FX3/FX30: FX30.. is this the answer!

cyvideo said:
Sorry MM. One correction.

You say the FX6 is HD only with PZ lenses. That is incorrect as you have the full frame 28-135 mm F4 with servo zoom and stabilisation. And if you are on a boom I doubt that shallow DOF and F/2.8 is a major prerequisite.

And I have to ask why you need all the FIZ motors etc?

If you have Sony's wider FE PZ 16-35mm f/4 G and Sony's FE 28-135mm f/4 G PZ OSS you can control everything from your jib handle

Chris Young
Click to expand...

Thank you for taking time to respond. This is good info. Im well into checking out USB now :)

The rental house and (sony Basingstoke) advised not usb but,, usb->cat5->router->cat5-.dongle-> ipad
(this provides theoretical multicams from one ipad)

This setup was not stable and fkd my last shoot somewhat

Use of Sony camera->usb->ipad looks much less likely to break.

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As for zoom lenses im well aware of the 28-135 and consider 24 to be what is needed at the start of this type of zoom.

(2/3 4.7mm is 18mm full frame?)

Im aware of the 16-35 but there is no swapping and its too short to isolate an artist.

(16-) 35 - cant isolate an artist.
28-(135) cant show the scene


So sony dont offer a full frame PZ lens of a useful range in my opinion

Franky the pz 16-50 ($150) is more useful (on S35) as you correctly suggest.. skinny iris is not the primary win for jibbish work.

I basically (for a rock band) want to show the stage.. (FF24 or ideally 20) and pop in on one artist or one crowd memeber (FF70 or ideally135)

Sony make a 20-70 non PZ, so the best option is to FIZ that?

So it looks like..
FS6, USB, app, fiz, 20-70 could be a sensible option.


For your enjoyment we last week I shot a jib shoot and we used a 720p camera from 2005, (directors choice!) and a fiz could have been useful. The vid has 33k views in 24 hours.
 
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To continue on the FIz..

sony 28-135pz = some thousands, not actually wide.
sony 24-105/4G + nucleaus one motor = about the same or less cash but actually almost wide enough
20-70 sony + nucleus motor = actually good coverage!

nucleus one motor works on ..
24-105 sony
20-70 sony
panazonic HVX
Any 'cine or stills' glass director might want

My next bookinh.. is C500 :)

S
 
morgan_moore said:
To continue on the FIz..

sony 28-135pz = some thousands, not actually wide.
sony 24-105/4G + nucleaus one motor = about the same or less cash but actually almost wide enough
20-70 sony + nucleus motor = actually good coverage!

nucleus one motor works on ..
24-105 sony
20-70 sony
panazonic HVX
Any 'cine or stills' glass director might want

My next bookinh.. is C500 :)

S
Click to expand...
My fallback in cases where I need more width and length in a zoom for jib or crane work is to go back to the solution I used back in the FS7 days. B4 lenses with remote control of focus, iris and zoom with the appropriate rear controls. A setup I also used in helicopter shoots. The solution outlined in this video has delivered 4K and HD material for commercial and broadcast clients who have loved the results. Not a complaint, in fact the opposite.

Also with the FX6 don't forget in 4K you have CIZ which is quite amazing in its quality. This can in HD double the lens length in HD and multiply your image by 1.5 x in 4k. A B4 4.5 x 11 can deliver you a wide zoom ranging from FF equivalent of 17.5 mm to 193 mm. A very useful range.

Chris Young

Watch in 4K if you can.

Another solution
 
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morgan_moore said:
OK so I did a shoot with the FX6, mounted on my car. for the bbc.

-the app control did not work in a solid manner after testing by a reliable rental house (not shonky me)
-examine the PZ lenses that sony make.. they are mainly 35 coverage.. a mode which the FX6 works in HD only.
(ok there is the pz28mm.. but I want to start mny zoom at 20 or 24 - Id like a 24-70 the most basic coverage lens ever made)

In terms of handheld run and gunning with no IS it is 'janky shtt' IS just smooths the word for shoulder doco shoots.

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Click to expand...

I have been using the Sony app since it was called Content Browser Mobile long ago (it has been called Monitor and Control App for several years now). In fact, here is an old vlog from my YouTube channel about using it with the FX6. You can see, it worked even back then for me. But they have drastically improved the video monitoring quality and got latency to almost nothing. It even has false color!

I will say, it is a convoluted process, setting your FX6 to AP (Access Point) mode in the network settings, entering a password using the joystick on the FX6 and so on. Takes about 5 minutes or so to go through and do it all, but once you have done it, you will never have to do it again! Your phone will just sense the wireless network put out by your FX6 and automatically connect to it whenever you start up ‘Monitors and Control’ app. If you do it right the first time, the app is rock solid. I have never had a single issue with it after I figured out how to connect my iPhone to the FX6’s wireless network output. And you can literally control every single setting on your FX6 remotely. Iris, shutter, white balance, ND (control the variable ND or set it to auto). You can even tap on your iPhone’s screen where you want it to focus and if you set the focus transition slow enough, you can pull off ‘rack focuses’ by tapping between objects on your iPhone or iPad’s screen. And finally, you can even zoom from the app if you are using a power zoom lens and even if not you can use the clear image zoom to zoom from the app a bit.

Power Zoom? Yeah the 28-135 is just about the only real full frame power zoom. There is also a 16-35 PZ, but that won’t give you much reach. Might have to rig up a zoom motor if you want a different power zoom. There is a solid rumor that a 28-135 F2.8 PZ lens is in production. Curious if Sony will also try to replicate the fantastic Canon 24-105 F2.8 power zoom lens. Also remember that on ANY lens you get, you do get a bit of a ‘power zoom’ by virtue of Sony’s clear image zoom which uses the zoom rockers on the FX6 side handle and top handle (as well as being controllable from the app.) It is actually really good, it’s not just a normal digital zoom. It’s honestly almost indistinguishable from an optical zoom.


As far as IS, the Sony 24-105 F4 has good IS built into the lens. That with a zoom motor might be the ticket for you.

On the other hand, if you want an existing power zoom, your best bet might be the Canon C80 with the 24-105 F2.8 zoom lens.
Either one of the above is going to be the closest you will get right now to what you want.

As an aside, depending on how much control you want there is always the FR7 which is the PTZ version of the FX6. You would be limited to their power zooms….for events this works great with a 16-35 on one and a 28-135 on the second.
 
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alaskacameradude said:
I have been using the Sony app since it was called Content Browser Mobile long ago (it has been called Monitor and Control App for several years now). In fact, here is an old vlog from my YouTube channel about using it with the FX6. You can see, it worked even back then for me. But they have drastically improved the video monitoring quality and got latency to almost nothing. It even has false color!

I will say, it is a convoluted process, setting your FX6 to AP (Access Point) mode in the network settings, entering a password using the joystick on the FX6 and so on. Takes about 5 minutes or so to go through and do it all, but once you have done it, you will never have to do it again! Your phone will just sense the wireless network put out by your FX6 and automatically connect to it whenever you start up ‘Monitors and Control’ app. If you do it right the first time, the app is rock solid. I have never had a single issue with it after I figured out how to connect my iPhone to the FX6’s wireless network output. And you can literally control every single setting on your FX6 remotely. Iris, shutter, white balance, ND (control the variable ND or set it to auto). You can even tap on your iPhone’s screen where you want it to focus and if you set the focus transition slow enough, you can pull off ‘rack focuses’ by tapping between objects on your iPhone or iPad’s screen. And finally, you can even zoom from the app if you are using a power zoom lens and even if not you can use the clear image zoom to zoom from the app a bit.

Power Zoom? Yeah the 28-135 is just about the only real full frame power zoom. There is also a 16-35 PZ, but that won’t give you much reach. Might have to rig up a zoom motor if you want a different power zoom. There is a solid rumor that a 28-135 F2.8 PZ lens is in production. Curious if Sony will also try to replicate the fantastic Canon 24-105 F2.8 power zoom lens. Also remember that on ANY lens you get, you do get a bit of a ‘power zoom’ by virtue of Sony’s clear image zoom which uses the zoom rockers on the FX6 side handle and top handle (as well as being controllable from the app.) It is actually really good, it’s not just a normal digital zoom. It’s honestly almost indistinguishable from an optical zoom.


As far as IS, the Sony 24-105 F4 has good IS built into the lens. That with a zoom motor might be the ticket for you.

On the other hand, if you want an existing power zoom, your best bet might be the Canon C80 with the 24-105 F2.8 zoom lens.
Either one of the above is going to be the closest you will get right now to what you want.

As an aside, depending on how much control you want there is always the FR7 which is the PTZ version of the FX6. You would be limited to their power zooms….for events this works great with a 16-35 on one and a 28-135 on the second.
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Yes, Alaska dude. I would have to concur with virtually everything you have outlined. The only proviso I would add is I prefer to use the wired USB-C connection in heavily congested Wi-Fi locations. Not that I have had an issue with the Wi-Fi in any location when I have used it.

Chris Young
 
Incidentally what I suggested using a B4 with a 2 x to cover S35 or even FF is basically what Canon have done with their new S35 CINE-SERVO 11-55mm T2.95-3.95 Lens.

Chris Young

 
Chris ..

No mention of how canon control that lens.. or if the 1.5x can be remotely engaged.

Juat more evidence that the 'consumer' 24-105 2.8 and zoom solution are going the way of the 18-80 canon ef

And the app is not ready for the real world

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Re your 2/3 lens setup, it is manuial focus.. but more evidence that making a work ready setup need to be a 'cludge' and a very nice one :)

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Seems like USB and a fiz motor hold good hope,

Did I manetion that my R6 is working well over USB and im gonna put in some hours with that! Im trying the R80 next week.

S
 
MM.

You mentioned an FX2 in your original post. Look, just another thought to throw out there.

I don't really care how I obtain my 4K images. Be it by FF or S35 / APSC crop. As long as I can capture good clean 4K 50p I'm happy.

With your FX2 / A7IV and the new A7V your crop mode is downsampled from 4.6MP Giving you a much nicer image in 4K that any 1:1 sampling from a sensor. Add to that the dynamic range of these three particular models, and you can deliver stunning looking 4K images in crop mode.

Now don't laugh. Remember Sony's cheap and cheerful G series lens. The 18-105 mm, parfocal, F/4.0 constant aperture, stabilised, internal (no getting longer) 5.8 x servo zoom?

With the latest firmware on that lens it works extremely well in all AF modes with the above cameras. Anywhere from smooth and lazy to snappy, dependent on your camera AF settings.

So if you don't mind acquiring your images in S35/APSC mode that lens functions beautifully on a jib or gimbal because of it size and weight. I've mixed it with my S35 18-110 and the FF 28-135 on shoots and in post we really cannot pick any difference between them. You would have crawl through and pixel peep your footage to try and pick any difference. Many with younger more critical eyes than I have done so and found nothing to comment on.

To expand the flexibility of these lenses, had three of them at one time, I've often used them with Century Optics' 0.7 x HDV full zoom through 72 mm thread wide converter. This converter has delivered a very useful 12.6 mm to 73 mm zoom range. That can of course be pushed out to 109 mm using the 4K Clear Image Zoom on the three cameras listed. If talking in FF terms that's a very useful small light stabilised servo 18.9 mm to 109 mm zoom lens.

Additionally, these 18-105 mm lenses have the additional 'Active' stabilisation mode which combined with the camera body's IBIS can give you amazingly steady almost gimbal-like results.

This lens CANNOT be controlled by Sony's Moitor and Control App on the 'A' series camera bodies. Instead, you have to use Sony's, also free, Creators App. This gives you basically the same controls over your A series cameras as the Monitor and Control App does on the 'Cine' styled cameras.

Again, like the USB-C option you can use a 5-meter long Mini-USB cable. Use that with one of Sony's Mini-USB Servo Zoom, Stop / Start controllers like the RM-VPR 1 and away you go. I've used this combo 18-105 / 0.7 WA combo in cars, trucks and in the cab of a tower crane way above the city. All worked beautifully.

What's nice a bout this combo is the 18-105 is pretty cheap new, cheap as chips used and the Century 0.7 or even a Sony Z1's 0,7 WA can be had pretty cheap on eBay. I paid $50 each for the last two.

Just another option to consider, maybe!?

Chris Young
 

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I think that is full circle .. that the 18-105 f4 pz and a small (fx2, fx30) sony could indeed be a great solution.

This just leaves the ND problem.

As I was driving to test the FX30 it was a particularly sunny morning with very deep shadows as the leaves are sprouting on the the UK trees right now. And what came to me was 'i can buy a zoom controller, but I cant buy an ND controller'

This puts ND as 'essential' on the camera spec (C80, fx6)

The only other consideration (which I must consider with testing) is to put a 3 or 4 nd and 'cludge' the shooting by rampimg ISO in the shade and or going for a high shutter in the very bright.

Both things that I do when shooting dirty handheld on my R6i :)

S
 
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morgan_moore said:
'i can buy a zoom controller, but I cant buy an ND controller'
Click to expand...
I’ve never seen one in the wild, but was interested in Nisi’s vari ND filter with rod mount:

nisifilters.com.au

NiSi Cinema C5 Matte Box Cinema Kit (Matte Box, VND 1-5 Stops, Rotating PL, 4 Stop ND, Black Mist 1/8, Adaptors and Pouch)

Buy NiSi Cinema C5 Matte Box Cinema Kit (Matte Box, VND 1-5 Stops, Rotating PL, 4 Stop ND, Black Mist 1/8, Adaptors and Pouch) direct from the official NiSi Filters Australia store. Free shipping on orders over $69.
nisifilters.com.au nisifilters.com.au

One of the product shots shows it with a nucleus motor mounted. They say 1-9 stops, which is through a combination of 1-5 vari and a solid 4 stop filter.

A nano wheel controlling 1-5 stops could be handy?
 
the link doesnt work for me - ill check it later.

but in general owning a 400 2.8 and 50-300, 14/2.8 -and a bunch of telescoping poor mans zooms I know that matte boxes are not functioning univerally like an internal ND.
 
Jase said:
There's this which I ordered. Haven't received it yet but supposedly soon. https://www.newsshooter.com/2025/12/17/benro-ne1-electronic-nd-filter-kit/

Click to expand...

Thanks for this. Am I completely off the map or are the designers just folk that never did a job?

1) automatic .. Ive never used auto anything as a light car/teeshirt etc will innapropriately darken the image.

2) blue tooth.. ive never used or had reliability from bluetooth anything

3) no control mechanism that will offer control from the botom of a jib (etc)

4) above mentioned challenges of front based filter systems (unless you buy the 24-105 canon that doesnt trombone)
 
All I can say is that I was skeptical at first, in part because of how reliable it would be but also because a lot of what I'm doing is run and gun doc work and for that I prefer to go as light as possible. I don't like changing ND filters when I'm flying around but maybe this will be more cumbersome. Once I do get it, I'll share my thoughts here.
 
morgan_moore said:
I think that is full circle .. that the 18-105 f4 pz and a small (fx2, fx30) sony could indeed be a great solution.

This just leaves the ND problem.

As I was driving to test the FX30 it was a particularly sunny morning with very deep shadows as the leaves are sprouting on the the UK trees right now. And what came to me was 'i can buy a zoom controller, but I cant buy an ND controller'

This puts ND as 'essential' on the camera spec (C80, fx6)

The only other consideration (which I must consider with testing) is to put a 3 or 4 nd and 'cludge' the shooting by rampimg ISO in the shade and or going for a high shutter in the very bright.

Both things that I do when shooting dirty handheld on my R6i :)

S
Click to expand...
I haven't bothered to chase down the post, but a number of years back I posted my solution to having a remote control variable ND on an A7 for virtually any lens you use. Back then I needed a remote controlled ND on my 28-135 and 18-110 mm zooms. I have since used this solution on various lenses using the 95 mm Vari NDs and step-up rings on lenses including 62, 72, 77 and 85 mm lenses.

This is easily achieved using either a Wi-Fi or cable controlled solution. My Wi-Fi solution is using one of PD Air's wireless controllers. And if you want to avoid Wi-Fi use a cheap cable controlled solution with 0.8 MOD gears. The cable power option shown comes with 3 different sized 0.8 MOD gears. Both options offer a very smooth control of the ND. In my case I'm using Freewell Vari NDs. The image below shows from L-R. Pic #1 is the 95 mm Freewell 5 stop Vari ND on the 28-135 with a 0.8 MOD adjustable gear ring that is driven by the PD Air Wireless FIZ motor. Pic #2 shows the PD Air rotary wireless controller on the left side 15 mm rail under the 28-135 lens. This allows very smooth ND adjustment without having to grab the lens. Pic #3 shows the cable driven / powered solution. If you need extra length on the control cables it uses standard 5.5 mm power cables and the FIZ motor cable just uses a 3.5 mm stereo extension cable. The motor has heaps of torque capable of driving pretty heavy zoom rings if used in that sort of scenario.

EDIT. Forgot to mention. Back when I compared the FX30 with the A7iv in lower light scenarios it took me about 60 seconds to work out which one I would end up with. Having the flexibility of FF and Crop in one body with a mechanical shutter and able to use the camera as a stills camera put me right into the A7iv camp. If going through that again today that could include the FX2. But I'm now debating the jump to the A7V. Decisions, decisions!

Chris Young
 

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Chris - thanks for input.

I always though PD were a china off brand but it seems maybe they have support in London .. which is appealling to me

thanks

SMM
 
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