Doc Bernard
Indie Arms Member
You and me both.Of course, I REALLY want a Sound Devices recorder personally![]()
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You and me both.Of course, I REALLY want a Sound Devices recorder personally![]()
Okay, broke out one of my go-to books. What we are talking about here is the "inverse Square" law.
This means when you double the original distance in a free space you reduce the intensity to 1/4 of the initial value. 3 times gives you reduction to 1/9th the original. So if you are recording at a 60 db sound @ 10 ft., at 20 foot, it will be 15 db., at 30 it will be 6.67 db. The louder the sound, or the closer you are into it, gives you a more usuable range of distance in which to record passable sound.
LOL, take it up with the Master Handbook of Acoustics. That was a quote and using the math they show. Pg. 9, Chapter 1 "Fundamentals of Sound". Logarithmic math does not work like you describe. You cannot just reverse the numbers, and say, "see, the numbers are wrong." The sound source is the level it is. You cannot make it louder by getting closer to it, or going behind it. It flattens out to the level it is. But you can lose recorded intensity by getting further away.1) First, the sound intensity (level) is not same as the sound pressure level, which is typically talked about in audio recording.
2) The example that 60db @ 10ft -> 15 db @ 20 ft -> 6.67db @ 30ft, is totally wrong, regardless whether you were talking about sound intensity or sound pressure level. Assuming these numbers are about sound pressures. Let's reverse the relation: 6.67db @ 30 ft -> 15db@20ft -> 60db@10ft -> 120@5ft -> roughly 180db @3or4 feet away, which is enough to kill humans instantly!!! If that were true, you would make a murderingly loud jet engine 3-4 feet away sound like whispering by running back from it about 20 feet away.
Alone, probably not. But put a mixer in between, then maybe. But that will be another piece of gear to wear. See why people are saying you cannot do both, and do it well?Well, perhaps if I bought a NTG-2 or something similar with a shock mount I could mount it for run and gun if absolutely necessary. Then I could also use it on a boom if I have more time to set up a shot. I'm a tad worried that it might not be hot enough for the Zoom though.
Well, perhaps if I bought a NTG-2 or something similar with a shock mount I could mount it for run and gun if absolutely necessary. Then I could also use it on a boom if I have more time to set up a shot. I'm a tad worried that it might not be hot enough for the Zoom though.
What would I do? No one puts a gun to your head and forces you to roll camera today! Seriously, I would defer filming and make my first production activity finding someone to team up with who can share the workload. Trying to do it all yourself will likely produce a half-a**ed result and the last thing the world needs is another half-a**ed video - YouTube is plastered with 'em. If it's not been done right, it's not been done.yeah I totally understand. If you were in the scenario where you were alone, but needed to film, what would you do?
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I was by myself and had to record some footage at a party (interviews and crowd scenes) and was faced with juggling my h4n and my 7D at the same time. It really wasn't easy and the results won't be great.
What would be a good solution for these types of scenarios? I'm not looking for pro quality sound and I realise I can't ask for miracles. The footage is just for vimeo and isn't paid work either. I need something that I can really run and gun with, preferably mounted to the camera.
I suppose the AGC on the 7D causes problems. Let me know what you think with regards to this situation. Obviously I'm going to look into getting better results under other circumstances though.
Thanks very much.
Nice! That is almost identical to what the book says. And they use the same types of diagrams. The physics of sound can get intense, and that is why I got into it. I joked about the math, but the math is actually fun.
Given that scenario I would actually recommend getting a Rode VideoMic Pro and installing Magic Lantern on the 7D so you can turn off the AGC. It's pretty directional and the stuff I have heard from it in ENG run and gun shooting is pretty good.
Go to Philip Blooms site and look/ listen to some of the crowd party stuff he shot with it and you can get a feel for what to expect.
One problem with your scenario is that it doesn't matter that much how good the equipment is on paper if you can't use it optimally in the field. If I were going to be be manning it I would not want a second piece of equipment I have to keep track of.
I would still say you need to find a buddy. It will make your life SO much easier.
It looks like you may be right on that. Though there does seem to be some audio level setting in some menu? I don't have one so??? But it may be possible to defeat the AGC. The other thing is that for run and gun AGC may not be that much of an issue. You would have to do some tests, but in a constantly fairly loud environment it might not pump too much.
Do you know what these devices actually are doing? I'm just curious. I wonder if there is a manual way to do this so you don't have to buy the device.PS - there are inexpensive devices made to suppress AGC in 7D by sending inaudible audio to one of the 2 channels. Unlike what their descriptions say, they don't and can't disable 7D's AGC. They merely trick 7D into not engaging AGC, which is both good and bad. You effectively lose every bit of help from AGC, and 7D will no long try to prevent you from getting clipped audio.
Do you know what these devices actually are doing? I'm just curious. I wonder if there is a manual way to do this so you don't have to buy the device.