lenses...starting from scratch.
- Thread starter boo
- Start date
cjwolff
Well-known member
Are YOU serious? 279$ for a Nikon to EOS adapter!? Theses things are worth about 20$
http://cgi.ebay.ca/Nikon-Lens-to-Ca...ash=item518c44de09&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1262
ydgmdlu
Veteran
Actually, they're worth less than $10. Under economies of scale, they're probably less than $1 apiece to manufacture.
Since the Sony A700 is an APS-C camera just like the 7D, you can use lenses with the same focal length that you've been using. Consider getting some manual focus lenses, if AF in still mode is not important to you (since the camera doesn't do AF in video mode anyway). You'll either want Canon EF or EF-S lenses, any Pentax manul lenses, Nikon AI or AI-S lenses, or Olympus manual lenses.
luke stewart
Active member
I'm confused. How is f1.4 a light gobbler?
EDIT: Oh, I get it, light gobbler as in passing more light through
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danny dale
Well-known member
just want to make sure about this... the Pentax K-mounts will work? I thought it was only the M42 screw mounts.
While we're on the subject, this is an interesting read:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flange_focal_distance
If the lens you want to use has a shorter focal flange distance than the one the camera expects, there's almost no chance that an adapter can be me to focus to infinity without using glass elements.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flange_focal_distance
If the lens you want to use has a shorter focal flange distance than the one the camera expects, there's almost no chance that an adapter can be me to focus to infinity without using glass elements.
I've been reading about 7D mount, this is what I found out so far.
Native lens series is EF-S, with it I will get autofocus and I suppose, metering. Listed here, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon_EF-S_lens_mount there are not many of them, and they are quite slow. The decent one 17-55mm f/2.8 costs about $1K, whoa! The EF-S 60mm f/2.8 costs about $400, more bearable, but still quite expensive.
EF series lenses can be used too, I will get all the same features, but have to take crop factor into consideration. There are many lenses available, but the prices are high too, for example the EF 16-35mm f/2.8L costs about $2K.
Non-EF or EF-S lenses can be mounted with a mechanical adapter. With it, I lose autofocus, I get that. what about metering? Wikipedia says: "With a manual connection, the aperture and focus controls of the lens cannot be controlled or read from the camera; the lens must be focused manually. Since the only possible metering is through-the-lens, the lens must be manually stopped down to accurately meter at anything less than full aperture. (This is called stop-down metering.)" I did not quite get this. Ok, I cannot set aperture using the buttons, I have to set it manually on the lens. But will the camera read this value and display it? If not, what will it display? Will it at least display the image on the LCD properly? Will zebras and whatever else, work?
Like the original poster, I would appreciate recommendations of say 3-4 lenses, not overly expensive. I would like having one moderately fast zoom lens, and several inexpensive primes. I can live with manual focus if I can reliably set if from the camera, I can live with manual aperture if I can read it from the camera or at least judge by an image.
Native lens series is EF-S, with it I will get autofocus and I suppose, metering. Listed here, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon_EF-S_lens_mount there are not many of them, and they are quite slow. The decent one 17-55mm f/2.8 costs about $1K, whoa! The EF-S 60mm f/2.8 costs about $400, more bearable, but still quite expensive.
EF series lenses can be used too, I will get all the same features, but have to take crop factor into consideration. There are many lenses available, but the prices are high too, for example the EF 16-35mm f/2.8L costs about $2K.
Non-EF or EF-S lenses can be mounted with a mechanical adapter. With it, I lose autofocus, I get that. what about metering? Wikipedia says: "With a manual connection, the aperture and focus controls of the lens cannot be controlled or read from the camera; the lens must be focused manually. Since the only possible metering is through-the-lens, the lens must be manually stopped down to accurately meter at anything less than full aperture. (This is called stop-down metering.)" I did not quite get this. Ok, I cannot set aperture using the buttons, I have to set it manually on the lens. But will the camera read this value and display it? If not, what will it display? Will it at least display the image on the LCD properly? Will zebras and whatever else, work?
Like the original poster, I would appreciate recommendations of say 3-4 lenses, not overly expensive. I would like having one moderately fast zoom lens, and several inexpensive primes. I can live with manual focus if I can reliably set if from the camera, I can live with manual aperture if I can read it from the camera or at least judge by an image.
FatDaddy
Veteran
A little thread going on at cinema5d about lenses: http://www.cinema5d.com/viewtopic.php?f=64&t=4940
When I started into SLR photography I was overwhelmed by the variety present in the EOS lenses line up. It can get pretty confusing.
However your lense (tool) choice all depends on your goals and what you want to get out of it.
It also depends on the conditions you will shoot through (low light, studio lighting etc).
There's also the investment factor: you might think a $500 lens is a good investment but consider the amount of perfectionism that goes into a high end lens (with top grade glass/coatings) and the fact that you will be tempted to get the high end lens anyway, that $500 will turn into a loss (of few $$ at least, to the whole $500 if you never use that cheap lens afterall - yes you will see a $500 lens cheap (not that it's bad).
Generally speaking Canon lenses can be divided into 3 groups: entry level, mid level, and pro (similar to their SLR cameras offerings). That's not to say that an entry level setup can not produce good quality photos/videos comparable to the higher end setup. The fact remains that a high end setup can go a long way in getting your produce good quality work: for example better focus mechanism for getting more images that are usable - sharpness wise, or a fast prime with exceptional distortion, vignetting, CA control that lead to less work in post.
Now for your question, there is a slight separation between two schools of thought: get a bagful of fast primes (1.4 or 1.2) versus a couple of good fastish (f2.8) zoom lenses.
On average most Canon fast primes are sharper than any zoom at the wide end opening of the zoom. But this is only one factor to consider.
You might find yourself thinking at some stage that you will need a full frame to make use of the EF24mm 1.4L II or the 14mm 2.8 II, great wide lenses (on FF at least). So for an APS-C camera it's hard to recommend it because you won't be benefiting as much from these lenses (my personal view).
I would encourage you to get a fast prime, the early suggestion 50mm 1.4 is a good one.
To start the ball rolling, I'd suggest, once you get the 7d with the basic lens, experiment and find your optimum zoom range, and % of of clicks you take wide open; you will be able to determine the best lens you should invest in.
Hope this helps.
However your lense (tool) choice all depends on your goals and what you want to get out of it.
It also depends on the conditions you will shoot through (low light, studio lighting etc).
There's also the investment factor: you might think a $500 lens is a good investment but consider the amount of perfectionism that goes into a high end lens (with top grade glass/coatings) and the fact that you will be tempted to get the high end lens anyway, that $500 will turn into a loss (of few $$ at least, to the whole $500 if you never use that cheap lens afterall - yes you will see a $500 lens cheap (not that it's bad).
Generally speaking Canon lenses can be divided into 3 groups: entry level, mid level, and pro (similar to their SLR cameras offerings). That's not to say that an entry level setup can not produce good quality photos/videos comparable to the higher end setup. The fact remains that a high end setup can go a long way in getting your produce good quality work: for example better focus mechanism for getting more images that are usable - sharpness wise, or a fast prime with exceptional distortion, vignetting, CA control that lead to less work in post.
Now for your question, there is a slight separation between two schools of thought: get a bagful of fast primes (1.4 or 1.2) versus a couple of good fastish (f2.8) zoom lenses.
On average most Canon fast primes are sharper than any zoom at the wide end opening of the zoom. But this is only one factor to consider.
You might find yourself thinking at some stage that you will need a full frame to make use of the EF24mm 1.4L II or the 14mm 2.8 II, great wide lenses (on FF at least). So for an APS-C camera it's hard to recommend it because you won't be benefiting as much from these lenses (my personal view).
I would encourage you to get a fast prime, the early suggestion 50mm 1.4 is a good one.
To start the ball rolling, I'd suggest, once you get the 7d with the basic lens, experiment and find your optimum zoom range, and % of of clicks you take wide open; you will be able to determine the best lens you should invest in.
Hope this helps.
Zim
Veteran
serious about getting the D300s? Yes I might get it. Some of the footage looks really good. Maybe better the 7D.
Mr. Japetto
Member
My Lenses - The Super Taks feel good.
Lenses:
Super-Takumar 1:1.4/50mm
Yashica auto Yashinon-ds 1:1.9/50mm
Super-Takumar 1:1.8/50mm
Super-Takumar 1:3.5/28mm
Yashica auto Yashinon-ds 1:1.9/50mm
Yashica auto Yashinon 1:2.0/50mm
Yashica auto Yashinon 1:3.5/200mm
Soligor 1:4.5/90-230mm – In Case
Soligor 1:3.5/135mm
Tamron 1:2.8/28mm – In Case
Tamron Auto zoom 1:3.8/80-250mm – In Case
Pentacon auto 1:2.8/135mm
Hanimex automatic 1:3.5/200mm – In Case
Sigma Telemax 1:2.8/135mm
Marinda mc macro 1:2.8/28mm
Cunor Telephoto 1:6.3/400mm – In Case
Sun Auto zoom 1:4.5/85-210mm – In Case
++ others
Heres a link to the pic:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/42168267@N04/3888717882/
I got all shown in the picture, (except one of the cameras, the furniture, walls & floor) I'm so happy!!!!! I tried to swim in them when
they arrived, and I threw out my back, so I'll have no more attempts at that activity. Now for a Tokina 10-17mm Fisheye & Tokina 11-16mm f2.8
and I'm Sorted - I think
With lenses, that is.
Lenses:
Super-Takumar 1:1.4/50mm
Yashica auto Yashinon-ds 1:1.9/50mm
Super-Takumar 1:1.8/50mm
Super-Takumar 1:3.5/28mm
Yashica auto Yashinon-ds 1:1.9/50mm
Yashica auto Yashinon 1:2.0/50mm
Yashica auto Yashinon 1:3.5/200mm
Soligor 1:4.5/90-230mm – In Case
Soligor 1:3.5/135mm
Tamron 1:2.8/28mm – In Case
Tamron Auto zoom 1:3.8/80-250mm – In Case
Pentacon auto 1:2.8/135mm
Hanimex automatic 1:3.5/200mm – In Case
Sigma Telemax 1:2.8/135mm
Marinda mc macro 1:2.8/28mm
Cunor Telephoto 1:6.3/400mm – In Case
Sun Auto zoom 1:4.5/85-210mm – In Case
++ others
Heres a link to the pic:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/42168267@N04/3888717882/
I got all shown in the picture, (except one of the cameras, the furniture, walls & floor) I'm so happy!!!!! I tried to swim in them when
they arrived, and I threw out my back, so I'll have no more attempts at that activity. Now for a Tokina 10-17mm Fisheye & Tokina 11-16mm f2.8
and I'm Sorted - I think
With lenses, that is.
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ok, been doing some research...seems like a no brainer to get the kit lens...only $200 more vs. $250 purchased seperately(besides, i need to take shots of the kids at Disneyland ya know )
for wide, it seems the 3 most recommended is the canon 10-22mm 3.5-4.5, the tokina 11-16 f/2.8, and the sigma 10-20mm f/3.5
for fisheye, the new sigma 10mm fisheye HSM w/ constant 2.8 aperture.
http://www.amazon.com/Sigma-Fisheye-Canon-Digital-Cameras/dp/B000YYDF7W
with a many of my shots being on a crane and steadycam type device(approx max 3lbs camera weight) i'll be mainly using a wide angle and for specific shots, the fisheye. w/ the tokina 11-16mm weighing 1.8lbs and the sigma 10mm fisheye at .08 lbs and the canon 7D 1.8lbs, that'll get me to the approx max weight of the steadycam device. would like to see a comparison between the tokina and the canon 10-22mm and the sigma 10-20mm...ok...just thinking out loud here....
)for wide, it seems the 3 most recommended is the canon 10-22mm 3.5-4.5, the tokina 11-16 f/2.8, and the sigma 10-20mm f/3.5
for fisheye, the new sigma 10mm fisheye HSM w/ constant 2.8 aperture.
http://www.amazon.com/Sigma-Fisheye-Canon-Digital-Cameras/dp/B000YYDF7W
with a many of my shots being on a crane and steadycam type device(approx max 3lbs camera weight) i'll be mainly using a wide angle and for specific shots, the fisheye. w/ the tokina 11-16mm weighing 1.8lbs and the sigma 10mm fisheye at .08 lbs and the canon 7D 1.8lbs, that'll get me to the approx max weight of the steadycam device. would like to see a comparison between the tokina and the canon 10-22mm and the sigma 10-20mm...ok...just thinking out loud here....
DanDOF
Well-known member
mhood, as i understand the term 'fixed aperture' or 'constant aperture' only applies to zoom lenses. It just means that when you zoom from wide to telephoto the aperture stays the same (which is desirable for video). It seems most zoom lenses have variable apertures which are forced to tighten and get darker as you zoom. Those types of lenses will be named to express this limitation, for example f/4-5.6 for a variable aperture zoom lens vs just f/4.
I hope that explains what you were asking.