GH2 GH2 W/14-42mm Lens OR GH2 W/O Lens

J

Justin Richardson

Member
Quick question guys,

I've been filming with a Panasonic AG HMC 40 but i'm ready to step into the dslr game, been doing some homework on which one to get since i'm solely relying on the video aspect of the camera. I'm leaning towards the panasonic GH2, only thing is, what lens should I get? I pretty much film club events and parties/people dancing all the time, sometimes i'm in tight areas but i'll make room so I can get good footage, so with those factors what would you guys recommend also i'll have a led light attached to the camera.


 
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I would get a fast lens, since clubs and such are dark.

I would get the GH2 body, however much it costs, and separately buy the Olympus 14-54 f/2.8-3.5 for $599, it is a 4/3rds lens, so will require an adapter, all the reviews I have read say it is an awesome lens. The DMW-MA1 adapter is only an extra $100 or so.

Then you can save up to get the $2300 Olympus 14-35mm f/2.0!!
 
You will find a f3.5 to f5.6 lens not much brighter then the HMC40. I have both cameras and the HMC40 is killer in bright light but suffers massive head trama in dark environments. The same is true of the slow kit lens although it is a bit better. The nice thing about the GH2 is the higher ISO's are lightyears cleaner looking then using high gain on the hmc40. Even my GH1 at ISO1600 looks cleaner then then the hmc40 at 24db and the GH2 is even better. If it wasn't for the fixed pattern noise on the GH1 at ISO1600 I would say it was usable but I tend to not go over ISO640 or ISO800.

If you can live without a zoom lens I would consider some fast primes. A DSLR really shines when you give it a f1.8 or faster lens. You will freak seeing how much brighter it is then the hmc40.
 
Justin - you can get the GH2 with the 14-42 cheaper than body only in many places, especially at Unique Photo. You can sell the lens and reduce the cost of your body even more.

I agree with atarijedi on the fast 4/3 zooms. I have the Olympus 11-22 f2.8-3.5 and an old Sigma 18-50 f2.8.

But for ultimate low light performance, you'll want a prime. People swear by the Voigtlander Nokton 25mm f0.95 - a very expensive manual lens, but worth the money for some low light shooters. Here is what it looks like in an indoor situation similar to what you'll be shooting: https://vimeo.com/21195705

In my view, any quality lens works well with this camera to produce awesome stills and video.

Good luck with your decision,

Bill
 
I want to be able to catch as much people as possible and be able to film from head to at least their thighs while filming, do the lens i've been reading here do that and do they have OIS?
 
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Dont forget the Voigtlander Nokton 25mm f0.95 is 50mm in real terms so not that wide,there is the Pana pancake 14mm f 2.5 and 20mm f 1.7 . 28 and 40 35 mm equivalent_ they are cheap lenses to buy.
 
spamrakuen said:
There is no such thing. (Re: OIS on fast primes)

If you want fast glass; fixed primes without OIS (great and no expensive ones are; Pana 14mm f2.5 and 20mm f1.7, and Oly 45mm f1.8).
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I have all three of these and they will do what the OP wants just about better than anything else. For him in clubs the Oly 45 will have him backing off a bit but that f1.8 and the optical performance is great.

He will likely get the most use out of the Lumix 14mm f2.5 and the Lumix 20mm f1.7. Where the light is really minimal the 20mm will be the "weapon of choice", but the 14mm f2.5 will still turn in respectable low light performance at ISO 3200.
 
spamrakuen said:
There is no such thing.

If you want fast glass; fixed primes without OIS (great and no expensive ones are; Pana 14mm f2.5 and 20mm f1.7, and Oly 45mm f1.8).
Click to expand...

Justin Richardson said:
lol, I was afraid of that, whats the most decent one with OIS cost?
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With the 14mm you DON'T NEED OIS!!!! It's wide enough you should be able to hold it pretty smoothly.

With the 20mm you SHOULDN'T need OIS. It is what I call "wide" normal and you should be able to handhold it steady enough. Practice bracing with elbows tucked against your side. Practice works.

With the Oly 45mm, in the close environment of many clubs you might not be able to back off much to use this one, but if you can you can find ways to "brace" yourself. I'm 73 and I can hold it steady enough for short "takes".
 
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Bruce Foreman said:
With the 14mm you DON'T NEED OIS!!!! It's wide enough you should be able to hold it pretty smoothly.

With the 20mm you SHOULDN'T need OIS. It is what I call "wide" normal and you should be able to handhold it steady enough. Practice bracing with elbows tucked against your side. Practice works.

With the Oly 45mm, in the close environment of many clubs you might not be able to back off much to use this one, but if you can you can find ways to "brace" yourself. I'm 73 and I can hold it steady enough for short "takes".
Click to expand...

Thank you, wil be looking into 14mm and the 20mm
 
spamrakuen said:
There is no such thing.

If you want fast glass; fixed primes without OIS (great and no expensive ones are; Pana 14mm f2.5 and 20mm f1.7, and Oly 45mm f1.8).
Click to expand...

One "fast" lens with OIS is the Panasonic 14-50 f2.8-3.5 for 4/3. Used for $549 at Amazon. Sometimes less on eBay. Yes, you would need the DMW-MA1 adapter.

Bruce was right, though - you won't need OIS with the 14/2.5 or 20/1.7.

Cheers,

Bill
 
I don't know how it would fit into your budget, but there's the Noktor 12mm f/1.6 and the Nokton 17mm f/0.95 - both of these would be wide enough and superfast, and at 12mm (24 on GH2), IOS is not as useful. Probably a bit too much money, especially on the 17mm.
 
flinty said:
Dont forget the Voigtlander Nokton 25mm f0.95 is 50mm in real terms so not that wide,there is the Pana pancake 14mm f 2.5 and 20mm f 1.7 . 28 and 40 35 mm equivalent_ they are cheap lenses to buy.
Click to expand...


It seems this is the more general opinion,and if there is lighting the 14mm will easily cope.Good cheap lenses.
 
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