Letus35 Extreme

I'm considering buying the EXTREME, my question is:

what rail system, follow focus, and matte box can I buy that will suite the EXTREME?

thanks,
Derrick
 
TimurCivan said:
and thats why i love my sgpro....

upside down and all, but it will still shoot pretty clean under harshest optical conditions.

but its huge and heavy too..... oh well cant have it all.
Click to expand...

No mention to the f-stop question, huh?

Maybe Barry can answer this one.

Do F-stops closer to f11 and such make your image better or worse with a 35mm? I know that Letus doesn't handle it right but with the sgpro I don't understand how it can make your image better. I guess I want to understand the physics of it.
Jgastelb
 
Shutter Speeds - Overcranking - Color Test Stills-

Shutter Speeds - Overcranking - Color Test Stills-

I am still processing the footage I shot yesterday and this morning, but for those of you who want to see the full res results of the shutter speed and overcranking tests that i shot, you can down load the zip file (30MB) here: http://www.235studios.com/Test02.zip

The Naming convention is as follows:
(Adapter name) - (Frame rate) - (HVX F Stop) - (Nikon 50mm F Stop) - (Internal ND Setting) - (Shutter Speed)

I have also included a DSC chart that I set up with a wave form & vector scope monitor. The file named meatball has the colors as close as i could get them to falling in place, and the file ending in REW are my current settings.

Scene file settings for the meatball are:
Detail level = +3
V Detail = 0
Detail Coring = +2
Chroma Level +7
Chroma Phase = 0
Color Temp = +2
Master Ped = -13
Gamma = B Press
Knee = Mid
Matrix = CineLike
Skin Detail = off

Scene file settings for my file are:
Detail level = +3
V Detail = 0
Detail Coring = +2
Chroma Level +2
Chroma Phase = 0
Color Temp = +2
Master Ped = -6
Gamma = B Press
Knee = Mid
Matrix = CineLike
Skin Detail = off

After looking at my footage, I think I would further adjust my scene file setting so that the detail level = 0 and detail coring = 0 as well.

As soon as I'm done processing the footage I'll post that as well. :)
 
jgastelb said:
No mention to the f-stop question, huh?


Jgastelb
Click to expand...
I´d also love to hear a bit about what f-stops you can push the Letus Extreme to. Since Ive been holding out on buying the Brevis , because I don´t want to have to shoot wide open all the time.
 
jgastelb said:
Do F-stops closer to f11 and such make your image better or worse with a 35mm? I know that Letus doesn't handle it right but with the sgpro I don't understand how it can make your image better. I guess I want to understand the physics of it.
Jgastelb
Click to expand...

The Reason the DVX100/HVX200 manuals were saying to keep your apetures open is that when the lenses get that small, diffraction becomes an issue. On 1/3"ccd, F16 is like an opening ~1mm wide. Essentially a pinhole camera. The wavelengths of light have trouble focusing through an openign that small.

On 35mm lenses, the opening of the lens, at F16 is much larger, so diffraction is less visible. Of course, a lens will not necessarily be optimal at F16, but that depends on the lens. My 55m F1.2 CANON FD SSC, is so soft at wide open it looks wrong, but at F16, its SCARY sharp. Out doors i shoot with that lens at around F8 to get a nice useable DOF while maintaining image clarity. Also, when a lens is wide open the film plane/GG/CCD is exposed to alot of errant light that bounces around uncontrolled inside the huge glass opening... (look at the size of the front element of my 55mm here www.go-35.com ) It makes the image milky, sort of like flashing the dark parts of film. Smaller apetures act like a "matte" box in the lens itslef, creating a smaller opening where the light comes through, cutting down errant light while maintaining color clarity, and contrast.
 
TimurCivan said:
The Reason the DVX100/HVX200 manuals were saying to keep your apetures open is that when the lenses get that small, diffraction becomes an issue. On 1/3"ccd, F16 is like an opening ~1mm wide. Essentially a pinhole camera. The wavelengths of light have trouble focusing through an openign that small.

On 35mm lenses, the opening of the lens, at F16 is much larger, so diffraction is less visible. Of course, a lens will not necessarily be optimal at F16, but that depends on the lens. My 55m F1.2 CANON FD SSC, is so soft at wide open it looks wrong, but at F16, its SCARY sharp. Out doors i shoot with that lens at around F8 to get a nice useable DOF while maintaining image clarity. Also, when a lens is wide open the film plane/GG/CCD is exposed to alot of errant light that bounces around uncontrolled inside the huge glass opening... (look at the size of the front element of my 55mm here www.go-35.com ) It makes the image milky, sort of like flashing the dark parts of film. Smaller apetures act like a "matte" box in the lens itslef, creating a smaller opening where the light comes through, cutting down errant light while maintaining color clarity, and contrast.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the explanation. It makes sense now. I really like the sharpness on those pics as well. The depth is a bit too shallow with the macro extension but that's the nature of macro shots.
Jgastelb
 
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TimurCivan said:
On 35mm lenses, the opening of the lens, at F16 is much larger, so diffraction is less visible. Of course, a lens will not necessarily be optimal at F16, but that depends on the lens. My 55m F1.2 CANON FD SSC, is so soft at wide open it looks wrong, but at F16, its SCARY sharp. Out doors i shoot with that lens at around F8 to get a nice useable DOF while maintaining image clarity.
Click to expand...

Maybe you can explain this though -- and sorry for the inquisition -- but, if you're shooting say at F8 on your 35mm lens then what are you having your native cam lens set to? The same? Putting both lenses at even F5.6 in a night indoor shot is a light killer.:kali: 2k means nothing now :shocked:
Jgastelb
 
well the beauty of the 35 adapter is that you can "Dial in" how muc DOF you wan and then adjust exposure with the HVX. so if im out doors, mid day, a few reflectors, im shooting F5.6-F8, and the hvx is probably with 1/8th ND on at wide open apeture, or 0 ND, and at like F5.6.

indoors, i stop down the 35mm lens first, then the HVX. when the hvx200 is zoomed in to Z71, which is what the SGpro needs to get its frame, the lens goes "open" at F2.0. so its pretty much already stopped down eough to be hitting its "sharpest" image. sure it will get a little sharper at F5.6, but the res loss at wide open, is like 5%... im not concerned with 5%.
 
so should I start the "Letus35 Extreme vs SGpro" thread now, or wait for the "Letus35 Extreme v-2" to be developed?
 
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Lenilenapi said:
videoamater,
Why do you need high speed shutter for your work? Is it for high speed shooting or is there something else - I'm just curious.
Click to expand...

In music videos and concerts(pop,rock...)everything moves pretty fast,if you choose low shutter speed then everything is going to look blury and slow.
With high shutter(120,250...)everything looks clear and stroby.High shutter means much more light,but better picture!
 
hi barry,i've pretty much made up my mind and will most likely order friday,but can you tell me how much better is the percieved image quality of the extreme over the flip if any at all?and if i take my nikon down to f8is grain visible?and last is the grain on the white wall isue resolved?thanks.
 
bwest said:
so should I start the "Letus35 Extreme vs SGpro" thread now, or wait for the "Letus35 Extreme v-2" to be developed?
Click to expand...

im not comparing them, im talking about the optics of lenses, its agnostic of what adapter you use.....
 
reem12 said:
but can you tell me how much better is the percieved image quality of the extreme over the flip if any at all?
Click to expand...
No, because I haven't tried them side-by-side. The main advantage for the Extreme is that it needs half as much light as the L35FE, and can withstand higher shutter speeds without showing grain.

and if i take my nikon down to f8is grain visible?
Click to expand...
Depends on your shutter speed. If you have a slow shutter speed (like 1/48) the grain won't be nearly as visible as if you have a high shutter speed (like 1/250).

and last is the grain on the white wall isue resolved?thanks.
Click to expand...
On any normal iris/shutter speed combo, yes. On extremely high shutter speeds combined with tiny irises, no. But that's likely to be a rather unusual/forced shooting combo. I'd say that for any shot you'd actually want to use, the whole visible-grain thing is *gone* with the Extreme.
 
TimurCivan said:
its agnostic of what adapter you use.....
Click to expand...
Sorry Tim, my comment wasn’t directed to you as much as it was directed towards having to buy another upgrade. I could buy a third adapter I suppose.
"Agnostic" though is not what I’m perceiving in this thread.
 
Thanks for the post Barry. I was typing up a response to the visible-grain question when my system decided to die on me. I guess now I don't have to since you covered everything.

To reiterate... with the new ground glass element going into these adapters, you won't see the grain like you would on previous models.
 
Is there any footage from the economy? How big a difference is there between it and the extreme in terms of the custom condensor?
 
My understanding is that the Economy is still in development and they do not have a working version yet....soon, but not right now.
 
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