GH-1 vs. t2i - bring it!!

ATL Media Group said:
Sweet... How do they compare in lowlight?
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I haven't done side by sides, but know with the DSLRs the lens is going to matter most when comparing it to a fixed lens camera. The 5D I used had a 24-70 2.8 L ($1400) and it was remarkable. Primes are the best bet if you cant spend more on the lens than you do for the camera. I have only used the GH1 with the kit and a 50mm 1.8 prime, the prime was great in low light...

I always try to add a little light if needed- best situation for all cameras. Something like a comer 1800 on a stand off to the side at least.
 
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alignment1 said:
I know to shot wit god lighting, I know this....but I want to shoot in a room with a 25W light and see NO LINES/BANDING/color NOISE etc.. Is this not possible??


But yes I do want better stills too--real timelapses
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I think you should really stick to god lighting for now. Devil lighting just is not in the cards at the moment.

But this sort of question is like asking 'can i shoot my ISO 64 film with a 25W light bulb, at 50 feet, and still get quality images'... The answer is no... you can't...

I don't know why people think that 'digital' makes certain problems non-problems. Sure, there's a ISO selector, sure it is easier to select than loading a different type of film, or have several cameras preloaded with different types of film, but essentially there is the fundamental characteristic of the sensor, whether it is film or a solid state array, that will limit what can be done.


I've shot the GH-1 at ISO 1600, in lighting that had about 1 footcandle incident on the subject... and guess what... It looks it... But then that was the look I was going for, low level survailence look...
 
Yes, and again see the video I posted earlier in the thread.

And when you say 25 watt I hope you're talking about a CFL...because a 25 watt incandescent is like a child's flashlight.
 
Ben_B said:
Yes, and again see the video I posted earlier in the thread.

And when you say 25 watt I hope you're talking about a CFL...because a 25 watt incandescent is like a child's flashlight.
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I appreciate you posting the vid Ben- very nice-thanks that's reassuring-- but unless I try this Burn-in deal, which I read about a while ago-but don't really want to do, I'm afraid I have a bum cam:violin:

Maybe Jan Crittenden can hook me up with a swap out for a new one?:happy:
 
alignment1 said:
I appreciate you posting the vid Ben- very nice-thanks that's reassuring-- but unless I try this Burn-in deal, which I read about a while ago-but don't really want to do, I'm afraid I have a bum cam:violin:

Maybe Jan Crittenden can hook me up with a swap out for a new one?:happy:
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The most important thing about avoiding FPN is just to not have white areas that are 3-stops under exposed or more.
 
The most important thing about avoiding FPN is just to not have white areas that are 3-stops under exposed or more.
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Absolutely. The FPN seems to magically disappear when you can keep your exposure at -2.5 or higher regardless of ISO. Also, there is the thought that high contrasts seem to help too.


alignment1 said:
Svart would you mind pointing me back in that direction with a link thanks
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Looking for it but I think it's over at another forum.

The meat and potatoes of it is that you plug your camera up to AC power, turn it on, and leave it on in a dark room for a couple days.

There are a couple theories to why this might work but nothing proven. One of which is that there is some kind of residue on the sensor from being produced that burns off over a period of time, but only if the internal temps in the camera are warm enough and it stays on long enough.

Again, some folks swear it works, some say it's BS and that folks are only learning to use their camera better. I think there is something to it since I would swear the color banding on my camera was very bad at first but seemed to go away over time, mostly after I burned it in.

I used mine during the day, and left it on overnight pointed at a dark wall.

So the worst case, your camera stays on for a couple days and your banding stays. Best case, your banding problem goes away.
 
Oh boy, I just can't imagine not shooting for a couple days- arghh. I thought I remember someone saying, (on one of those threads) about doing the burn-in with the lens off?

Thanks for the input, and looking just the same. I'll be able to scour the forums later on
cheers!
 
Have both now

Have both now

I am working with a GH-1 since last summer, mostly with the Kit lens (also have the 20mm pancake). Last week I did a quick side by side test with the T2 (or 550d here in Europe).
www.vimeo.com/10302377
Although the video quility of the GH-1 is better, I decided to buy the Canon, because there are a lot of lenses available (also for rent) and I had the chance to try a 10-22mm Canon lens which was pretty impressive. A 550d body plus this lens is cheaper than the Panasonic 7-14mm lens alone.
The GH-1 will still be my main DSLR camera, because of the better video quality and easier handling.
 
while i wait for this video to convert.....(really?) haha..if the video isn't ready to watch, no use linking it if you want quick responses.....to the fridge i go.

you bought the canon because there's more lenses available?...you know you can adapt nearly any lens you want onto the gh1, right?
 
I've convinced myself that pana are going to hit back, and it is going to be big time, so it is worth the wait.
My advice for whoever is looking for a second camera, is wait. I bought an NV-DA1 early in the 90s and got caught up in other things and never used it at all, later when i bought the DVX100A i ended up with 6 batteries and an extra two slot charger which came with the NV-DA1.
Although my GH1 doesn't have any part compatible with either the NV-DA1 or the DVX100A, i still believe that for those looking for a second camera to the GH1, wait! if you are much of a low budget privateer/hobby enthusiast.
 
robocut said:
I am working with a GH-1 since last summer, mostly with the Kit lens (also have the 20mm pancake). Last week I did a quick side by side test with the T2 (or 550d here in Europe).
www.vimeo.com/10302377
Although the video quility of the GH-1 is better, I decided to buy the Canon, because there are a lot of lenses available (also for rent) and I had the chance to try a 10-22mm Canon lens which was pretty impressive. A 550d body plus this lens is cheaper than the Panasonic 7-14mm lens alone.
The GH-1 will still be my main DSLR camera, because of the better video quality and easier handling.
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gh1 is on the left?
 
robocut said:
I am working with a GH-1 since last summer, mostly with the Kit lens (also have the 20mm pancake). Last week I did a quick side by side test with the T2 (or 550d here in Europe).
www.vimeo.com/10302377
Although the video quility of the GH-1 is better, I decided to buy the Canon, because there are a lot of lenses available (also for rent) and I had the chance to try a 10-22mm Canon lens which was pretty impressive. A 550d body plus this lens is cheaper than the Panasonic 7-14mm lens alone.
The GH-1 will still be my main DSLR camera, because of the better video quality and easier handling.
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If the GH1 is on the left, the Canon looks sharper, athough the blacks are crush.

Also not sure how fair it is to compare two bodies on two different lenses. Get the same manual lens for both and do side by sides with similar histograms
 
Psynema said:
If the GH1 is on the left, the Canon looks sharper, athough the blacks are crush.

Also not sure how fair it is to compare two bodies on two different lenses. Get the same manual lens for both and do side by sides with similar histograms
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agreed
 
Funny... for the being so much sharper, I couldn't read the text on the board on the footage on the right... The GH1 on the left had very clear text, and the chart in general looks better on the GH1..

But like has been said... Need to be on same lens, same settings to get a fair comparo.

I'm sure Bloom and Zacuto will have a better comparison on the 24th.
 
Plus, it's easy to add contrast and sharpness to the GH1. What movie mode was the GH1 in? I probably wouldn't be happy with the Canon if that is how bad the aliasing is on all shots.

Randy
 
this just shows how subject all of these camera debates are. just looking and never knowing which camera is which, the left image just trumps the one on the right. it's just, to me, the image on the right is bland, like someone added a sharpening filter. tooo much contrast. skin tone was awful....however, it's still pretty great camera for the price. i'd just never buy it for filmmaking. maybe a skate video or a birthday party.
 
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