GH3 GH3 arrives in USA

I got mine off e-bay for a $100 premium. Would have paid more than that in sales tax. Ordered on thurs and get it on Monday.

Bern, Erik... FOOTYYYYYYYYYYY! Let's see some FOOOOOTTTTTYYYYYY!

Haha. What you dont like the camera porn I posted? Today is shot. Have an event I need to get ready for. My wife is already calling me with a list of stuff I have to get done. Grrrr. Love you honey!!!
Tomorrow I'm going out to shoot and post. Shame because we have some nice fluffy clouds today. Great for testing the time lapse feature.
 
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I got mine on 11/30 after preordering from Amazon on 9/17. I probably got the first GH3 in Hawaii.

I have the GH2 and like the control layout of the GH3 much more. The OLED screen display is far better. There is hardly any difference in the weight and the size doesn't seem to be much bigger. I like the bigger handgrip. I really like that the on/off switch has more resistance. I have accidentally turned my GH2 on while putting it in my camera case several times.

The All-I (72 mbps) MOV worked with my San Disk Extreme 45 mbps 32GB SDHC and San Disk Ultra 30 mbps 32 SDHC cards. I tested with only a 10 second shot of a tree with leaves with zooming in and out. I put the clip in Adobe Premiere Pro CS6 and it worked OK, although I didn't know what preset to use. I used Digital SLR DSLR 1080p30. I don't know if PP used my preset or automatically converted my clip.

I am disappointed with the remote app. The manual says "Motion pictures are recorded by timer recording. Set the recording time in advance. You cannot stop motion picture recording halfway from a smartphone/tablet. To stop recording, operate the camera." I can't figure out how to set the timer recording. I was assuming that you could turn/off the video recording remotely. Also, I am using an Apple iPod and cannot use a direct connection to the camera and have to use my home network. Manual says "To connect to this unit with [Wi-Fi Direct], Android OS 4.0 or above is required." My Lumix Link is erratic in getting a good connection over the network to my camera although I am right next to my wireless router. It is hard to get remote on/off to operate. You have to press the camera logo on the right of the screen and it is hard to get it bright, showing it is active.
 
I got mine on 11/30 after preordering from Amazon on 9/17. I probably got the first GH3 in Hawaii.

I have the GH2 and like the control layout of the GH3 much more. The OLED screen display is far better. There is hardly any difference in the weight and the size doesn't seem to be much bigger. I like the bigger handgrip. I really like that the on/off switch has more resistance. I have accidentally turned my GH2 on while putting it in my camera case several times.

The All-I (72 mbps) MOV worked with my San Disk Extreme 45 mbps 32GB SDHC and San Disk Ultra 30 mbps 32 SDHC cards. I tested with only a 10 second shot of a tree with leaves with zooming in and out. I put the clip in Adobe Premiere Pro CS6 and it worked OK, although I didn't know what preset to use. I used Digital SLR DSLR 1080p30. I don't know if PP used my preset or automatically converted my clip.

I am disappointed with the remote app. The manual says "Motion pictures are recorded by timer recording. Set the recording time in advance. You cannot stop motion picture recording halfway from a smartphone/tablet. To stop recording, operate the camera." I can't figure out how to set the timer recording. I was assuming that you could turn/off the video recording remotely. Also, I am using an Apple iPod and cannot use a direct connection to the camera and have to use my home network. Manual says "To connect to this unit with [Wi-Fi Direct], Android OS 4.0 or above is required." My Lumix Link is erratic in getting a good connection over the network to my camera although I am right next to my wireless router. It is hard to get remote on/off to operate. You have to press the camera logo on the right of the screen and it is hard to get it bright, showing it is active.
ive gotten to make it work for pictures though i think the app update will work with video?
you don't connect to the same network, rather you connect to the camera itself
 
I'd give it time man- I'm sure they'll iron out the wi-fi/remote app issues in updates. Once it gets worked out and upgraded to do more things I'm sure the wireless control will be one of the best features of the camera :)

(I'd like to see the entire menu set controllable via an external device-- as in every setting, screen, and function. FULL remote control will be amazing!)
 
I tested the zoom on the Lumix 12-35 on the GH3 to see if it would still flicker and it does. Bummer. The Lumix 35-100 doesn't have this issue with iris flicker but the focus goes soft while zooming. It's kind like a focus flicker. What up? Anyway I'm not big on zooming so I can live with it but it would be nice if you could do a super slow push or pull without it affecting the image and you can but you need to time it perfectly.
 
Might as well post this in here with all the other new owners.

I know this is something I should be able to figure out on my own, but I'm baffled. I'm coming over from Canon and the way this GH3 system works is throwing me a little. There's the Af/AE focus button, and I think I generally understand how it works but despite enabling "AF+MF" in the settings menu, I can only ever manually focus my lens when the AF/AE lock dial is set to MF. I'm using the Panasonic 12-35 lens. I'm just looking to be able to use the autofocus and then make fine adjustments afterwards if needed.

So far I really love the camera but the lack of auto ISO in full manual mode is a real mystery.
 
The GH2 could do it, but I'm baffled why this is even an issue.

Why it's an issue that the GH3 can't, or why it's something someone would want?

My inability to get the AF+MF working is my bigger concern right now. Can't figure out what setting I have wrong.
 
On the GH2 the AF + MF works like this: Autofocus and hold the shutter release at "half press" then "touch up" the focus manually with the focus ring (if needed). I assume it should work the same way on the GH3.

On my GH2s merely touching the focus ring while still holding the shutter button at "half press" seems to be enough movement to cause the magnified view to "kick in".
 
On the GH2 the AF + MF works like this: Autofocus and hold the shutter release at "half press" then "touch up" the focus manually with the focus ring (if needed). I assume it should work the same way on the GH3.

On my GH2s merely touching the focus ring while still holding the shutter button at "half press" seems to be enough movement to cause the magnified view to "kick in".

That did the trick. Thank you. As long as the Auto Focus is set to AFS (and not AFF or AFC) it will allow you to manually focus while the shutter is still half-pressed.

Not quite what I was hoping for but glad to know how it works.
 
I "came over" from Canon so I understand what you're going through. The GH2 menu system "led me around by the nose" for most of a week before I started "getting it".

Glad I did though.
 
well gotta be honest. as much as i love my gh2, its controls and menu are so unintuitive. i can say that to canon dslrs as well. so far no manufacturer has gotten "it" right.
 
It's not that I find the controls unintuitive, it's just a change from what I am used to. In fact with all the custom function buttons I'm actually more easily able to access to features I want compared to my 60D. Maybe it was a feature on the GH2 as well but being able to completely customize the Q.Menu is great.

Built in time lapse is superb, just what I was looking for, and I love that you can use it with the electronic shutter. The autofocus is shockingly quick.

Only a few real complaints so far. The EVF smearing when in the menu system is unfortunate, but manageable. I've already lamented the lack of auto ISO when shooting full manual for video. The placement of the headphone jack is also a shame, if it was just more towards the front of the body it wouldn't hinder the display so much when flipped out (same goes for the HDMI port).

That aside, after only one day with it I'm very pleased.
 
When you're shooting "full manual" why do you want an automatic ISO feature? Just curious. To me the reason I shoot full manual is to control everything and ensure my exposure is what I'm after. If the camera jacked around with the ISO value to make it "work" (but not giving me what I wanted) I'd be pissed because that would ruin a lot of shots.
 
When you're shooting "full manual" why do you want an automatic ISO feature? Just curious. To me the reason I shoot full manual is to control everything and ensure my exposure is what I'm after. If the camera jacked around with the ISO value to make it "work" (but not giving me what I wanted) I'd be pissed because that would ruin a lot of shots.

+1
 
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