GH2 GH2 Power - specs, tests, DIY

I have two chinese ones for 10eur and one panasonic one that you get for 100eur.
Buy 3 batteries or one used camera.
For THAT price difference I rather change my batteries more often (no indicator) but have 2-3 spares.
 
Sure but the issue is that when you are doing timelapses or any other continuous recording, you just can't afford to swap them...

Actually with the ownuser battery-grip you can.
One battery supplies the chip but does not get discharged very much while a second power source or battery supplies power and bridges the gap when you switch that second battery during a running video recording...

I just can't find the large version with the remote in Germany.
They only sell the small version here.
 
The problem with those cheap ebay ones is the questionable reliability, and likelihood of fire etc. I wouldn't touch them with a barge pole, personally, especially if it's going to be connected to a £740 camera!

Chinese manufacturers often overstate the actual mAh anyway, so it's often a false economy (or at least, less of the bargain that it seems).

I'ts good to be cautious, but not all Ebay batteries are bad. My experience with Chinese batteries started with my HV20 - they were all fine, but didn't last very long (but I probably didn't use them enough, large gaps between shoots). The ones I linked which I use with my GH2s have been rock solid so far - they also hold their charge over long periods of use. My hunch is they are better quality, but I haven't burned through them enough to be sure. But neither type ever actually 'burned'. YMMV.
 
Okay, I found the best solution for GH2 and frankly...many other camera model's power needs (since you can buy various UBEC voltages). MUCH cheaper then buying these $150+ power solutions. This works just fine for me, ive been field testing it for a few months without ANY issue. Also I live internationally, so most of my links are to international shippers.

I use a Lipo 14.4v 5000mah ($22.07) http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=15521
A UBEC ($5.27), which regulates ANY DC input (6V-23V) to 9V/2.5A http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=18785
Balance Charger ($11.18) - http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...3S_Balance_Charger_Direct_110_240v_Input.html

A 5000mah battery would probably give you continuous power for a few days... and these can be recharged in under 1hr!
On a side note. I AM NOT SURE that the UBEC can "up-convert", meaning, use any battery thats well OVER 9v. Hence, why i chose a 14.4v.

I used a nice "Tupperware" container (thick plastic with a clip on top), spray painted it black from the inside. Added a few key holes for cables and a strap to tie it down onto my shoulder rig.
I added a small window on the inside (not painted), so I can see the voltage left. These little devices run you about $3-5, and plug onto your battery pack. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=22693

9v is a nice range, since most of my gear all runs off of 9v. My LED light and Zoom both can handle 9v. I bought a few high end R/C power leads and made a few Y cables.
There is a 12v UBEC I may get so I can power a LCD monitor as well. Even 5v and 6v ones, for the day when you can use an iPad for HDMI monitoring :P

Another thought was to buy one of these el cheap-o camcorder chargers. http://www.amazon.com/BP-819-BP-827-Compatible-Battery-Charger/dp/B003CQBS8M/ref=pd_vtp_p_1
Then gut it, and stick a UBEC inside. Rewire it, so you can use these larger camcorder batts. and power your unit.
That way, you dont need to worry about the "DIY" look to powering your rig.
Ill post pictures if anyone is interested. But the links should give you an idea of a good setup.

Dai-Lon
 
That 14.4V LiPo is heavier then the camera. That UBEC brand DC regulator doesn't state it's efficiency. What regulator chip does it use?
Still looking for a step up chip instead. If 1Kg+lens for a camera was okay for me, I'd use a full frame instead of an m4/3 in the first place.
 
Pay for another "stock" panny battery then (you actually get pretty decent time off those for $50), cuz I promise you cant find lighter then the small UBEC module + ANY DC batt. 10v or higher (I'm also factoring in "simplicity" as im sure tons of people with electrical knowledge can make something similar... but $5 is hard to argue against)

You can use a lighter batt. 11.1v 2200 mAh is fine for hours of use too. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=14487
The UBEC will regulate the voltage, and the power is "conditioned" so you wont be getting inconsistent voltage to your camera. As for it's efficiency, I cannot comment on that.
However, these are relatively efficient devices. As power and weight are at a premium in small R/C planes and helicopters. So i would "imagine" they are pretty efficient.
I can use a "199g" 11.1v 2200mAh batt for probably 5+ hrs. (i have a cheap 11.1v 2200mAh "mystery" battery, and have yet to drain it on a day long gig.)
All costing me less then $20 (batt and UBEC)... as I said before, its an "option" thats cost effective and... does the job.

I chose/recommend the larger batt. because on my shoulder rig, i can spare the extra mAh "weight" as well power multiply devices for many hours.
But for something more portable, you can find very light 11.1v and even "saddle" style batteries good for glide cam setups.

I bike a lot, so i also have MORE then a few 18650 Batts around (3.7v 2500mAh) and bought a 3 batt. holder for like $2. giving me 11.1v and I can also power my setup using that.
The reason i say this, is because you can wire these in almost any configuration and distribute the weight as you see fit. Heck you could find a batt. grip that fits the GH2 and fit like 4 of these 18650 batts inside.

My suggestion revolves around the UBEC, its small, light, simple, and effective. Its up to you guys to figure out how you want to use it. Pretty much any power source with decent mAh and over 10v DC will power your GH2 (drill batteries, car batttiers, old camcorder batteries, etc..
My previous recommendations fit MY needs, because I can monitor my battery's power, its easy and fast to charge, and provides the most power/mAh/weight ratio - per $.

On a side note, I have bought 2 chinese batts. Yes, its a solution. But if your covering an event like I do... long, dependable, continuos power is a MUST.
I think the main theme of this thread is solid, long lasting power alternatives. My chinese batteries I wouldn't use them any longer then 30mins, then id have to screw off my quick release plate, and pop in a fresh new battery. If the 3rd party battery dies mid capture... YOU LOOSE that footage. Its not a professional option one can risk.
Your shooting needs, and your budget will sort out your requirements in the end i guess.
P.S. Both my Chinese batts have reduced capacity now (6 months of occasional use), not to mention unreliable mAh to begin with. I started with about 1 - 1.5hrs of average use, and now on average, get less then 45mins from my Chinese "1600 mAh" batts.
 
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Darnit.

I bought a dcc8 coupler since it was cheap enough to not warrant making my own adapter, but figured I could probably find one of my various AC/DC 9v adapters in the house that would fit it for running continously.

Turns out none of my adapters are the right size with the right voltage (one appears to fit, but doesn't make contact, its a bit too narrow).

I have a 2 hour shoot tomorrow night, so I quickly overnighted the following "universal" adapter with multiple tips from Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00068U44I/ref=pe_175190_21431760_cs_sce_dp_1

It arrived today. Guess what. Their "universe" doesn't include a tip my size. One is just too big and won't fit on, the next size down is the same as the other "too small" ones I found in my house. They make contact for a moment, but move the wire at all and it shuts off. What a waste of overnighted fees!

So, now the question is what to do for tomorrow night. I'm not a fan of Radio Shack's adaptaplug boxes (finding one with the correct voltage and amperage is a major pain in my experience), but I wonder if their tips are compatible...
Other option is to rip off a plug from another adapter that seems to fit and try to wire it up with some electrical tape- or perhaps wrap the "too small" plug with some wire so that it makes contact consistently. Both of those options make me nervous the more I think about them, though... :/

EDIT: Ok, I ended up ripping the odd-shapped plug off the dcc8 and splicing it together with one of the adapters for a 7" LCD I happened to have lying around (9v 2amps).
Will have to solder this thing eventually, but for now I twisted the ends together, wrapped each connection in electrical tape, and folded the wire back over itself, and wrapped THAT in electrical tape to hold it together. That way, if the wire gets tugged, the resistance won't go immediately to the connection. It should hold for tomorrow night at least. Actually, this seems more solid than the dcc8 does in general. :P
 
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These plugs usually come in 1mm increments.
Panasonic used a non-standard size that is 0.5mm smaller.
You can get these but only in well sorted shops.
I ended up adding a connector compatible with the plug used in the GH1,
so I can use the same power supply for both generations.
 
These plugs usually come in 1mm increments.
Panasonic used a non-standard size that is 0.5mm smaller.
You can get these but only in well sorted shops.
I ended up adding a connector compatible with the plug used in the GH1,
so I can use the same power supply for both generations.

I didn´t really read up, but your post caught my eye.
I found an ebay store, that offers compatlible adpater plugs, that bring you from a standard 12V plug to the DC coupler (Link) and also to the H4n (not topic related but anyways...)
 
My zoom H4 runs off 9v. However I also used a USB power source and it runs on that as well.
Not sure about the H4n though.
I've got a 9v 4mAh, which I have split 3 ways. I'm running my GH2, Zoom H4, and LED C-160s lights all from the 9v power source. Not issues thus far.
As for a common adaptor tips, I've found some from old network hubs and routers. I also see that many universal laptop power supplie - tips will work.
You could also consider cutting the end and adapting a more solid connector for the GH2 adaptor. Many R/C stores sell some very solid connectors.
 
Finally remembered to purchase a 9v UBEC so I could run my GH2 off of the rc lipos I already own. Works great but I need to solder in a voltage meter so I don't run the battery down too much.

photo(6).jpg
 
Sorry to revive an old thread, but I'm wondering if anyone has had any experience with adapters such as these:
http://www.amazon.com/Lenmar-DVDU92...343168588&sr=1-6&keywords=9v+external+battery

I was looking for those CCTV batteries that cheesycam recently wrote about, but they all ship from china and take weeks to arrive. I need an extended battery for a shoot coming up in 2 weeks, so I'd rather find something that will arrive sooner to test first.
 
Sorry to revive an old thread, but I'm wondering if anyone has had any experience with adapters such as these:
http://www.amazon.com/Lenmar-DVDU92...343168588&sr=1-6&keywords=9v+external+battery

I was looking for those CCTV batteries that cheesycam recently wrote about, but they all ship from china and take weeks to arrive. I need an extended battery for a shoot coming up in 2 weeks, so I'd rather find something that will arrive sooner to test first.

No experience with that one. It says it's a 9v power source, which might work. They're only 23Wh. That'll give you about the same amount of power as 2.5 Lumix batteries. Frankly, I'd get the switchable Tekkeon, which gives me 8 hours of record time with the LCD on. And you can use it to power devices with other voltages too, although only 1 at a time. (These are the voltages: 5V, 5.5V, 6V, 6.5V, 7.5V, 8.4V, 9V, 10V, 11V, 12V, 13V, 14V, 15V, 16V, 18V, and 19V)

In stock at B&H for $140: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/618847-REG/Tekkeon_MP3450I_myPower_ALL_Plus_MP3450i.html
 
No experience with that one. It says it's a 9v power source, which might work. They're only 23Wh. That'll give you about the same amount of power as 2.5 Lumix batteries. Frankly, I'd get the switchable Tekkeon, which gives me 8 hours of record time with the LCD on. And you can use it to power devices with other voltages too, although only 1 at a time. (These are the voltages: 5V, 5.5V, 6V, 6.5V, 7.5V, 8.4V, 9V, 10V, 11V, 12V, 13V, 14V, 15V, 16V, 18V, and 19V)

In stock at B&H for $140: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/618847-REG/Tekkeon_MP3450I_myPower_ALL_Plus_MP3450i.html

Nice!

But I was expecting to spend less than $80 on the batteries, especially compared to the $40 cctv ones were going to cost me. I don't mind paying more to get something in the US (since shipping from china isn't an option), but I'm really hoping there is an option for less than that Tekkeon!

Meanwhile, I found some other interesting options over on amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/15000mAh-External-Motorola-Portable-eletronics/dp/B0067XMPNY/ref=pd_ybh_14
or
http://www.amazon.com/EZOPower-High...000mAh-Blackberry/dp/B005XQSN9G/ref=pd_ybh_11

then again, there are the RC car ones like the guy used here:
https://vimeo.com/19591333
 
Nice!
then again, there are the RC car ones like the guy used here:
https://vimeo.com/19591333

That link is actually what inspired this whole thread. I used the same battery he used in my initial test (see the very first post in the thread for links). I got 8 hours. The battery eventually died and that's when I got the Tekkeon, which keeps on going and going.....

Again, don't know anything about the other batteries, but one possible drawback is the voltage setting is done via a push button. If you accidentally hit the button and up the voltage, you could fry the camera. The Tekkeon has dip switches on the bottom under a little rubber seal.

Still, for $60, they might be worth a try. If you do get one of them, I hope you'll report back what you learn.

Cheers!
 
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