7D Guide Me Please !

C

Cinema-E

Active member
Hi everyone ,

Well, I have two stupid questions I looked but couldn’t get a simple answer .

I am shooting a movie I have the 7d + PMD 661 , this is my first time shooting video separate from audio , so

Q1: I heard about audio sync , do I need to sync audio with video ?! and how?.

Q2: my movie will be under the sun light most of the scenes, my Q is
We have Aperture , shutter speed and the iso how should I deal with them ,
Should I get an ND filter to Keep the aperture wide open and slow the shutter speed to
get a better DOF and a smooth footage with 50 mm 1.8 II and the kit lens 18 -113 mm for wide shots ?.
(I have some action shots , how necessary it is to speed up the shutter speed with action scenes? ) .
 
Q1: Either the old fashion way; manually moving the tracks. Or you can purchase pluraleyes.

Q2: You'll probably want to keep shutter speed constant using the 180 degree rule. That is, keep it 1/(double the frame rate). So shooting 24p, keep the shutter speed at 1/50 because there is no setting for 1/48. If you want that shallow depth of field, then you might want to get an ND filter so you can keep the aperture open. All depends on what look you want. There are some exceptions with the 180 degree shutter speed rule, but majority of the time you'll use the rule unless you're going for the staccato effect
 
Ren Tachino said:
Q1: Either the old fashion way; manually moving the tracks. Or you can purchase pluraleyes.

Q2: You'll probably want to keep shutter speed constant using the 180 degree rule. That is, keep it 1/(double the frame rate). So shooting 24p, keep the shutter speed at 1/50 because there is no setting for 1/48. If you want that shallow depth of field, then you might want to get an ND filter so you can keep the aperture open. All depends on what look you want. There are some exceptions with the 180 degree shutter speed rule, but majority of the time you'll use the rule unless you're going for the staccato effect
Click to expand...

I see , this is a very good info

thanx alot
 
So a question I have regarding shutter speed: When shooting indoors with natural lights, I read something about keeping the shutter speed consistent with the frequency of the lights--in PAL land 1/50th of a second, and in NTSC land 1/60th of a second. Little help? :)
 
I think the rule replies regardless of whether you're inside or outside. if you're shooting 1080/30 keep your shutter at 1/60th.... unless you're wanting to slow-mo some 60p footage.
 
Q1: I heard about audio sync , do I need to sync audio with video ?! and how?.

Get a clap board and shoot it at the beginning of each take, make sure the mic is close to the clapper when you snap it. Then you can line up the clap audio with the picture in the editor and tweak from there.
Q2: my movie will be under the sun light most of the scenes, my Q is
We have Aperture , shutter speed and the iso how should I deal with them ,
Should I get an ND filter to Keep the aperture wide open and slow the shutter speed to
get a better DOF and a smooth footage with 50 mm 1.8 II and the kit lens 18 -113 mm for wide shots ?.

Try to keep the iso at 160 or 320. If you want to limit depth of field shoot with the apeture wide open but stop down a half or 1 stop if you use the 1.8, unless you need to be wide open because of lack of light. Having ND will help if you want to limit DOF in the sunlight.

Your shutter speed should be 1/60th if NTSC and if Pal use 1/50th.

(I have some action shots , how necessary it is to speed up the shutter speed with action scenes? )

You can leave the shutter speed alone unless you want the picture to be a bit staccato, if you use a higher shutter speed it makes the picture feel a little nervous. So if you are going for an un-easy feel that will do it. Think Saving Private Ryan battle scenes.
 
Timbit said:
So a question I have regarding shutter speed: When shooting indoors with natural lights, I read something about keeping the shutter speed consistent with the frequency of the lights--in PAL land 1/50th of a second, and in NTSC land 1/60th of a second. Little help? :)
Click to expand...

I am shooting 1080P 24fps and we are in PAL land ?!
 
dangerd said:
Get a clap board and shoot it at the beginning of each take, make sure the mic is close to the clapper when you snap it. Then you can line up the clap audio with the picture in the editor and tweak from there.

get a better DOF and a smooth footage with 50 mm 1.8 II and the kit lens 18 -113 mm for wide shots ?. [/B]

Try to keep the iso at 160 or 320. If you want to limit depth of field shoot with the apeture wide open but stop down a half or 1 stop if you use the 1.8, unless you need to be wide open because of lack of light. Having ND will help if you want to limit DOF in the sunlight.

Your shutter speed should be 1/60th if NTSC and if Pal use 1/50th.


You can leave the shutter speed alone unless you want the picture to be a bit staccato, if you use a higher shutter speed it makes the picture feel a little nervous. So if you are going for an un-easy feel that will do it. Think Saving Private Ryan battle scenes.
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Click to expand...

clap board is a good idea, I think an instant and sharp sound will make the sync much easier .

regarding the ISO , what makes the footage so noisy especially in low light situations , the iso increase alone?! What are the limits or the minimum low light iso number in case of the 50mm 1.8 if the aperture wide, shutter at 1/50th.
I mean if I want to get a low light looking footage without any noise I just increase the light on the scene and decrease the iso to the lower possible number, does it work like this ?.
By the way why do they put high iso levels ?! , or when will I use high iso numbers ?.

"but stop down a half or 1 stop if you use the 1.8,"
You mean at 2.2 or 2.8?
 
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The higher the ISO you select the more digital noise will appear in your image, that is why the others posted advice about low iso's.
Think of it as the same as the GAIN on your old camcorder.

The idea with shooting 180 degree shutter is ...
24 frames per second (usa) you want shutter 1/48 but it isn't an option so select 1/50
25 frames per second (europe) you want shutter 1/50
30 frames per second (tv land) you want shutter 1/60
60 frames per second you want shutter 1/120
in each of these scenarios for each frame there is now an equivalent amount of time for when the sensor is exposed and when it is hidden. ie 180 degree shutter
this gives the most natural looking motion blur.
Similarly a 90 degree shutter angle would be shooting 24 frames per second with a shutter of 1/96 (closest option on a canon is 1/100) and this would be decreased motion blur with
sharp looking images and a staccato feel - good for tense fight scenes

When to be careful of 180 degree shutter is when your shutter speed syncs with any flicker in surrounding lighting. For example the US power supply oscillates at 50 hz so street lights ...
the crappy fluro tube light in the office hallway ... etc, they all flicker at 50hz which is in sync with a shutter of 1/50 so you will get strange moving bands in your image.
Fluro's, HMI's and lighting made for filming are all made with flicker free ballasts so you are ok with them. They are also high CRI lights.
I was just posting about this on Vitaliys thread. When it comes to lighting (and tripods) you get what you pay for, don't got cheap, get the correct ones from the start.
If you absolutely must shoot near a flickering light, eg a night time street scene near street lights move your shutter speed to 1/60 for that scene to prevent the bands screwing up your image.

edit:
sorry, correction, I got it backwards. US power is at 60hz and you want your shutter at 1/60 so that it is in-sync otherwise when it is at 1/50 (slightly out of sync) you get the rolling bands
 
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