Fuji X-T3 released

Unfortunately I could NOT get it to work. I can get the XT-3 to output the timecode as I can see it in the Ninja V. However, there is nothing on MixPre. Also, I could not get the HDMI start/stop to work with MixPre that works fine with Ninja V.

Yeah, no luck here either. Tried a bunch of different configurations today. Going to try a new hdmi cable, but not hopeful.

Will call Sound Devices tomorrow, see if i can get any help. The user manual is pretty lean. I could have missed something.

Settings i primarily messed with...

Fuji X-T3
- hmdi timecode out
- hmdi trigger on/off
- timecode display on/off (why not)
- 4K out vs HD out

SD Mixpre3:
- hdmi timecode in
- hdmi trigger
- basic mode vs advanced mode

And a couple other nonsense things. One thing i couldn’t try was a more powerful battery pack. I was running 4 high draw Energizer AA’s. Some features, like the hdmi port only working with a high enough power source.
 
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Sound devices got back same day via email. Very detailed response. Unfortunately, still no results.
 
I think Atomos Sumo might have had issues with the hdmi tc triggering protocol.

Sound Devices' tech was on the same wavelength there. They recommended turning off "rec trigger" and keeping timecode out in "rec run" on the Fuji. And on the mixpre turning off rec trigger and setting the timcode input to "hdmi".

Email was as follows:

"I believe Fuji cameras outputs Rec Triggers using the Atomos Open Protocol which is not compatible to do Rec Triggers with the MixPre series.

There may still be a way to get a Fuji camera to work with the MixPre if the camera has “Rec Run”.

If you are able to change the Fuji to “Rec Run” then you would be able to set the MixPre3 to record when receives running timecode on HDMI. Here are the settings to change on the MixPre series:

- Go to (Menu>Timecode and set to “HDMI TC In”)
- Go to (Menu>Record>Rec Trigger and set to “Timecode”)

It may also depend on which HDMI cable you are using. Sometimes the coiled cable that comes with Atomos products do not work to send Timecode to the MixPre devices."
 
Sound Devices' tech was on the same wavelength there. They recommended turning off "rec trigger" and keeping timecode out in "rec run" on the Fuji. And on the mixpre turning off rec trigger and setting the timcode input to "hdmi".

Email was as follows:

"I believe Fuji cameras outputs Rec Triggers using the Atomos Open Protocol which is not compatible to do Rec Triggers with the MixPre series.

There may still be a way to get a Fuji camera to work with the MixPre if the camera has “Rec Run”.

If you are able to change the Fuji to “Rec Run” then you would be able to set the MixPre3 to record when receives running timecode on HDMI. Here are the settings to change on the MixPre series:

- Go to (Menu>Timecode and set to “HDMI TC In”)
- Go to (Menu>Record>Rec Trigger and set to “Timecode”)

It may also depend on which HDMI cable you are using. Sometimes the coiled cable that comes with Atomos products do not work to send Timecode to the MixPre devices."

Hopefully SD and Fuji will work together on this. Both companies seem to be willing to add features to their hardware, and I’d bet there are a lot of us who use the Fuji/MixPre combo.
 
Hopefully SD and Fuji will work together on this. Both companies seem to be willing to add features to their hardware, and I’d bet there are a lot of us who use the Fuji/MixPre combo.

If you have time, send in a request to their support. Perhaps multiple requests will spur on an update. In the meantime, i will search for a solution.
 
The way I got around this with the XT-3 and SD MixPre3 was to use Tentacle Sync Es, problem solved. Although you still have to hit record separately.
 
From an image making stand point, it is nice that consumer/prosumer grade cameras are finally producing lovely video. No more excessive macro blocking and garish highlights. Just a good 2mb to 8mb video. It is kind of what we have been asking for for since the 5dmkii. That was about a decade? The last few years has been good as most cameras coming to market look good. That is the first time since the HD era. Only took 15years!

The X-T3 is awesome. Not fun for pro use, imho, but a very fine home camera or for savvy reporters that need to shoot video and photos but want better than iphone quality.

Fuji has done an amazing job at finding a new color science niche in the digital market. Reds are more muted in the eterna/cinema look. While blues look very natural.
 
The way I got around this with the XT-3 and SD MixPre3 was to use Tentacle Sync Es, problem solved. Although you still have to hit record separately.

Great solution. Seems at least post will be a happier world having matching timecode.

In the field I will forget to push record at some point.
 
From an image making stand point, it is nice that consumer/prosumer grade cameras are finally producing lovely video. No more excessive macro blocking and garish highlights. Just a good 2mb to 8mb video. It is kind of what we have been asking for for since the 5dmkii. That was about a decade? The last few years has been good as most cameras coming to market look good. That is the first time since the HD era. Only took 15years!

The X-T3 is awesome. Not fun for pro use, imho, but a very fine home camera or for savvy reporters that need to shoot video and photos but want better than iphone quality.

Fuji has done an amazing job at finding a new color science niche in the digital market. Reds are more muted in the eterna/cinema look. While blues look very natural.

The X-T3's capacity to retain highlights and color information, especially on faces is exceptional. Frankly I am cutting with an Alexa and I see little to no difference in a controlled circumstance. I can absolutely correct the two to match.
 
Great solution. Seems at least post will be a happier world having matching timecode.

In the field I will forget to push record at some point.

I agree, I've even done this shooting solo with my C200, I missed the first 2/3 of a great interview that I still regret.
Tough to remember to do everything when you are interviewer, DP, sound mixer and director. I am going to just make a mental checklist for everytime I hit record.
 
Anyone else test the sharpness levels for recording in-camera? I just did, very unscientifically, and I was surprised to find the lowest setting (-4) is still very sharp and I'm thinking may be better for filming people. Going to do more testing with a face and see. As of today I have the 56mm 1.2 and will test with that along with the 35mm 1.4.
 
Anyone else test the sharpness levels for recording in-camera? I just did, very unscientifically, and I was surprised to find the lowest setting (-4) is still very sharp and I'm thinking may be better for filming people. Going to do more testing with a face and see. As of today I have the 56mm 1.2 and will test with that along with the 35mm 1.4.

-4 is the most natural looking, any other values just add edge halo.
 
-4 is the most natural looking, any other values just add edge halo.

That's my initial thought as well. I'm shocked I haven't noticed until today, but then again I actually have found myself using the X-T3 for stills more than video.
 
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The X-T3 would be a bit more video friendly if the shutter speed dial allowed B or bulb to be 180degree shutter speed in video mode.
 
The X-T3 would be a bit more video friendly if the shutter speed dial allowed B or bulb to be 180degree shutter speed in video mode.

When movie silent control is enabled (preferred method for hybrid shooters), most physical controls including shutter dial are disabled completely.
 
When movie silent control is enabled (preferred method for hybrid shooters), most physical controls including shutter dial are disabled completely.

That is fine for tripod or gimbal work, but handheld and shoulder, i prefer dials. I just think Fuji has gone through a lot of trouble to make their camera a good hybrid and possibly miss some of the more obvious things.

BTW, the thumbwheels on the right hand side do change shutter and aperture manually. So that is good enough. They don’t have to fix anything really. The shutter speed dial works in video mode, it just doesn’t have all of the 180degree shutter speed rates, like 1/48, 1/50, 1/120 etc. so, there is still a reliance on the gui.
 
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I look at it this way, with a vintage lens, you can dial in all of the primary settings without looking at any on screen info. There is a beauty to that. They definitely recognize their stills buyers would want that. But that didn’t translate into the video side. The video side is far more techy and gui driven. Would be really fun to have a vintage feel to the video side, as well. It would bring the charm of the stills side to the video side. Plus, it would be absolutely awesome shooting with a clean screen and a small red dot, rather than all the info.
 
I have my focus assist on my X-T3 (magnification) assigned to the focus ring and "disp. back" to go back to regular view. Does anyone have a better suggestion for this assignment? I find it awkward to press the "disp. back" when I'm going handheld and on occasion have even forgotten to turn it off while I was rolling ;)
 
All fears of the H.265 HD 10bit playback and editing are completely overturned for me. I am realizing that HD H.265 10bit is nothing for even entry level modern desktops. So, i am going to have to test some 4k tomorrow.
 
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