Hague Mini Motion Cam

Psynema

Psynema

Well-known member
Just got one from Ebay (seller b-hague) took only 2 days to ship from UK to Philadelphia.

Recommend!!!

I have the 20mm 1.7 on it and so far looks as smooth as you can ask from a $100 steadicam - and certainly this is 1000000000x better than the modosteady. It's not as rock steady as the glidecam, but I don't mean that as a complaint, as it's not jittery at all and WAY MORE MOBILE AND EASIER on the arm than the glidecam. I had it balanced not even in 2 minutes.

Lot of people have a hard time finding US dealers, so just hit up ebay - you'll get it quick so don't be afraid of the exchange rate.

I'll post footage up soon as I 'll be using it for a short doc this weekend. Now I can't wait for the 14mm pancake.

But for those worried 20mm without OIS would be a problem so far it seems fine, of course the damn autofocus is another story LOL.
 
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cool - are you happier with it over the glidecam? I have a glidecam and haven't been really pleased with it. It's too straining on the forearm and a pain to balance.
 
cowpunk52 said:
cool - are you happier with it over the glidecam? I have a glidecam and haven't been really pleased with it. It's too straining on the forearm and a pain to balance.
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Glidecam is better but more tiring...Hague I like having more range of motion over closer objects - but when the subject is farther out, glidecam is best.
But I honestly love having the Hague so it's a toss up - sure the glidecam may provide more reliability, but I'd rather use the Hague for the portability and free-er range of motion.
 
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Do you think the Mini Hague would work ok with the GH1 when using the stock 14-140 lens assuming, that once balanced, you didn't change the zoom setting? Also, what is the longest lens you would use with the Mini?
 
Lindenberg said:
Do you think the Mini Hague would work ok with the GH1 when using the stock 14-140 lens assuming, that once balanced, you didn't change the zoom setting? Also, what is the longest lens you would use with the Mini?
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Just the 20mm so far, don't have the kit lens, but have seen videos on vimeo where people successfully balanced the kit lens.
 
I have one too.

I like it, didn't have time to play a lot with it, but its great from a few tests I made.

The only complain I have is that shipment is very very very expensive (almost as the product itself) without a good reason, they can send it with EMS or insurances USPS without a problem.
 
Psynema, thanks for posting...i'm almost ready to purchase one. I notice you're always releastic in your critiques of products, so i will be trying the hague soon!
 
skinny! said:
Psynema, thanks for posting...i'm almost ready to purchase one. I notice you're always releastic in your critiques of products, so i will be trying the hague soon!
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It's a safe bet BUT BUT BUT - I do INSIST you order the correction plate which is an extra accessory. The GH1 is too right heavy for this thing and while you can balance it as is, it's best to have any camera CENTERED AS MUCH AS YOU CAN on this thing.

Ideally I don't know why they didn't design it with weights on both sides of a two way bar instead of one pendulum that goes in a single direction, but oh well. My one complaint, as cheap and effective as the Hague is, I don't think it would make it cost that much more if they just put a two sided weight bar on the bottom.
 
Absolutely no offence to you, Psynema, but for some reason I can't stop reading your handle as "psy-enema" :smile:
 
Shot in a dark film meeting last night - only have the 20mm 1.7 and autofocus was an issue, so I tried locking the focus, which also was an issue since the DOF was too shallow. Need a wider lens that's fast with OIS or c-AF...I do hope that 14mm 2.8 has c-af. It would help with the steadicam work.

Not sure why it's 2.8 14mm when OLY has a ZOOM lens that's f2 for four thirds. Even if Panasonic had to charge $1000 for it, after using the hague, I really want a wide angle lens that's fast as can be.

14mm F2 c-AF prime for 2011 PANNY :violin:

Note - not complaining as the 20mm 1.7 is still usefull for steadicam work, but in dark places which mean shallow DOF wide open, it's probably too telephoto for it's limited video focusing ability. Outside shouldn't be a problem and I have a small shoot tonight that's outdoors.
 
Psynema said:
It's a safe bet BUT BUT BUT - I do INSIST you order the correction plate which is an extra accessory. The GH1 is too right heavy for this thing and while you can balance it as is, it's best to have any camera CENTERED AS MUCH AS YOU CAN on this thing.

Ideally I don't know why they didn't design it with weights on both sides of a two way bar instead of one pendulum that goes in a single direction, but oh well. My one complaint, as cheap and effective as the Hague is, I don't think it would make it cost that much more if they just put a two sided weight bar on the bottom.
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Do you mean this plate?

http://www.cameragrip.co.uk/acatalog/hague_balance_correction_plate.html

Do you have it, and dose it help?

Cause I am balancing the camera using by putting the balance to the left (in the lower elbow of the device), but I will order this item if its help

Thanks.
 
adys said:
Do you mean this plate?

http://www.cameragrip.co.uk/acatalog/hague_balance_correction_plate.html

Do you have it, and dose it help?

Cause I am balancing the camera using by putting the balance to the left (in the lower elbow of the device), but I will order this item if its help

Thanks.
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This one

http://www.cameragrip.co.uk/acatalog/Stabibilizers___Steadycams.html#a354

This one is thinner, the one you linked to would work, but would be too wide IMO - you don't want stuff expanding out too far on such a small and lightweight stabilizer. It sure is a good device to have, but I'm doing my best to work around the limitations - try to center it NATURALLY as best you can and that'll produce better results. I'm about to order this myself.

I've used the glidecam before so I'm familiar with the basic physics and can say this about the Hague: having the bottom baseplate one way and not two way is a mistake on their part IMO - sure it'll work, but having weight leaning on the bottom to the left to compensate for the right heavy camera is going to adversely affect rotating and doing 360s. Using the correction plate to get the camera dead center and the base plate as Straight as you can will help curving shots.

I'm also eventually going to track down a piece of scrap metal or an erector set part to see if I can fashion a two sided base.
 
Thanks.

I am not sure the plate you gave the link for -
http://www.cameragrip.co.uk/acatalog/info_354.html
Will do the balance.

The GH1 is much heavier on the right side, I am not sure this little offset will do the trick.
I thought you have it, but if you don't, I am not sure I would have order this one.

I think that this one is the right one
http://www.cameragrip.co.uk/acatalog/hague_balance_correction_plate.html

Its only 38 mm and it will sit under the camera, and this camera needs a serious left side offset to be balanced.

I have sent them a message, in the worst case I will order both.
 
adys said:
Thanks.

I am not sure the plate you gave the link for -
http://www.cameragrip.co.uk/acatalog/info_354.html
Will do the balance.

The GH1 is much heavier on the right side, I am not sure this little offset will do the trick.
I thought you have it, but if you don't, I am not sure I would have order this one.

I think that this one is the right one
http://www.cameragrip.co.uk/acatalog/hague_balance_correction_plate.html

Its only 38 mm and it will sit under the camera, and this camera needs a serious left side offset to be balanced.

I have sent them a message, in the worst case I will order both.
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It depends on what lens you use - The center of balance on a GH1 with a 20mm 1.7 seems to be not even a half inch away from the hole. The plate you linked to is for FRONT/BACK balance if you read the description, not left and right, BUT BUT BUT - if you're using the kit lens, that plate may come in handy.

Also this is by no means a great sample and can't really use this shot, but here's something I got on day one- AUTOFOCUS on the 20mm ruins this pretty much. It's a bit rickety, but nothing practice, a wider lens, and a base plate won't cure.

 
Thanks for the info.

I don't have trouble with the front back balance, it ok.

I have side balance problem, and from what I saw in the sample, you have it too, its effect the way we walk with the camera...

Again, I don't see how a small offset like the MMCP correction plate will help to balance the camera (side balance)
 
adys said:
Thanks for the info.

I don't have trouble with the front back balance, it ok.

I have side balance problem, and from what I saw in the sample, you have it too, its effect the way we walk with the camera...

Again, I don't see how a small offset like the MMCP correction plate will help to balance the camera (side balance)
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I Balanced the gh1 on my finger and it wasn't that far from the hole so the plate should help. I'm aiming to have the bottom weight straight back, then get a 14mm lens. But the 20mm without OIS, autofocus, is good for shorter/straighter bursts.
 
It is pretty much impossible to do steadicam work fully open, I doubt a wider lens would make that any easier at f1.7. One thing you might want to do to help the auto-focus is to shoot in 60p - it gets more focus information that way and will focus faster and search less.

Usualy I don't shoot steadicam stuff below f4
 
andrzejkra said:
It is pretty much impossible to do steadicam work fully open, I doubt a wider lens would make that any easier at f1.7. One thing you might want to do to help the auto-focus is to shoot in 60p - it gets more focus information that way and will focus faster and search less.

Usualy I don't shoot steadicam stuff below f4
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Me either, but sometimes you get desperate and just cross fingers. Supposedly a WA adapter on the 20mm according to one poster here gave him quicker autofocus and mainly I'd like the WA option just to smooth out the bumps better.

One thing that helped autofocus which I'm stupid for not thinking of before since I'm used to manual was to set it the autofocus to point mode and move the point to the upper right third of the frame. Then just track that point and make sure someone's head is always aligned.
 
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