said:
just that? I mean... do I put that on top of my similaar2w cropmark, or just the vertical lines and nothing else? And if it is to be set on top of the similaar2w cropmark, is it fine if I just put a 100-or-so-pixels-high line, as the ones I've already got on similaar2w, or do you want it top-to-bottom?

edit: I mean... is this what you want, or should I prolong those lines to the top and bottom and erase the horizontal lines and/or the central bracket?
http://www.similaar.com/video/similaar4b.bmp
http://www.similaar.com/video/similaar4w.bmp

(right now, the vertical lines are 1/3-of-cinemascope high)
(it wasn't so before on cropmarks 2 and 3, but it sounded like a good idea, so I just updated them too)
Click to expand...
Thanks for your efforts. Similaar4b is great. But I would like for you to extend the vert lines to touch your horizontal lines.
 
question, I'm about to head to a music video shoot right now and I have installed magic lantern. Its not going to matter a whole lot for this, but for some reason the ISO menu is not even showing up in the magic lantern menu.. did I do something wrong or can you only access it from a certain mode?
 
Azmyth said:
question, I'm about to head to a music video shoot right now and I have installed magic lantern. Its not going to matter a whole lot for this, but for some reason the ISO menu is not even showing up in the magic lantern menu.. did I do something wrong or can you only access it from a certain mode?
Click to expand...
Press "trash can" button -> scroll to the "Expo" menu. You see the ISO.
 
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